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  • #1

    About pulling power tubes to lower power...

    Does this work in class A operation, or is this modification exclusive to class AB amps?

    Does this require re-biasing?

    I do know this doubles the amp's impedence.
    Originally posted by Pink Unicorn Horsey
    Dumbness on massive idiocy with the stupid dumb-dumbnity of ridiculous WTFation in the dumbass of you-idiot.
    Originally posted by Sosomething
    "How do I improve the tone of my ThrasherKidzz-O-Blaster combo??"

    The answer is always "burn it, dumbass."
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

    Operating class doesn't matter but cathode biased amps (e.g., Vox) need to be modded to safely pull power tubes.
    Originally posted by LesStrat
    make sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.
    My Music

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    • #3
      Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

      True class A amps only have one power tube, no?
      Defender of the Sonic faith.

      Gibson SG Faded

      Carvin Vintage 16 amp

      http://www.lp.org

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      • #4
        Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

        Originally posted by callous_frigid_chill
        True class A amps only have one power tube, no?
        Though all single-ended amps are true Class A, there are amps such as the THD Bivalve that have >1 power tube and operate in Class A.
        Originally posted by LesStrat
        make sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.
        My Music

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        • #5
          Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

          Originally posted by aleclee
          Operating class doesn't matter but cathode biased amps (e.g., Vox) need to be modded to safely pull power tubes.
          Errr...I don't have a clue how you would be able to tell...
          Originally posted by Pink Unicorn Horsey
          Dumbness on massive idiocy with the stupid dumb-dumbnity of ridiculous WTFation in the dumbass of you-idiot.
          Originally posted by Sosomething
          "How do I improve the tone of my ThrasherKidzz-O-Blaster combo??"

          The answer is always "burn it, dumbass."

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

            Originally posted by korovamilkdud
            Errr...I don't have a clue how you would be able to tell...
            Most amps that are advertised as Class A are cathode biased . . . and do not actually run in Class A.
            Originally posted by LesStrat
            make sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.
            My Music

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            • #7
              Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

              whats the difference between class A & class B anyways?
              Originally posted by gibson175
              metal zones are for pussies.

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              • #8
                Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

                it's A and AB push pull.

                I think it has something to do with the way that the tubes 'share the load' by pushing and pulling, as a result also having an idle current.

                True class A doesnt 'push or pull', and it doesn't idle, it's always running steady. (correct me if i'm wrong this is all from foggy website reading memory...)
                2004 50th Anniversary Deluxe American Strat, SETH-N BRIDGE, ANT 2 SURFER MIDDLE, ANT 2 DLX MINI HUM NECK

                280K RS guitarworks volume pot, 250k cts tone pots, .047uf paper in oil Jensen aluminum capacitor, running D'addario Chromes 13's with wound g > Analogman Orange Juicer>Acoustic 200H Bass head> Alesis Picoverb> unknown 12'' JBL Orange car speaker

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                • #9
                  Re: About pulling power tubes to lower power...

                  In Class A the powerrrr tube(s) amplify the both sides of the signal, both the crest and the trough of the wave. In Class B one tube (or pair) amplifies the crest, or top half of the wave, and the other tube (or pair) amplifies the bottom half or trough of the wave. This is much more efficient from a power production perspective, but sounds more harsh, with a distortion occurring at the "cross over point" between the top and bottom 1/2 of the wave. In Class A/B each tube (or pair) amplifies a small portion of the other half of the wave. This creates a smoother more class A type tone. On a fixed bias amp, the hotter the bias is set the more each tube shares a portion of the other 1/2 of the signal wave. The colder the bias is set the less so, or more pure class B. IIRC, Class A/B I is less Class A, and more Class B, than Class A/BII when properly biased. Cathode Bias usually allows closer to class A operation by a Class A/B amp than fixed bias. Most Fender and all Marshall tube models are Class A/BII

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