Neck preferences, but width, neck thickness and profile, fret size...

[dystrust]

I have pretty big hands, so narrow nut width and shallow profiles are both a no-go; I'm fine with either 1 11/16 or the vintage Fender 1.650". For a backshape, I like either a C or soft V on the thicker side, around .900" to 1" at the first fret is great. In terms of straight radii I can't stand a 7.25", but can play anything 9.5" or flatter. My ideal radius is in the 10-12" range because I don't shred while I still do like to play chords near the nut.

I haven't been able to try a 7.25-9.5" compound radius, but I imagine I'd really like it. longcat's Strat has a 7.25" radius and it's great for chords, I just can't stand to play lead on it. My Tele has a 9.5" radius which is flat enough that bends don't bother me too much higher up the fretboard. My Charvels are 12-16" compound radius and may be a hair flatter than I prefer near the nut. Put me down as yet another that likes BIG stainless fret wire, my personal favorite being Jescar 57110-S.

[Clint 55]

Fatback, 11" radius, 1 11/16" nut, 6100 SS frets. Just feels epic to me. Can deal with different neck profiles or nut widths but I has to have 11" radius and 6100 SS frets.

[PFDarkside]

5 months later I haven’t made a decision. What to do! I’m thinking 1-5/8” Wolfgang or SRV, 10-16”, SS6150 frets.


Also, fatback and boat neck guys, 1”? Do standard Fender necks make you cringe?

[ehdwuld]

I really like the necks on my Epi florentine semi hollow LP and my RG wizard ii necks
the wizard iii got wider

the Florentine has a 60's slim C with a 42 mm nut
the RG wizard II is well their slim D shape with a 42 mm nut

Warmoth has the 42 mm nut (1,650 inches I think )

the Epi is 12 radius
and the RG has almost 17 inch

its kinda flat and flatter
they feel the same to me

my Gibson has a thick Slim 60's D with a 43 mm nut
as do both my custom Ehdwuld Builds ( those dang Chinese)

thin narrow and flat

Jerry had some super tiny frets on his LP Signature LP and It was awesome to play
if I get a those tiny mystery frets they will be stainless

but with tiny frets you really dont have much room to level and dress
which according to Warmoth, they dont do

[Top-L]

The most important thing about a neck is the neck joint.

If it's not an aanj or set neck, then might as well no even build it. I still see square heel diy jobs.

Standard floyd nut width.
Medium jumbo or narrow jumbo. In perfect world, med jumbo with 17+ scalloped.

14" radius to match floyd.
if not graphite reinforced then get a 5 pc neck.
Rosewood if you can get it, otherwise ebony, but ask to see the piece.
Bound. Abalone inlays.
standard nickel silver grey's, easier to work.
Medium thickness. C profile.


Headstock is tricky. Id just go with banana or hockey stick.

[dystrust]

5 months later I haven’t made a decision. What to do! I’m thinking 1-5/8” Wolfgang or SRV, 10-16”, SS6150 frets.


Also, fatback and boat neck guys, 1”? Do standard Fender necks make you cringe?

Generally no, but it depends on the neck and maybe how I play the guitar in question?

My Partscaster Tele has a MIM Blacktop neck which I believe is around .830-.850" at the 1st fret with a 1.65" nut, 9.5" radius, and 22 medium jumbo frets. This neck is about as thin as I can really get along with, those super skinny necks on some MIJ Fenders just aren't for me. Honestly when it comes to typical Fender necks, 7.25" radius bugs me more than the back shape on most of them. I also really dislike Gibson's 60s-style slim taper neck, and most Ibanez necks, while I own 3 mid-80s MIJ Charvels.

[Mincer]

I am sort of in the same boat. But every few days the picture is a little clearer. I know what kind of neck and contour I am getting...I am still fuzzy on the color of the body. I obviously am not ordering the body, at least, until what I want comes in sharper focus.
Also, note that Warmoth is way behind on orders due to the pandemic, and it might be months to get any custom work (my stuff is gonna be custom).

[Top-L]

I am sort of in the same boat. But every few days the picture is a little clearer. I know what kind of neck and contour I am getting...I am still fuzzy on the color of the body. I obviously am not ordering the body, at least, until what I want comes in sharper focus.
Also, note that Warmoth is way behind on orders due to the pandemic, and it might be months to get any custom work (my stuff is gonna be custom).

Tangerine color superstrat with a maple neck, H-H, reverse headstock.

Thats what I'd do.

[ErikH]

5 months later I haven’t made a decision. What to do! I’m thinking 1-5/8” Wolfgang or SRV, 10-16”, SS6150 frets.


Also, fatback and boat neck guys, 1”? Do standard Fender necks make you cringe?

Nope. I can get along with standard Fender necks just fine. It's about the shoulder at that point. Wizard necks and even the later 80's Kramer necks are too thin for me (flat back with little side shoulder). Keep it a C and I'm good. Gibson's Slim 60's profile is even fine. The SRV neck is sweet as I've played some Fender SRV Strats and the Wolfgang feels amazing. If I were to swap the neck out on my Baretta, it would have the EVH profile for sure.

[PFDarkside]

Nope. I can get along with standard Fender necks just tine. It's about the shoulder at that point. Wizard necks and even the later 80's Kramer necks are too thin for me (flat back with little side shoulder). Keep it a C and I'm good. Gibson's Slim 60's profile is even fine. The SRV neck is sweet as I've played some Fender SRV Strats and the Wolfgang feels amazing. If I were to swap the neck out on my Baretta, it would have the EVH profile for sure.

Ok, I see. I think I am the same way, the shoulder is everything. I hate the D profile, thin with too much shoulder is not my thing. But Vs are odd too. I used to hate them but I’ve got a Japanese 52 Tele and a Martin V series that have different V-ish tapers and they are not ideal but pretty good. I’m thinking unfinished roasted maple would let me sand down any offensive shoulders. Too small and you can’t do anything. I’m also thinking that 1-5/8”’makes thicker necks much more manageable. That Tele above in 1-11/16” might be a bit much.

[PFDarkside]

Tangerine color superstrat with a maple neck, H-H, reverse headstock.

Thats what I'd do.

I also am a fan or orange Strats. (Sorry for the crappy cameraphone pic)

[ErikH]

Ok, I see. I think I am the same way, the shoulder is everything. I hate the D profile, thin with too much shoulder is not my thing. But Vs are odd too. I used to hate them but I’ve got a Japanese 52 Tele and a Martin V series that have different V-ish tapers and they are not ideal but pretty good. I’m thinking unfinished roasted maple would let me sand down any offensive shoulders. Too small and you can’t do anything. I’m also thinking that 1-5/8”’makes thicker necks much more manageable. That Tele above in 1-11/16” might be a bit much.

My boatneck contour necks have 1 5/8" nut widths. As I mentioned in my post from August, I had one that was 1 11/16" but it didn't feel as comfortable. It felt "off". It was the nut width. I sold it and got a roasted maple neck with the same profile but the narrower nut. Feels perfect.

[GuitarStv]

I really like the Wolfgang neck profile that Warmoth does. 1 and 11/16ths nut, and with 6100 frets. It's asymmetric profile is the best of both worlds. It is chunky when you want to wrap your thumb over the top and doesn't cramp up your hands when playing rhythm for long stretches, but it's thin when you put your thumb to the back of the neck and want to play fast solos. Just lovely. Everyone who picks the guitar up likes it.

[Top-L]

I also am a fan or orange Strats. (Sorry for the crappy cameraphone pic)

I would proudly rock any of those!

[DKSEARS]

Since I already owned several different types of guitars when I started building, I’ve been relatively comfortable with a few types of necks and started building to experiment with things I normally hadn’t found in a store.

When I did my first Warmoth build, I got option paralysis. At that point, I wasn’t even sure what I really expected, or wanted.

That first build was a basic tele. So, I ended up choosing what I thought would fit the motif, and chose a 24.75 scale (personal preference), 1 11/16 nut width (because Warmoth mentioned it was pretty much “industry standard”) maple boatneck (V) with a pao ferro fretboard (for visual interest, over maple), satin nitro finish and standard 6150 frets. I like the neck and the guitar plays great, but I tend favor humbuckers, which leaves this one home unless I want that sound.

This helped start to narrow in my preference for the 1 11/16 nut width, 24.75 scale neck and satin nitro finish. These have carried on into the next two necks.

The next one was easier. I was going for a mahogany soloist body shreddy rock guitar. I knew I wanted a thinner neck profile, but not as thin as the wizard. This one got a 24.75 scale mahogany standard thin neck with an ebony fretboard and my first run at stainless steel 6150 frets. It’s fairly close to my Jackson Dinkys’ necks in feel, which has been kind of “home base” for me, as those were my first really good guitars and what I “grew up” playing.

The most recent build was intended to be more in between the first two, but still leaning toward the super Strat genre, but closer to the feel my recent purchases of Les Pauls. This one got a 24.75 scale maple on maple 59 round back neck, with stainless steel 6105 frets. For some reason, this feels a lot like home. I like the little extra meat it has.

The 6150 stainless frets and 59 round back shape will likely become my standards, too. I have been wanting to try the Wolfgang profile, though.

These experiments have brought me to help me form my preferences for my future builds, but like anything else my journey, is not yours.