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Non-standard FR bar, what would you do?

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  • Non-standard FR bar, what would you do?

    Received new ESP M-1000 a couple days ago from ProAudioStar. It came with a pack of allen wrenches and a FR bar. It did not appear to be a repack or previously opened.

    However, I have discovered that the Floyd Rose bar that came with it is not a standard FR bar. (See pic). It is shorter. I didn't realize this until I finished setting it up and the bar was really close to the board, making it difficult to use. Also, one of the allen wrenches is black, while the others are all silver.

    I ordered an M-400 a few weeks ago, and it came with a standard FR bar, all the allen wrenches were silver, and they came in their own bag. Do you think this is a screw up on the part of ProAudioStar (maybe a customer returned it without a bar or a wrong bar) or ESP?

    I'm calling PAS to see if I can get it rectified.Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Our guess is as good as yours. Call the distributor and see what's up. Or spend $12 and get a regular bar

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    • #3
      Send it back

      So I can get an even better repackaged deal
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      • #4
        Has anyone seen a bar like that? Its not a FRS or OFR bar. Maybe it is from a liscensed system?

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        • #5
          looks a lot like the collar in this photo:

          https://www.amazon.com/Floyd-Rose-Or...A6SHYA665M0XJ8

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
            looks a lot like the collar in this photo:

            https://www.amazon.com/Floyd-Rose-Or...A6SHYA665M0XJ8
            This is from the FR site

            https://floydrose.com/products/frtak...nt=29922878802

            The one you linked looks fake, but could just be camera angle.

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            • #7
              Here are 3 arms from some of the Floyd-ed guitars currently hanging on my wall. All 3 of these are from 2017 or newer. From left to right: Schaller Lockmeister, Floyd 1000 (OEM), OFR (Made in Germany)

              EDIT: All 3 measure right around 32mm from the bottom of the bar to the mid-point of the bar's thickness right after it completes the curve

              One good way to tell a proper FR arm from a lower quality unit is to lift up the collar...there should be a small pin holding the collar on the bar. If you see a white bushing or some other arrangement keeping the collar on, then it's definitely not original.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	20200814_134658_resized_marked.jpg Views:	0 Size:	37.5 KB ID:	6009654
              Last edited by Masta' C; 08-14-2020, 01:07 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
                Here are 3 arms from some of the Floyd-ed guitars currently hanging on my wall. All 3 of these are from 2017 or newer. From left to right: Schaller Lockmeister, Floyd 1000 (OEM), OFR (Made in Germany)

                EDIT: All 3 measure right around 32mm from the bottom of the bar to the mid-point of the bar's thickness right after it completes the curve

                One good way to tell a proper FR arm from a lower quality unit is to lift up the collar...there should be a small pin holding the collar on the bar. If you see a white bushing or some other arrangement keeping the collar on, then it's definitely not original.

                Click image for larger version Name:	20200814_134658_resized_marked.jpg Views:	0 Size:	37.5 KB ID:	6009654
                I'm skeptical because on two of my bars, (the longer ones), the bar fits farther down into the insert which provides more bracing and makes it more solid. The short bar has much less bracing in the hole.

                The short bar which matches what you show, the threads are not as long and do not mate with the entire "barrel", and it makes a nasty flutter noise on certain notes, even when I don't touch it. The bar is very loose, even when tightly screwed in. Its a brand new 1000 and the bar is already lose in the socket? No. (Maybe they sent me a "used" or customer return? It looks new.)

                Think about it, why would FR make the outer barrel 10mm longer than the bars threads, and make the hole deeper than the bar? The longer bar with longer threads is a better design.

                And why does the pic on the FR site match the longer bars?

                I tried using the shorter bar and its difficult to use. It ends up being much closer to the guitar and is hard to grab and depress, unless you are the kind of player who floats your palm over it and uses it that way.

                Try to find a longer bar and you will see what I mean.
                Last edited by Top-L; 08-14-2020, 01:57 PM.

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                • #9
                  I emails floyd rose support. Maybe they will respond.

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                  • #10
                    ProAudioStar is a lot of returned stuff sold at a good price. If you return it, you might get your money and that’s it. If you really like it, keep it and buy a new bar. If you are on the fence, return and see what happens.
                    Oh no.....


                    Oh Yeah!

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                    • #11
                      Oh I'm keeping it. Just trying to figure out the bar situ.

                      It looked completely new and unopened. What's confusing is I thought all fr parts were interchangeable, but it looks there are at least two variants.

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                      • #12
                        Mine are legitimate Floyd Rose/Schaller bars. If I pull the collar down all the way, the bar protrudes beyond the bottom of the collar roughly 10mm

                        Click image for larger version

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                        • #13
                          Consider this screw-up (p.i.) to be the blessing in disguise that prompts you to these.

                          https://floydrose.com/products/frtap...nt=29837630226

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                          • #14
                            Still waiting for a reply from Floyd Rose support, but afaict, the higher bars are unique to the Floyd Rose Special.

                            Measured on the same guitar, the OFR bar tip is 5mm lower. The shaft that protrudes is 5mm taller, but the bar angle is the same. The FRS bar also seems to insert farther into the hole.

                            This particular bar is loose in the socket, so while its an "OFR" bar, it may be defective or used. Being 5mm shorter makes a difference, its probably easier to palm it, but the taller one is easier to grab with fingers.

                            FRS bar is more similar in height to Ibanez Edge bars, so if you're used to an Edge, you might try to find a FRS bar for your OFR. Afaict, quality is the same or better on the FRS.


                            Last edited by Top-L; 08-17-2020, 08:50 AM.

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                            • #15
                              Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. I don't think even the OFR has ever had "Gotoh" levels of precision and build tolerances, honestly. It's a bit difficult to hit that "perfectly tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally with any of these. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

                              The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.

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