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Non-standard FR bar, what would you do?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
    Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. It's a bit difficult to hit that "tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

    The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.
    Even when fully tightened, the short bar wobbles. It just doesnt grab the threads very well. I have two FRS which are great, and the first 1000 I get has an issue. I added teflon tape to the threads, and with the taller bar, its solid.

    If I use the smaller bar on my other Floyds, it also wobbles. Meaning that the bar shifts in its socket instead of moving the bridge at first. There is some "play".

    I actually prefer that the bar doesn't swing at all. If I want it out of the way, I will push it.

    While the 1000 baseplate and saddles may be OFR materials, the bar seems low quality.

    Ive ordered a FRS bar from stewmac, mainly because I want the extra height. I chose the FRS instead of OFR bar.

    I think the 1000 bar is following the OFR design, but without the tight german tolerances. (either that or it was swapped somewhere. )The FRS bar is designed with a longer shaft and threads and probably less susceptible to poor manufacturing.
    Last edited by Top-L; 08-17-2020, 01:18 PM.

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    • #17
      Yeah, that is an odd behavior. When tightened, there's no bar "wobble" on any of the bridges I mentioned above and one is a 1000-series bridge also. Definitely seems like something's up with your bar...

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      • #18
        "Hello there

        Yes, that bar doesn’t look like one of ours. All of our arms are made by the same specs. "

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        • #19
          Another thing about the floyd rose push-in bars; They have a very flat angle, even flatter than the edge push-ins, much flatter than floyd screw-ins.
          Better for some things IMO. They all have their pros and cons. Screw-ins have their advantages too.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
            Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. I don't think even the OFR has ever had "Gotoh" levels of precision and build tolerances, honestly. It's a bit difficult to hit that "perfectly tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally with any of these. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

            The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.
            I received a new FRS bar from StewMac. The new bar is tight on the threads and has the height I am used to.

            I noticed that the wonky bar I received with the guitar, the inner threads are very silver (paint completely worn off) compared to the new bar where the space in-between threads is still black. Also, part of the shaft of the wonky bar has the paint worn off.

            It's obvious to me that the wonky bar was previously used (proably alot). This indicates to me that the guitar was a customer return. Three weeks earlier I had bought another ESP M-400 and it shipped with a small bag of silver allen wrenches. The M-1000, the allen wrenches were loose in the whammy bar bag, and the largest wrench was black, not silver.

            The guitar is otherwise in good condition and I got a good deal on it. Im hoping that PAS issues a credit to cover the bar. If not, then the deal I got not as good.

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            • #21
              Actually, the last thing I said was:

              Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
              Yeah, that is an odd behavior. When tightened, there's no bar "wobble" on any of the bridges I mentioned above and one is a 1000-series bridge also. Definitely seems like something's up with your bar...
              I'm glad you decided to purchase a new bar for it (which was my original suggestion in post #2) and that it's working out for you.

              Crazy that the bars got mixed up in the first place, very odd.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Masta' C View Post
                Actually, the last thing I said was:



                I'm glad you decided to purchase a new bar for it (which was my original suggestion in post #2) and that it's working out for you.
                I'm glad you gave me this advice. I don't think I would have figured it out on my own.


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