Non-standard FR bar, what would you do?

[Top-L]

Actually, the last thing I said was:



I'm glad you decided to purchase a new bar for it (which was my original suggestion in post #2) and that it's working out for you.

I'm glad you gave me this advice. I don't think I would have figured it out on my own.

[Masta' C]

Actually, the last thing I said was:

Yeah, that is an odd behavior. When tightened, there's no bar "wobble" on any of the bridges I mentioned above and one is a 1000-series bridge also. Definitely seems like something's up with your bar...

I'm glad you decided to purchase a new bar for it (which was my original suggestion in post #2) and that it's working out for you.

Crazy that the bars got mixed up in the first place, very odd.

[Top-L]

Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. I don't think even the OFR has ever had "Gotoh" levels of precision and build tolerances, honestly. It's a bit difficult to hit that "perfectly tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally with any of these. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.

I received a new FRS bar from StewMac. The new bar is tight on the threads and has the height I am used to.

I noticed that the wonky bar I received with the guitar, the inner threads are very silver (paint completely worn off) compared to the new bar where the space in-between threads is still black. Also, part of the shaft of the wonky bar has the paint worn off.

It's obvious to me that the wonky bar was previously used (proably alot). This indicates to me that the guitar was a customer return. Three weeks earlier I had bought another ESP M-400 and it shipped with a small bag of silver allen wrenches. The M-1000, the allen wrenches were loose in the whammy bar bag, and the largest wrench was black, not silver.

The guitar is otherwise in good condition and I got a good deal on it. Im hoping that PAS issues a credit to cover the bar. If not, then the deal I got not as good.

[dave74]

Another thing about the floyd rose push-in bars; They have a very flat angle, even flatter than the edge push-ins, much flatter than floyd screw-ins.
Better for some things IMO. They all have their pros and cons. Screw-ins have their advantages too.

[Top-L]

"Hello there

Yes, that bar doesn’t look like one of ours. All of our arms are made by the same specs. "

[Masta' C]

Yeah, that is an odd behavior. When tightened, there's no bar "wobble" on any of the bridges I mentioned above and one is a 1000-series bridge also. Definitely seems like something's up with your bar...

[Top-L]

Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. It's a bit difficult to hit that "tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.

Even when fully tightened, the short bar wobbles. It just doesnt grab the threads very well. I have two FRS which are great, and the first 1000 I get has an issue. I added teflon tape to the threads, and with the taller bar, its solid.

If I use the smaller bar on my other Floyds, it also wobbles. Meaning that the bar shifts in its socket instead of moving the bridge at first. There is some "play".

I actually prefer that the bar doesn't swing at all. If I want it out of the way, I will push it.

While the 1000 baseplate and saddles may be OFR materials, the bar seems low quality.

Ive ordered a FRS bar from stewmac, mainly because I want the extra height. I chose the FRS instead of OFR bar.

I think the 1000 bar is following the OFR design, but without the tight german tolerances. (either that or it was swapped somewhere. )The FRS bar is designed with a longer shaft and threads and probably less susceptible to poor manufacturing.

[Masta' C]

Not sure why you still think it's "used", but to each their own. None of the bars I have really "grab" the threads until they approach max tightness. I don't think even the OFR has ever had "Gotoh" levels of precision and build tolerances, honestly. It's a bit difficult to hit that "perfectly tight, but not stuck" setting that I like personally with any of these. My Floyd 1000 (OEM), which is probably the same bridge you have, is arguably the worst at this.

The main difference I see between your bar and the 3 of mine is that the section that extends into the bridge isn't painted/coated. However, production lots may vary and removing paint from this area may have been something they discontinued to save on machine time/production costs, especially on the Korean-made 1000 series.

[Top-L]

Still waiting for a reply from Floyd Rose support, but afaict, the higher bars are unique to the Floyd Rose Special.

Measured on the same guitar, the OFR bar tip is 5mm lower. The shaft that protrudes is 5mm taller, but the bar angle is the same. The FRS bar also seems to insert farther into the hole.

This particular bar is loose in the socket, so while its an "OFR" bar, it may be defective or used. Being 5mm shorter makes a difference, its probably easier to palm it, but the taller one is easier to grab with fingers.

FRS bar is more similar in height to Ibanez Edge bars, so if you're used to an Edge, you might try to find a FRS bar for your OFR. Afaict, quality is the same or better on the FRS.

[dave74]

Consider this screw-up (p.i.) to be the blessing in disguise that prompts you to these.

https://floydrose.com/products/frtap...nt=29837630226

[Masta' C]

Mine are legitimate Floyd Rose/Schaller bars. If I pull the collar down all the way, the bar protrudes beyond the bottom of the collar roughly 10mm

[Top-L]

Oh I'm keeping it. Just trying to figure out the bar situ.

It looked completely new and unopened. What's confusing is I thought all fr parts were interchangeable, but it looks there are at least two variants.

[PFDarkside]

ProAudioStar is a lot of returned stuff sold at a good price. If you return it, you might get your money and that’s it. If you really like it, keep it and buy a new bar. If you are on the fence, return and see what happens.

[Top-L]

I emails floyd rose support. Maybe they will respond.

[Top-L]

Here are 3 arms from some of the Floyd-ed guitars currently hanging on my wall. All 3 of these are from 2017 or newer. From left to right: Schaller Lockmeister, Floyd 1000 (OEM), OFR (Made in Germany)

EDIT: All 3 measure right around 32mm from the bottom of the bar to the mid-point of the bar's thickness right after it completes the curve

One good way to tell a proper FR arm from a lower quality unit is to lift up the collar...there should be a small pin holding the collar on the bar. If you see a white bushing or some other arrangement keeping the collar on, then it's definitely not original.

I'm skeptical because on two of my bars, (the longer ones), the bar fits farther down into the insert which provides more bracing and makes it more solid. The short bar has much less bracing in the hole.

The short bar which matches what you show, the threads are not as long and do not mate with the entire "barrel", and it makes a nasty flutter noise on certain notes, even when I don't touch it. The bar is very loose, even when tightly screwed in. Its a brand new 1000 and the bar is already lose in the socket? No. (Maybe they sent me a "used" or customer return? It looks new.)

Think about it, why would FR make the outer barrel 10mm longer than the bars threads, and make the hole deeper than the bar? The longer bar with longer threads is a better design.

And why does the pic on the FR site match the longer bars?

I tried using the shorter bar and its difficult to use. It ends up being much closer to the guitar and is hard to grab and depress, unless you are the kind of player who floats your palm over it and uses it that way.

Try to find a longer bar and you will see what I mean.