Single vs 4 conductor wire for Les Paul 3 way pickup selector?

[oilpit]

I decided to rip everything out of my Les Paul and get all new electronics, both due to the fact that I bought it used and the solder job was embarrassing and the cables were just stuffed into the cavity, made the pickups almost impossible to change.

So I'm looking online at some new wire to get and I'm wondering if using 4 conductor wiring opens up any more options as far as pickup manipulation, or if the classic braided single conductor is the way to go. Off the top of my head I can't really see any reason to use 4 conductor but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Any input is much appreciated!

EDIT: I realize how unclear I was with my question. My pickups are all 4 conductor, I am wondering specifically if there is a difference when connecting the pickup selector switch.

[ErikH]

Well, if you want to split the pickups, or go parallel, or out of phase, you want the 4-conductor. I have a Les Paul Traditional Pro that splits each pickup with a push/pull on the volume. It came that way, and I really like that option. The volume pots are CTS SPST. You can get them at Stew-Mac. If you want to do more than just split, then you want DPDT.

The forum software change was out of necessity. The old version had security issues, performance issues, and well, issues. Change isn't easy for everyone. There is a dark theme that is available to select from that the bottom left of the page where it may say "Default vB5 Style". Just don't select Old School. Easy to get back to another one by selecting one from the visible list near the bottom of the text. There's another one that is messed up like that. Can't remember which one. Check out the Dark theme.

I'm not an admin but have read about the various problems with the old software.

[AlexR]

Unless you're changing your 3-way switch, then obviously whatever it did before is what it will do now - so you need as many conductors as what you had before. The typical Gibson has 2 wires going to, and 1 returning from..........plus chassis ground. A 4 conductor therefore will lead to more space in the channel - merely as it takes up the same space as 1 braided cable.

[eclecticsynergy]

In a Les Paul the switch is after each pickup's individual controls so if you want, it would be easy to add other capabilities without needing to replace the switch.

Out of phase is a cool sound, very different. Hardly ever use it myself but it makes a nice alternative for once in a while.

Your choice of pickup enters into it too. Some split better than others and IME many vintage output pickups clean up well enough via the volume knob to make splitting unnecessary. This is especially true if the pickups - or this Les Paul - have fairly bright character. Or if you use treble bleeds.

[ItsaBass]

Are you asking about the pickup leads, or the pickup selector switch wires?

[oilpit]

Are you asking about the pickup leads, or the pickup selector switch wires?

Sorry, reading through the responses I realize what a terrible job I did clarifying that. The pickups themselves are all 4 conductor to make use of the push pull. I was curious whether it made any difference to use it to connect the 3 way to the output jack

[ItsaBass]

Sorry, reading through the responses I realize what a terrible job I did clarifying that. The pickups themselves are all 4 conductor to make use of the push pull. I was curious whether it made any difference to use it to connect the 3 way to the output jack

That's how I read it, but for a minute there I thought you might be talking about 4C vs 2C braided lead pickup wires.

I use braided wire to run from the center lugs of the switch. Gibson themselves did this for years as well. Braided for ground, center wire for the positive. Then a separate wire from each outer switch lug. I like this better than the tiny-ass wires Gibson uses in the modern era. I find them difficult to solder, and fragile.

I do mechanically back up the connections with the braided ground wire by twist wiring the braid to the switch and jack lugs before soldering. I use a short length of bare wire twisted like a bread tie, using pliers. And I also insulate the braided wire to prevent contact with anything other than ground along its routing path. Heat shrink tubing makes this very easy and neat (and it need not actually be shrunk – just slipped over the length of the braid). But you can use tape if that's all you have on hand.