Low E won’t intonate on prs trem

[Lewguitar]

I'm also wondering if the screw is hitting the inside of the circular space of the saddle and preventing the saddle from going back any further.

Although it does look like the left corner of the saddle is hitting the corner of bridge and preventing further travel as well, as others have noted.

Looks like the saddle is being forced to the right so that it's slightly crooked.

Another thing to consider is that if this is a bolt on neck the neck angle relative to the body might need to be increased.

If it was a Strat you could put a 1/2" shim cut from an old credit card or something in the neck pocket.

That would make the strings slightly longer and might give you the adjustment range you need.

I've done that to many Strats and Teles and the increased string angle usually makes them sound better too.

Maybe there's an adjustment on the back for that with PRS guitars...I forget.

None of my PRS guitars have a vibrato and it's been 20 years since I've owned a CE.

[Top-L]

When I set the intonation on my guitars I FIRST hit a harmonic at the 12th fret and tune the string so the harmonic is in tune.

NEXT I press the string down at the 12th fret and make sure it's in tune as well.

If it isn't I adjust the string length and do it again.

In that order.

The harmonic is potentially inaccurate. It is the middle of the whole string, but if the nut is not exactly at the right place (and it never is for all six strings), it makes the harmonic inaccurate.

Comparing fret to fret+12 is the best.

[Lewguitar]

The harmonic is potentially inaccurate. It is the middle of the whole string, but if the nut is not exactly at the right place (and it never is for all six strings), it makes the harmonic inaccurate.

Comparing fret to fret+12 is the best.

If the harmonic at the 12th fret is not the same note as the string fretted at the 12th fret it's going to sound out of tune to most players.

For me, they need to be the same note.

For you? Maybe not.

Everybody has their own way of doing things but I know what works for me.

[Jack_TriPpEr]

When I set the intonation on my guitars I FIRST hit a harmonic at the 12th fret and tune the string so the harmonic is in tune.

NEXT I press the string down at the 12th fret and make sure it's in tune as well.

If it isn't I adjust the string length and do it again.

In that order.

The above is the correct procedure.

https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/guitar-setup-part-3-intonation/

[ErikH]

Boy....that's pretty lame. I don't mean YOU, I mean PRS.

I'm surprised that PRS, with their penchant for quality, would mess up like that.

Tons of players use 10 - 46 strings.

I'd call PRS and see what they say.

If this is an ongoing issue I'm sure others have contacted them as well and they may have some suggestions.

Yeah, I thought that was pretty strange myself. My buddy's CE was from the early 2000's I think. He has since sold it.

[man-in-moon]

I’m still tweaking everything trying to get it set right. I’ve talked to PRS a few times and they said putting 10’s on it should work pretty well. So I don’t see it being stuck with having to use 9’s on their guitars. If that was the case it seems like other strings would be giving me issues not just the low E.
If I was going up to 12’s or something like that I could see issues. I had to take a break from messing with it for awhile. Before i threw it against the wall lol. Sometimes it’s better to take a step back for awhile and unwind that start over.

[Lewguitar]

I’m still tweaking everything trying to get it set right. I’ve talked to PRS a few times and they said putting 10’s on it should work pretty well. So I don’t see it being stuck with having to use 9’s on their guitars. If that was the case it seems like other strings would be giving me issues not just the low E.
If I was going up to 12’s or something like that I could see issues. I had to take a break from messing with it for awhile. Before i threw it against the wall lol. Sometimes it’s better to take a step back for awhile and unwind that start over.

I wish I could look at that ax in person. I'm sure we'd be able to figure it out.

[idsnowdog]

It looks like in the left-hand corner the square saddle is running into the curved rim of the bridge plate. I wound try removing the spring and rounding that corner with a dremel to get more rearward travel.

[Top-L]

The above is the correct procedure.

https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare...-3-intonation/

This is the correct procedure.

https://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/intonation.htm

"Using my "normal" tuner [the type I figure most of you are using, so good for everybody] I can move a saddle almost a mm and the 12th fretted and harmonic will not change. Fret the 24th and move the saddle 1mm, big change. If I set it to the 24th and check the 12th everything is still dead on."

The sweetwater procedure is simplified for tan pantzers who just learned there is something called "intonation".

[Jack_TriPpEr]

This is the correct procedure.

https://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/intonation.htm

"Using my "normal" tuner [the type I figure most of you are using, so good for everybody] I can move a saddle almost a mm and the 12th fretted and harmonic will not change. Fret the 24th and move the saddle 1mm, big change. If I set it to the 24th and check the 12th everything is still dead on."

The sweetwater procedure is simplified for tan pantzers who just learned there is something called "intonation".

Many guitars don't have a 24th fret. The reference you cited explains what to do for those guitars. And guess what it says for non-24 fretters - It says to ensure the intonation at the 12th fret is good.

"On a 22 or 21 fret guitar I will set it at the last fret but always double check against the same note before the 12th AND the 12th fret fretted because of the inherent inconsistencies found in fretted instruments. If you have a 22 fretter check the 22nd against the 10th, then double check that the 12th is in tune."

But that is a side-point to why i posted what i did.
My point was that for the intonation method to be correct, one must 1st tune the open string to pitch (can be done via 12th fret harmonic), then *and only then* check what the intonation is further up the neck, i.e. fretted note at the 12th fret). "Intonation" is a reference to how well the guitar stays in tune as you go further up the neck -starting from the open string. Therefore one musr first ensure that the string is in tune as an open note before doing anything else.

[Top-L]

Many guitars don't have a 24th fret. The reference you cited explains what to do for those guitars. And guess what it says for non-24 fretters - It says to ensure the intonation at the 12th fret is good.

"On a 22 or 21 fret guitar I will set it at the last fret but always double check against the same note before the 12th AND the 12th fret fretted because of the inherent inconsistencies found in fretted instruments. If you have a 22 fretter check the 22nd against the 10th, then double check that the 12th is in tune."

But that is a side-point to why i posted what i did.
My point was that for the intonation method to be correct, one must 1st tune the open string to pitch (can be done via 12th fret harmonic), then *and only then* check what the intonation is further up the neck, i.e. fretted note at the 12th fret). "Intonation" is a reference to how well the guitar stays in tune as you go further up the neck -starting from the open string. Therefore one musr first ensure that the string is in tune as an open note before doing anything else.

Like a dog with a bone, you won't let go!

This was a learning opportunity that you have missed. Good night.

[Jack_TriPpEr]

Like a dog with a bone, you won't let go!

This was a learning opportunity that you have missed. Good night.

haha. Sure.

[allstarrme]

What does your bridge height look like?
PRs usually wants them floating and parallel to the top. Also what do your pivot screws under the bridge looks like? If they are worn or the bridge is worn where they meet it can cause problems. Is the bridge in the grooves on the pivot screws?

I run 10’s on mine but my oldest one is a 10 with almost no wear. I have looked into the mannmade solid one piece bridge’s but if it’s not worn out it’s hardly worth the upgrade.

[man-in-moon]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. I finally got it setup I probably went overboard. But I tore the whole thing apart removed all the hardware took the neck off and the tuners. I took the bridge out and took it apart. Everything but the electronics. I figure the guitar is 23 years old and no telling how it was taken care of or not taken care of. So I took my time and put everything back together made sure stuff was tightened up good.
Redid the bridge height and string height. Redid the truss rod and everything turned out ok the saddle is still pretty far back but not as bad as it was. So it’s not hitting the corner of the bridge. Now that I am done I can finally get to playing the thing and enjoying it. Once again thanks for all the info I really appreciate it.

[Lewguitar]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. I finally got it setup I probably went overboard. But I tore the whole thing apart removed all the hardware took the neck off and the tuners. I took the bridge out and took it apart. Everything but the electronics. I figure the guitar is 23 years old and no telling how it was taken care of or not taken care of. So I took my time and put everything back together made sure stuff was tightened up good.
Redid the bridge height and string height. Redid the truss rod and everything turned out ok the saddle is still pretty far back but not as bad as it was. So it’s not hitting the corner of the bridge. Now that I am done I can finally get to playing the thing and enjoying it. Once again thanks for all the info I really appreciate it.

So what do you think the problem was?