Originally posted by Mincer
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Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!
Originally posted by Douglas AdamsThis planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.
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I have never had the occasion to work on a guitar equipped with a Speedloader. I remember some of the Kramers had a Schaller-made Floyd with these square tubes on the back end of the unit, and you could use ball end strings.aka Chris Pile, formerly of Six String Fever
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It is like the Steinberger system, which uses double ball strings. It is a brilliant idea until you realize strings are only made by a few companies (all have since stopped) and cost 3x as much. It really is a great system, though. The ball fits in a slot at either end, and half of a turn, you are in tune.
I never examined a Speedloader up close, but the Floyd Rose-branded guitars were hideous.
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Originally posted by Mincer View PostI take off all the strings (no other way to clean the fretboard and frets)
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That seems like a mess. I'd rather not have to pop anything. Just get something to put under the bridge to stabilize it.Administrator of the SDUGF
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Well its not any different when you adjust string action: you take out the springs and let the bridge sit completely loose. You just have to take out the completely detached bridge from the cavity. But I understand if someone likes a "cleaner" looking method - I'm just too lazy to find the "right sized block to use... And I bet that you cannot use the same block for all guitars as the cavity size and/or the sus block size will differ, calling for a differently sized block. Or can you?
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I use a small metal plate which is padded on the bottom. It is more like a ramp, really, and it fits between the saddle length adjustment screws and the body, keeping the bridge plate parallel to the body when you change strings.Administrator of the SDUGF
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Originally posted by nexion218 View PostWell its not any different when you adjust string action: you take out the springs and let the bridge sit completely loose. You just have to take out the completely detached bridge from the cavity. But I understand if someone likes a "cleaner" looking method - I'm just too lazy to find the "right sized block to use... And I bet that you cannot use the same block for all guitars as the cavity size and/or the sus block size will differ, calling for a differently sized block. Or can you?
Dude...do you even play guitar or just hang around?
P.S. Yes you can use the same block for nearly all guitars: A nine-volt battery should do it.
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Originally posted by Obsessive Compulsive View Post
How do you adjust the action with the strings off? The strings have to stay onboard and strung to their regular tension otherwise there is no way to determine if you have reached the proper action.
Dude...do you even play guitar or just hang around?
P.S. Yes you can use the same block for nearly all guitars: A nine-volt battery should do it.
With that out of the way, I never said that I adjust action with strings off. For starters, we were talking about working on the frets and board of a Floyd equipped guitar and both dave74 and I have suggested that its easy, you just have to remove the bridge unit from the guitar, pull the strings aside and do your job on the board then reinstall the bridge. That way you avoid doing a whole setup from ground zero.
Mincer found this to be a messy solution, to which I replied that its not much different than setting up the action of a Floyded guitar, since to adjust the height adjustment screws of the unit, most people knowing what they're doing remove the springs to avoid blunting the baseplate knives by turning the height adjustment screws under full string tension. You remove the springs, adjust height and reinstall springs then check the action. Rinse, repeat until its where you want it to be. Yes, the Floyd has its iherent flaws, cumbersome setup being one if them.
But of course there are people who do it under full tension, then use their full force to tighten the string clamps and blocks and then run around internet forum whining about their sh!tty Floyd which wont stay in tune, return to zero or hold the string...
In case you still don't understand I suggest taking up reading classes instead of guitar.Last edited by jeremy; 12-02-2020, 10:11 AM.
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Originally posted by Mincer View PostI use a small metal plate which is padded on the bottom. It is more like a ramp, really, and it fits between the saddle length adjustment screws and the body, keeping the bridge plate parallel to the body when you change strings.Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!
Originally posted by Douglas AdamsThis planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.
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I have one of these that I use when changing strings. Can't recall when I got it but it was probably 25 or so years ago. Definitely after I purchased my Baretta.
Changing the strings isn't too bad for me. I don't playing a Floyd equipped guitar as my main one anyway. Though it is dive-only, I find this tool very helpful with getting to the string lock allen screws on the back. Once they are changed, remove the block, stretch them out, tune up, stretch, tune. Rinse and repeat until they are stable, lock the nut, fine tune if necessary.
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Guys, simmer down. Its a Floyd. No need to call each other names.
Originally posted by ErikH View PostI have one of these that I use when changing strings. Can't recall when I got it but it was probably 25 or so years ago. Definitely after I purchased my Baretta.
Changing the strings isn't too bad for me. I don't playing a Floyd equipped guitar as my main one anyway. Though it is dive-only, I find this tool very helpful with getting to the string lock allen screws on the back. Once they are changed, remove the block, stretch them out, tune up, stretch, tune. Rinse and repeat until they are stable, lock the nut, fine tune if necessary.
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The first "name" player I ever heard of using a Floyd was Randy Hansen. His was made by Floyd himself, of unplated brass.
The second was Edward Van Halen - who is basically responsible for the acceptance of the Floyd into the market.aka Chris Pile, formerly of Six String Fever
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