banner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

First parts build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    The saddles being at the 25.5" mark makes more sense to me. I'll measure a couple of my Fenders and see what they say.
    “I can play the hell out of a riff. The rest of it’s all bulls**t anyway,” Gary Holt

    Comment


    • #17
      On my other guitars of that scale length (none of which are Fender strats), 25.5" roughly aligns with the saddles rather than the bridge posts.
      Last edited by playas; 01-03-2021, 12:31 PM.

      Comment


      • #18
        So after a very small amount of sanding the heel of the neck with 180 grit sandpaper it seems to fit much better into the recess - albeit with more space than I would like between the neck and upper cutaway. Nevertheless it seems to sit very solidly into the pocket. If anything needs to be done there I will address it later.

        I had to borrow a drill for the bridge post mounting screws etc.

        They say measure twice and cut once. I reckon I must have measured at least 5 times along with lots of additional measurements to ensure that the holes are correctly aligned along the centre-line and parrallel to the bridge route and with the right distance between the mounting holes and the saddles to allow for correct intonation.

        Iīm not sure if itīs typical, but to try and ensure that I had the maximum possible leeway for intonation, I set the first and second saddles at the opposite extremes of their range, and the same for the fifth and sixth, then used that as a rough guide for the 25.5" mark.
        There is actually a bit more range on the bass side saddles, so itīs not exactly perfectly parrallel, but I was able to get a clear idea of distance from there.

        I then measured from there to the centre of the screw holes in order to compensate for the distance from the screw holes to the actual 25.5" mark.
        I happen to have a stew mac bridge routing template which came in really useful as it has markings for a 6 hole bridge as well as the 2 post that I originally bought it for, so that allowed me to position the holes properly for drilling.

        I was probably a bit paranoid with intonation and getting the bridge holes properly drilled (I guess thatīs normally done before-hand on a parts build). In any case, I taped down the template and used a 2mm drill bit by hand to mark the positions of each of the holes starting with the 2 outer ones, then the four inners. Once I was happy all the holes would align properly, I removed the template and I drilled to depth (a bit less then the thread length of the screws) with the 2mm bit for all 6 (again starting with the two outer holes.) only after I was happy with those I drilled to 2.5mm and threaded with the screws

        Click image for larger version

Name:	drilled for bridge.jpg
Views:	181
Size:	52.3 KB
ID:	6047243
        In the picture the holes are drilled and threaded. Iīm pretty happy that I have done a good job of it. Itīs the part I was most concerned with messing up. You can see the outer two holes are a little wider as I hadnīt screwed the 4 inner screws down completely (on purpose).

        With all the measurements concentrated on intonation, it didnīt occur to me to check the scratchplate.

        As you can see, it doesnīt fit:
        Click image for larger version

Name:	scratchplate.jpg
Views:	237
Size:	58.5 KB
ID:	6047244

        To be honest, Iīd rather have the intonation correct and have to file / sand down the scratchplate a bit around the neck cutout. I donīt imagine it will be a major problem.

        I had thought Iīd be able to get the scratchplate holes drilled fairly quickly once I finished with the bridge holes though itīll most likely take me a few days to get to it now.
        I also have the two output jack holes and two trem claw holes to drill.

        Comment


        • #19
          Quick update:

          I got all the holes drilled pretty quickly, but then with lockdowns I wasn't able to get it to the luthier for painting so decided to work on the contours.

          ... also still waiting for the solder I ordered before Christmas ☹️

          All the other parts arrived (eventually) but the solder was out of stock so I still haven't been able to wire the pickguard. I'm really curious to know what the pickups sound like.

          I'm hoping to have a bit more time over the weekend to file and sand the elbow and waist contours as they're both pretty small. After a lot of time sanding I took a fine file to it, but still have lots of work to do to get it where I want it.

          Comment


          • #20
            Looking forward to seeing it.
            Originally posted by Bad City
            He's got the crowd on his side and the blue jean lights in his eyes...

            Comment


            • #21
              Thanks for the update! It seems strange it takes so long to get solder. Any shops in your area that might carry it, or know anyone you can borrow from?
              Administrator of the SDUGF

              Comment


              • #22
                It's really ridiculous. I was going to buy some locally but felt it was stupid to buy it as I had ordered a whole spool. Now things are locked down more so no idea where I could get some but I'm sure there must be some place.
                I sent an email yesterday asking for an update. If it's not in stock or I don't hear back by Monday I'll ask for a refund.

                Comment


                • #23
                  I was able to change the order to a different solder and got the solder delivered and a refund for the difference... eventually.

                  I have meanwhile been sanding... although not very much if I'm honest as I haven't had a lot of time. I decided to increase the arm and back contours as they were both quite small. (70s style contours I understand.)

                  It's been very slow progress but at least I've been making some progress.

                  I did also take a slight detour en route which you'll see once I get the contours finished and upload some more pics.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Mincer View Post
                    Never used those locking tuners. I prefer any locking tuners over non-locking, and it helps if they are staggered on a flat headstock without string trees. I do look for lightweight tuners, though, so generally Schaller and Sperzel are are out.
                    I think Sperzel's weigh about 18 lbs, I like the Hipshots.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by playas View Post
                      Here are a few pics of the neck Iīll be using, after rolling the fretboard / fret ends.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Guitar_Neck.jpg
Views:	415
Size:	69.7 KB
ID:	6044703

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	frets.jpg
Views:	428
Size:	51.4 KB
ID:	6044704

                      Most of the parts have now arrived, including the bridge so I have been measuring centrelines etc. trying to get the bridge position set.

                      Unfortunately I have come up against a couple of issues.

                      First is that the neck is anything but a snug fit. Body and neck still need to be finished, but I think Iīll need to sand the heel down the tiniest bit to fit the curve of the body so it will eventually sit more snugly.

                      Second is the fit of the trem. When measuring the 647.7mm (25.5") to mark the position of the bridge, from what I have read the 6 screw hole positions should be at exactly that point.

                      This always seemed counter-intuitive to me as the holes are ahead of the point where the strings bend over the saddles. Surely the measurements should be from roughly the centre of the range of movement of the saddles, to the nut....i.e. the two points from which the strings stretch. Am I wrong here? Also I checked using a different neck and the measurements are different, but closer to the saddle position than the tremolo post (/screw hole) position with both necks.

                      So if I were to allow for that I would need to completely re-route the tremolo cavity further back. As is, the line I have marked matches closer to the actual saddle position.

                      Any suggestions and comments welcome, especially constructive ones.
                      Not really, bridge placement is flexible like +/- 0.5" using saddle adjustment
                      "New stuff always sucks" -Me

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        For bridges, I really like the Gotoh vintage style 6-screw trem. I have that on both of my Strat builds. For tuners, I have Gotoh Kluson style on both of them. I'm contemplating getting some Kluson H non-collared locking tuners for one of them. Drop-in replacements for what is there now, same screw holes and everything.

                        Take your time. Never rush through a process. That's when mistakes happen.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ErikH View Post
                          Take your time. Never rush through a process. That's when mistakes happen.
                          +1

                          Helps too to have an instrument you can play while you tinker
                          Originally posted by crusty philtrum
                          Anyone who *sings* at me through their teeth deserves to have a bus drive through their face
                          http://www.youtube.com/alexiansounds

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            ^ I am taking time with my project, too. All the parts aren't getting here at once, so that helps. I am in no hurry, either.
                            Administrator of the SDUGF

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Not that youīd really notice a lot of difference, but here it is again after a lot more filing / sanding. These are from a few days ago. Both contours have been extended a bit.

                              As it wonīt be visible from the front I also decided to make a concession to upper fret access while I was at it. There was a knot right in the middle which was a bit of a pita, but eventually got there.
                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20210311_sanding.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	79.0 KB
ID:	6065013 Click image for larger version

Name:	sanding_back.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	6065014
                              These were taken before finishing sanding with 120 grit. I noticed that I hadnīt done a good job of following the curve on the rear contour...if you look closely you can see the route kind of flattens out at both ends of the contour, so I went back at it again to follow the curve better and continued sanding with finer grit sandpaper since then.

                              I still have to sand with 320 grit, but almost have the body sanding complete at this stage.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                ...so I eventually got the body back after the sunburst was applied.
                                I spent a good few hours on Thursday & Friday soldering and shielding the cavity.

                                I still have more work to do on the neck, but I put it together and strung it up to see how much I need to take the nut down and check if there are any major problems.

                                Once I can format some pics to share here I'll add them.

                                Pleasantly surprised by how stable the tuning is.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X