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Rebuilt my Artcore but buggered up the wiring

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  • Rebuilt my Artcore but buggered up the wiring

    Rather than necro my 3 year old thread, I'll start a new one.

    3 years ago I picked up an Artcore AF85 VLS. With what used guitar prices are these days, I decided rather than overpaying to finally scratch my tele itch, I'd just finally redo one of my existing axes.

    I got a smokin deal on the Ibanez vintage vibrato with the roller bridge in gold which forced me (super twisted my arm) to redo the whole thing in gold hardware. Locking tuners and replaced the rest of anything chrome into gold and a set of Dimarzio EJ custom pickups which actually do give a very Gretschy sound that I'm really loving on. Couldn't be happier.

    I completely replaced all electronics and even reamed out the holes for full sized pots. Had original mini pots and pcb toggle switch. Something is wrong with my wiring or maybe I cooked the pots soldering. This is where I need the advice. I've rewired guitars before but never a 2 volume/ 2 tone setup and never with a mechanical 3 way toggle. Always HSS superstrat types with blade switches and single tone singe volume pots.

    I want the volumes independent in the middle position for both pickups. What I have now is both volumes turn completely off rolled below 7 in the neck and bridge positions. In the middle position seems the neck volume works til around 5 or 4 before turning off. Below 7 on the bridge still turns off and in the middle position rolling down either volume turns off both pickups and no blending available. Seems like neither tone pot is working at all. The neck one works a little bit but the bridge one isn't working at all. All knobs turned max, the guitar works normal

    I used the 2 attached diagrams to wire it up. I wired it up like the Seymour 2 humbucker but I used the pickup wire placement from the Dimarzio diagram since the two companies use different colored wires. I had to blend the 2 together because I have the metric style toggle switch (shown in the Seymour diagram) and the Dimarzio diagram has the Switchcraft jack.

    I used all bourns 500k audio taper and orange drop .022 caps. I did function check before the fun part of getting back in the guitar but I didn't check anything other the switch positions and the volumes all the way on and all the way off.

    I did find like a god mode to getting the electronics in a hollow body in under 5 minutes. I tried the string method for a hour and kept getting skunked. At the end of my patience I walked away and thought of my 12 inch long curved tweezers I have for working in my planted aquariums. Had to use a string to pull the jack and my bridge ground through but the pots went in with those tweezers in no time and no frustration or swearing required.

    Well the 2 diagrams I used plus a before and after photo of what it looks like now are attached. I basically took an AF85 VLS and turned into a 2013 AF95 VLS.







  • #2
    I'm not seeing any attachments, but for independent volumes, you need the hot wire of the pup to go the center terminal of the volume pot, rather than the outside lug. The outside lug, (opposite the ground lug), then becomes the output that goes to the 3-way. I'll see if I can find a diagram.

    This is often referred to as "50's wiring" if you "Google" it. There's also something else called 50's wiring, that refers to how you wire the tones controls. A Google search will reveal both.

    Like on the right: (I should have said, Google "independent volumes".)

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Independent_volume.png Views:	0 Size:	131.6 KB ID:	6051673
    Last edited by ArtieToo; 01-27-2021, 06:37 AM.

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    • #3
      Use linear taper for volume pots. Audio taper on volume is what makes it turn down too early. (I find it counter-intuitive, but linear for volume and audio for tone makes the controls work smoothly across all settings.)

      Sounds like the tone pots might not be grounded and are adding an extra volume-type load.

      I've never heard of a metric toggle switch, but I don't think a switch would be influential on the problams stated.

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      • #4
        Trying again. Weird the pics and diagrams were there before I hit post oh well. Anyways. Again, the wiring matches (minus the pickups) are exactly like the seymour diagram because that's what my switch looks like. The actual pickup wire locations are like the dimarizio diamgram because as I understand it the 2 companies use different colored wires.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	SD wiring.jpg Views:	0 Size:	49.2 KB ID:	6051810Click image for larger version  Name:	Dimarziowiring.jpg Views:	0 Size:	81.0 KB ID:	6051809Click image for larger version  Name:	20210127_005437.jpg Views:	0 Size:	73.2 KB ID:	6051808Click image for larger version  Name:	20210127_010042.jpg Views:	0 Size:	105.3 KB ID:	6051807Click image for larger version  Name:	20210109_042116.jpg Views:	0 Size:	75.4 KB ID:	6051806
        Last edited by moth_baller; 01-27-2021, 05:05 PM.

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        • #5
          Nice guitar. The diagrams look right. Would have to see the actual wiring in detail to tell if something is missing/incorect.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post
            I'm not seeing any attachments, but for independent volumes, you need the hot wire of the pup to go the center terminal of the volume pot, rather than the outside lug. The outside lug, (opposite the ground lug), then becomes the output that goes to the 3-way. I'll see if I can find a diagram.

            This is often referred to as "50's wiring" if you "Google" it. There's also something else called 50's wiring, that refers to how you wire the tones controls. A Google search will reveal both.

            Like on the right: (I should have said, Google "independent volumes".)

            Click image for larger version Name:	Independent_volume.png Views:	0 Size:	131.6 KB ID:	6051673
            Thank you. I was looking for this already and I couldn't find anything like this. It was always using braided wire which I don't have any of.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post
              Use linear taper for volume pots. Audio taper on volume is what makes it turn down too early. (I find it counter-intuitive, but linear for volume and audio for tone makes the controls work smoothly across all settings.)

              Sounds like the tone pots might not be grounded and are adding an extra volume-type load.

              I've never heard of a metric toggle switch, but I don't think a switch would be influential on the problams stated.
              The only name I see (says on stewmac) for it is metric toggle switch. The difference compared to the switchcraft one is there's only one contact on the back side of the one I have. The switchcraft has two contacts. I'm going to hopefully pull it apart tomorrow. Need to go to the hardware store and get some more wire. I didn't think of how I made the lengths and using the larger pots, that I had to be better about hiding the wires around the f hole. first time working in a hollow body.
              Last edited by moth_baller; 01-27-2021, 10:40 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post
                Nice guitar. The diagrams look right. Would have to see the actual wiring in detail to tell if something is missing/incorect.
                Thanks. It came alive so to speak replacing the pickups. They are very expressive now. Great as long as I don't touch the knobs. hopefully tomorrow night I'll have it torn back apart and redone.

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                • #9
                  Thank you for the curved tweezers tip. I hadn't thought of that.
                  Dave, Ambassador/Writer/Artist for Seymour Duncan

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post
                    I've never heard of a metric toggle switch . . .
                    It's a term some companies use to refer to an "import" switch, as opposed to the USA Switchcraft.

                    https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/...le-switch.html

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                    • #11
                      ok. Tore it back apart. Rewired. Same result. Although I did do the 50's wiring and now I have independent volume controls now which is wicked cool. I'm concluding these pots are crap or I may have cooked them. I barely try to turn either volume pot and the pickup completely shuts off.

                      Went back through my order history to make sure I haven't stuck linear tapers and no, only audio taper pots for my other 2 guitars I've rewired. Volumes work as they should with audio tapers. First go with Bourns. Going back to CTS. It's fine anyways as I really am not digging on the no friction feel of the Bourns ones compared to the CTS.

                      I'll update when I get the new pots. I may try a different type of cap too

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post

                        It's a term some companies use to refer to an "import" switch, as opposed to the USA Switchcraft.

                        https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/...le-switch.html
                        Wow, that's strange: the bushing height, diameter, are all in inches. Well, ok, learn something new every day.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post

                          Wow, that's strange: the bushing height, diameter, are all in inches. Well, ok, learn something new every day.
                          I hadn't noticed that before. I wonder if that's something American companies do, just as a convenience?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post

                            Wow, that's strange: the bushing height, diameter, are all in inches. Well, ok, learn something new every day.
                            Yeah I saw that was weird too. I didn't get mine from stew mac. I got it off reverb. Matches the dimensions of the stew mac one, I will add in case anyone should happen across this thread that it does drop right into an Artcore without reaming the hole. Same size as the stock PCB switch.

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