Fretboard cleaner and oil

[beaubrummels]

I use Gibson fret board cleaner/treatment. Darkens at first, dries to normal color afterward. Can't tell if it's helping or not. Probably would take 10 years to tell.

[dave74]

Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use.
I wouldn't put anything food-based on my guitars anyway. Risks rancidity and might even attract pests.
Most so-called lemon products for wood (furniture or fretboards) actually are lemon-scented mineral oil which is fine.

I used Formby's Lemon Oil for furniture on my guitars over a period of decades without any ill effects.
Mineral oil based; not sure it's made anymore. Still have half a bottle somewhere on the back shelf.
A few years back I switched to Fret Doctor bore oil; it absorbs quickly.

Today most players understand that oiling a rosewood board is really more a cosmetic treatment than a matter of maintenence.
And you don't need to do it very often, maybe every year or two, or when a board actually starts to look dry.
Ebony needs it even less often. Some say not at all.
I do my ebony boards with Feed N Wax anyway, but only at intervals of three to five years.

One thing about ebony is, it really needs to be kept well humidified. All guitar woods need this, not just acoustics.
But ebony is particularly sensitive - it shrinks more than rosewood if it gets dried out and that can cause serious problems.
Regrettably, I know this from costly personal experience.

Every guitar is happier when it's well-humidified.
IMO staying on top of that is more important than oiling your fretboards.
Of course those who dwell in humid climes don't need to worry much about it.

Yes ebony really hates low humidity for long periods. I've seen many ebony boards with splits in the wood because of being in constant dryness.
They really do split in a brittle fashion too. I suppose if one has an ebony board out in dryness all the time it's a good practice to lightly oil it often.

[JB_From_Hell]

Howard Feed'N'Wax and a microfiber cloth.

Howard Feed-N-Wax Oil-based Wood Polish and Conditioner (1-Pint) in the Wood Conditioners department at Lowes.com

Same. I got turned onto that by Warwick bass owners. Many Warwicks only have oil finishes on the body and neck. Howard’s was recommended as a several times a year protectant, and I’ve started using it on my fretboards, as well.

My skin doesn’t like most of the fretboard conditioners, and I end up with dry and peeling hands after using them. No such issues with the Howard’s.

[solspirit]

Well I looked this morning and no Ebony fret boards. It looks like 4 rosewood, 1 maple, 2 that I have no idea. One of them looks like it may be rosewood but I have my doubts and another one on an old Harmony that looks like it's dyed.
oh yeah, I live on the plains in NM, so it gets pretty dry here.

[eclecticsynergy]

Yes ebony really hates low humidity for long periods. I've seen many ebony boards with splits in the wood because of being in constant dryness.
They really do split in a brittle fashion too. I suppose if one has an ebony board out in dryness all the time it's a good practice to lightly oil it often.

Agreed. But my point was that oil and moisture are two separate issues.

Woods can tolerate lack of oil just fine; it only affects the look.
Drying out from lack of moisture can actually cause problems or even do actual damage.


Acoustic owners tend to be aware of this, but those with electrics need to keep it in mind as well.

EDIT: I suppose a good coating of oil might help ebony lose its moisture more slowly, sort of a protective barrier. Still, after my '74 Guild dried out too much and needed a complete refret plus crack repairs where the fretboard had actually pulled away from the guitar's top, I'm careful to keep all ebony boards in cases with humidification myself.

[solspirit]

Agreed. But my point was that oil and moisture are two separate issues.

Woods can tolerate lack of oil just fine; it only affects the look.
Drying out from lack of moisture can actually cause problems or even do actual damage.


Acoustic owners tend to be aware of this, but those with electrics need to keep it in mind as well.

EDIT: I suppose a good coating of oil might help ebony lose its moisture more slowly, sort of a protective barrier. Still, after my '74 Guild dried out too much and needed a complete refret plus crack repairs where the fretboard had actually pulled away from the guitar's top, I'm careful to keep all ebony boards in cases with humidification myself.

What do you use for humidification?

[eclecticsynergy]

What do you use for humidification?

A few have the DiMarzio ones with the synthetic microcell sponge inside. My #1 Les Paul has couple of porous ceramic disks someone gave me years ago, which were designed to retain moisture and do it pretty well.

But most of them get a regular kitchen sponge that I dampen periodically. At home when the heat's running I'll do that every six weeks or so.
Otherwise, once every couple of months. But I monitor the ebony boards and acoustic guitars more carefully than the others.

First took to keeping a moist sponge in my case back in the 70s, on the advice of a friend who knows his stuff (was Yes' touring guitar tech and later became a celebrated luthier). Sponges have worked fine for ever since - cheap and simple. Never had a problem with mildew. Wouldn't do it in any case that ever had a mold issue, though.

My only serious dryness victims have been two acoustics that languished forgotten during some difficult years.

Have occasionally thought about buying a bunch of mini hygrometers on eBay.

[solspirit]

Where do you place the sponge? At the base, under the neck?

[dave74]

Agreed. But my point was that oil and moisture are two separate issues.

Woods can tolerate lack of oil just fine; it only affects the look.
Drying out from lack of moisture can actually cause problems or even do actual damage.


Acoustic owners tend to be aware of this, but those with electrics need to keep it in mind as well.

EDIT: I suppose a good coating of oil might help ebony lose its moisture more slowly, sort of a protective barrier. Still, after my '74 Guild dried out too much and needed a complete refret plus crack repairs where the fretboard had actually pulled away from the guitar's top, I'm careful to keep all ebony boards in cases with humidification myself.

Yep. That was my point also, that they are separate issues and that you can use very light oiling to create a barrier to the dryness.
It's like on tung-oiled guitars. The tung creates a harder more resistant "skin", but it still needs occasional oiling (even on hard-maple) to maintain the sealing effect.
Oil also helps guard against excessive moisture and sweat like the Florida boys have.

I only have solid body guitars but still do my best to keep them in a mid-humidity environment, and then use occasional oiling.
Here in the Midwest we don't have much spring and fall anymore. It's often more of a day to day thing.
Those(spring/fall) are the hardest to control for me because the heat/AC doesn't run and I do not have automated humidity control.

It must be a real headache to have hollow-bodies in some regions. You'd just have to use the sponges and/or have complete auto humidifier systems for the house or room.

[eclecticsynergy]

Where do you place the sponge? At the base, under the neck?

In the accessory compartment. The sponges aren't ever actually wet, only damp. But I avoid direct contact with the instrument anyway.

I keep a stick or two of myrrh incense in each case too, a habit begun back when the guitars used to get packed up night after night with their straps sweat-soaked. Keeps straps & cases from getting funky.

[solspirit]

In the accessory compartment. The sponges aren't ever actually wet, only damp. But I avoid direct contact with the instrument anyway.

I keep a stick or two of myrrh incense in each case too, a habit begun back when the guitars used to get packed up night after night with their straps sweat-soaked. Keeps straps & cases from getting funky.

Thanks I'm going to do that.

[Condemned soul]

"Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use."

Been using Old English on all of my guitar fingerboards since the late 60's.

Have an old Epiphine Casio, that I purchased used in about 1973, and I've only used Old English on it. A couple of years ago, I must have applied too much and didn't get it all wiped off because a couple of fretboard makers started to lift and needed to be reglued.

So, I have to ask, what damage does Old English cause?

[ehdwuld]

"Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use."

Been using Old English on all of my guitar fingerboards since the late 60's.

Have an old Epiphine Casio, that I purchased used in about 1973, and I've only used Old English on it. A couple of years ago, I must have applied too much and didn't get it all wiped off because a couple of fretboard makers started to lift and needed to be reglued.

So, I have to ask, what damage does Old English cause?

He is referring to lemon juice / food products
citric acid

Yeah not from the grocery isle
the furniture stuff
I used formby until a girl moved in and polished all my furniture and used it all
When i went to replace it
Old English was the brand i found

[GuitarStv]

"Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use."

Been using Old English on all of my guitar fingerboards since the late 60's.

Have an old Epiphine Casio, that I purchased used in about 1973, and I've only used Old English on it. A couple of years ago, I must have applied too much and didn't get it all wiped off because a couple of fretboard makers started to lift and needed to be reglued.

So, I have to ask, what damage does Old English cause?

Shouldn't cause any. But Old English doesn't contain any actual lemon oil. https://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/...rePolishLemon/