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Help with damaged Floyd Rose bridge!!

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  • Help with damaged Floyd Rose bridge!!

    Hi everyone!
    I have a Washburn N1 model, which I had modified a year ago. Now, it has a Schaller tremolo, locking tuners and new pickups. The thing here is that the bridge was total CRAP!!! The saddles wore out really fast, one of the string blocks (and its screw) was broken for no reason at all, and worst of all, the intonation screw holes of two strings got stripped, making the high e string completely unusable. I never gave the bridge a different use than the expected one. (I don't know why I can't attach images here)

    I replaced it for a brand new 1000 series FR bridge, in order to have my guitar as functional as before (it is not installed yet), but I still want to repair my Schaller tremolo since I consider it has a lot of good things, despite the previously mentioned issues.

    The tremolo has some squared figured bases in the base plate, specifically were the intonation screws are placed. Those figures are the ones responsible por securing the screws. I would like to know if there's any place I can buy them or even have them made, so I can install them and that way restoring the tremolo's functionality. (I'm really sorry I couldn't upload any pictures, I don't know what's wrong with the site).

    I'll really appreciate all the input!
    Last edited by FerMetalhead1; 08-14-2021, 10:11 PM.

  • #2
    I don’t have an answer, but it’s odd that the Schaller wore out like that, since Schaller makes the real Floyd Rose bridges.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    • #3
      Sounds like victim of major over-tightening.

      Maybe check Floyd Upgrades or even the real Floyd Rose website for something compatible.


      • #4
        Check out FU Tone. They make decent stuff.
        Ain't nothin' but a G thang, baby.


        • #5
          Yes, FU Tone makes titanium parts which fit on many FR bridges. They are pricey, but get excellent reviews.
          Dave, Ambassador/Writer/Artist for Seymour Duncan


          • #6
            Originally posted by dave74 View Post
            Sounds like victim of major over-tightening.

            Most of us have a tendency to unnecessarily overtighten each and every screw on a Floyd. In reality, a fraction of the torque used would be enough. Learning how not to overtighten allows for a surprisingly lot of mileage from even Floyd Specials or unbranded OEM stuff, let alone a Schaller.

            That being said, like the others suggested, FU Tone is a great place to start, Adam is a great guy and a pleasure to deal with in my experience.

            Schaller sells replacent parts too:


            With Floyd Origonal parts, it might be worth checking out exact dimensions, just in case...


            • #7
              Here is an endorsement of FU Tone parts from Eddie's tech.
              The Floyd section starts at about the 5 minute mark, FU parts around 6:30-ish.
              There's something wrong with the overall audio editing in this program, but whatever...the information is there.


              • #8
                I want to know more about the "Schaller" bridge you used. From the quality issues you are suggesting, it sounds like it might have been a Schaller-style bridge, but not necessarily made by Schaller in Germany.

                If it's a genuine Schaller bridge and has the steel inserts beneath the intonation bolt holes, then you definitely over-tightened them. Older Schallers had solid Zinc baseplates that would strip easily and those square steel inserts were designed to solve exactly that issue.

                Cracked string blocks and broken screws also suggest that either a) it isn't a real Schaller piece or b) you are cranking things down much too hard

                Pics would help. I recommend using Imgur to host photos (free + pre-formatted links for forum use)


                • #9
                  Yes, what Masta' C said, Schaller does make the original Floyd's with the hardened steel baseplates, but they also made the Schaller version with the thicker baseplate and shorter locking screws. Both are fine trems, but the older Schaller baseplates were made of softer metal and not hardened. It might be possible to repair the baseplate with helical inserts, but probably just as easy to contact Schaller and get a replacement baseplate, I had to do that for an old USA Hamer. Their new "thick" baseplates have hardened inserts (or may just be hardened) because of this issue. You'll have to order it directly from Schaller in Germany, but when I got one I think it was only $30 or so and shipping was reasonable.


                  And as noted, it sounds like you may be overtightening stuff.