NGD! 1987 Charvel Model 5!

[NjuiMusic]

Hello! Long time no talk! Hope you've all been well, I got a new guitar today, first time in a while!

Link to picture of guitar: https://ibb.co/wsp5g06

Got myself this really cool Charvel Model 5! I was wondering what my bridge swap options are however since the JT6 is just not good.. Looking to swap without having to drill or whatever. Just easy swap. Heard OFR or GE1996T are my 2 main options, is this true?

Also sorry about the picture, it isn't letting me upload one directly!

[Hsb]

Congrats on the NGD. What is it you dont like from the current pus or want from new on pus. Also help if we knew what type of music do you listen to and play?

Are those active or passive or active pickups in rhe guitar. You should be able to swap in any pickup of the same variety you wish

[Mincer]

What an awesome guitar! Congrats!

[Ashurbanipal]

Nice axe - aged white is hard to beat!

Regarding the bridge, yes, OFR/Schaller Lockmeister (or original Schaller, which looks like your stock one) or GE1996T should drop in. All are good, the main difference would be the radius - Gotoh is 14" while Floyd/Schaller is 10" (12" with preinstalled shims), so check your fingerboard radius. The Gotoh is also a bit cheaper and more forgiving about stud spacing because the straight knife edge is fairly wide, though 74mm is usual for most locking trems.

[dave74]

Is that third knob an active mid-boost? My old RR-professional had it and I ended up leaving it in when swapping to the emg81 bridge. Together they were a bit noisy but the gain was mega.

Is the nut one of those weird ones with the lockers actually behind the nut? If so I'm suggesting to leave it alone if it doesn't bother you. I've seen them modded well to standard design, but I've also seen them done very poorly.

[Aceman]

I could rock that!

[NjuiMusic]

Is that third knob an active mid-boost? My old RR-professional had it and I ended up leaving it in when swapping to the emg81 bridge. Together they were a bit noisy but the gain was mega.

Is the nut one of those weird ones with the lockers actually behind the nut? If so I'm suggesting to leave it alone if it doesn't bother you. I've seen them modded well to standard design, but I've also seen them done very poorly.

I'm not sure, I haven't had time to actually test it yet since it acme to me very dirty so I spent the better part of yesterday cleaning it. Also for the nut, it just seems like a normal locking nut on most guitars seen today with a floyd.

[NjuiMusic]

Congrats on the NGD. What is it you dont like from the current pus or want from new on pus. Also help if we knew what type of music do you listen to and play?

Are those active or passive or active pickups in rhe guitar. You should be able to swap in any pickup of the same variety you wish

They are active, plan on eventually swapping in EMGs, but I was asking about the actual floyd style bridge, not the bridge pickup haha

[Hsb]

They are active, plan on eventually swapping in EMGs, but I was asking about the actual floyd style bridge, not the bridge pickup haha

Oops, sleep deprivation does things like that toba person

[dave74]

OK, so if it's stock it should have the active mid-boost controlled by that 3rd knob, and it also looks like the lockers are behind the nut unless it's been modded standard.

https://www.axebition.com/electric-g...harvel-model-5


edit; And also cool on these, like my old 88 orange-crackle neck-thru, they have a back-angled neck-thru design and the top-mount bridge.
I've always considered the neck's angle to be an advantage like on the typical set-neck guitars, like an LP with a floyd.

[JMP/HBE]

Love my 87' model # 2.

[Ascension]

Nice axe - aged white is hard to beat!

Regarding the bridge, yes, OFR/Schaller Lockmeister (or original Schaller, which looks like your stock one) or GE1996T should drop in. All are good, the main difference would be the radius - Gotoh is 14" while Floyd/Schaller is 10" (12" with preinstalled shims), so check your fingerboard radius. The Gotoh is also a bit cheaper and more forgiving about stud spacing because the straight knife edge is fairly wide, though 74mm is usual for most locking trems.

Would go to the Gotoh as would be a drop in system and IMO they are the best of the current Floyd variants. A real Floyd would be a second choice but you may run into issues of the post spacing. I would stay far away from from the Schaller unless it's an actual real Floyd. I despise the thick base plate Schallers as have fought with them on both Washburn USA guitars and 1990's Carvins for years IMO they are utter JUNK!
Those are some really cool guitars and it's been a while since I have seen a nice one congrats!

[AdrianSD]

The GE1996T studs are wider and slightly longer than the Jackson or the FR trems, drilling is required.

[Ashurbanipal]

If the op is going to upgrade the studs/inserts to Gotoh ones, then yes, drilling will be necessary. Because of their length, I would do some measuring to make sure they don't end up poking through to the spring cavity at the back.

Gotoh studs are locking, they have a small set screw in the middle which you screw down when you've set up your action, and it locks against the insert base. As said above, there is consensus among folk that this is one of the best out there, certainly people like John Suhr think so - he switched from OFR to Gotoh years ago on his guitars.

[AdrianSD]

Yep, the Gotoh studs locking system is in itself a fine example of clever engineering. I have this trem in 2 of my guitars: a MIM Jackson DK2 and an Indonesian made ESP LTD M200, both recessed so I'm thinking it should work perfectly fine in a top mount Charvel. Afaik the latest MIJ Jackson Dinkys are also coming with the Gotoh GE1996T from the factory.