PRS S2 Standard 24?

[Rex_Rocker]

Are these guitars any good? Are they worth the money?

The specs seem pretty stripped down for a guitar this expensive, but I wonder if the build quality is worth it? How is the fretwork on these?

I have a lower-end Gibson Les Paul Tribute that looks pretty rustic and plays OK, but sounds incredible. I wonder if this is sorta what it's like with the PRS? Or does it have the higher-end PRS playability as well?

Not sure how I feel about it having the cheapie bridge. Not too concerned about the import pickups since I have a set of Fishmans I could drop in, but is the bridge something that needs replacing? I don't really intend to do lots of trem action, but I wonder how it sounds. The higher-end PRS trems are well regarded as being good-sounding (other than functioning well), but is this import bridge something that's going to need replacing?

Thanks!

[Masta' C]

The S2 guitars are basically SE's made in the U.S. with even fewer features, LOL!

I've had two S2 models now and I can confirm that they were both very nice, but I got the same bridge and pickups on my Custom 24 SE with a much classier looking top for several hundred less and I like it more than either S2 I had after a swap to the Core series nut (~$10) and a set of locking tuners (~$60).

The inlays are also much nicer on the SE models (typically pearloid instead of plain white plastic like the S2's) and the back covers don't sit proud of the body like they do on the S2, which drove me nuts about those guitars. Fretwork was basically identical between all of them...pretty much perfect out of the box, even on the Indonesian-made SE!

For me, the S2 Standard gets a 9 for playability, but a 4 for features. Overall rating: 6.5/10
My stock SE was a 7 for playability out of the box (due to nut issues), but an 8 for features. Overall rating: 7.5/10
With the Core series nut swap and some drop-in locking tuners, which cost about $75 total, playability of the SE is on par with the S2's and the features are now 9/10. Overall rating: 9.5/10

As for your question about the bridge and whether it needs replacing...absolutely not! Is it the nicest bridge ever made? Definitely not, but PRS uses the same bridge on the SE, S2, and CE models and it has proven to be very stable and reliable. I haven't thought that the bridge detracted at all from the response or sound of any of the models I've played. Changing it would be optional, not mandatory, in my opinion.

[Rex_Rocker]

How about the tone? I'm talking about unplugged, of course, since the pickups would be swapped out in either. Don't the higher quality mahogany, brass-impregnated nut, and thin nitro finish make a difference on the S2's?

I've had four SE's, and while none have been bad per se, I've always bonded more with my LTD's better (as far as Korean guitars go). I have never tried one of the newer Cort-made Indonesian new ones, though. Are they better?

Thanks for the reply!

[Masta' C]

The S2 uses the same bronze-impregnated Graphite nut as the Core series and that's exactly what I put on my SE.

Is the Core series nut an improvement over the stock SE nut? Absolutely! At least it was for me because whomever cut the nut in Indonesia did a sad job with the slots, but the SE material was also a bit different. Still, an easy remedy for any SE and you can get a 2-pack of genuine PRS Core series nuts for like $20!

I had two S2 models (and a Core before that) and ended up keeping the SE, as I said before. My SE is actually a very vibrant guitar to play, way moreso than my $4K Core model was (that thing felt dead acoustically and it was a "Wood Library" custom!).

I'm not implying that the Core model didn't feel a tad bit more premium overall, but in terms of the effects of the woods and finish, the difference wasn't night and day in MY case. Same with the S2's...they weren't particularly different to my SE in terms of acoustic qualities and response. The best sounding PRS I've played unplugged was actually an older CE model with the bolt-on neck!

Now, I'm not saying a newer SE is the be-all, end-all of budget guitars...it's not. It's just that I'd have a hard time justifying another S2 model unless I WANTED a more basic aesthetic/feature set or the S2 happened to be a model not available in the SE lineup.

To your last question...Are Indonesian-made SE's better than the older Korean-made versions? That's tough to say. I've played winners and duds in the Korea lineup, but have rather limited experience with the newer Indonesian stuff. I suspect there's not a ton of difference and you'll find gems and gremlins from both locations, just as you would with a USA-made PRS. However, PRS has a dedicated production facility at Cort in Indonesia that does seem to ensure very good consistency and quality control and reviews of the newer stuff is very positive overall.

[Mincer]

This is all great info, as I am not very PRS fanboyish, but I could see myself owning one in the future (22 frets, please).

[Rex_Rocker]

The S2 uses the same bronze-impregnated Graphite nut as the Core series and that's exactly what I put on my SE.

Is the Core series nut an improvement over the stock SE nut? Absolutely! At least it was for me because whomever cut the nut in Indonesia did a sad job with the slots, but the SE material was also a bit different. Still, an easy remedy for any SE and you can get a 2-pack of genuine PRS Core series nuts for like $20!

I had two S2 models (and a Core before that) and ended up keeping the SE, as I said before. My SE is actually a very vibrant guitar to play, way moreso than my $4K Core model was (that thing felt dead acoustically and it was a "Wood Library" custom!).

I'm not implying that the Core model didn't feel a tad bit more premium overall, but in terms of the effects of the woods and finish, the difference wasn't night and day in MY case. Same with the S2's...they weren't particularly different to my SE in terms of acoustic qualities and response. The best sounding PRS I've played unplugged was actually an older CE model with the bolt-on neck!

Now, I'm not saying a newer SE is the be-all, end-all of budget guitars...it's not. It's just that I'd have a hard time justifying another S2 model unless I WANTED a more basic aesthetic/feature set or the S2 happened to be a model not available in the SE lineup.

To your last question...Are Indonesian-made SE's better than the older Korean-made versions? That's tough to say. I've played winners and duds in the Korea lineup, but have rather limited experience with the newer Indonesian stuff. I suspect there's not a ton of difference and you'll find gems and gremlins from both locations, just as you would with a USA-made PRS. However, PRS has a dedicated production facility at Cort in Indonesia that does seem to ensure very good consistency and quality control and reviews of the newer stuff is very positive overall.

OK, awesome! Thanks for the info.

TBH, I can live without the bird inlays and the fancy top as long as the tone and, especially, the fretwork is better on the S2's... but if it's not, I'm definitely going to start considering an SE. These days they aren't cheap either! But maybe that's for a reason.

[Rex_Rocker]

This is all great info, as I am not very PRS fanboyish, but I could see myself owning one in the future (22 frets, please).

Yeah, I think I'd prefer the 22 fretter as well as far as tone goes on the neck pickup, but the 24 has the thinner neck.

[Masta' C]

The Pattern Regular neck is decent, but I agree...the Pattern Thin is perfection! Neck profile is very subjective, of course

[Mincer]

Is the Pattern Thin their thinnest? Anything you can compare it to?

[Rex_Rocker]

Is the Pattern Thin their thinnest? Anything you can compare it to?

Kinda sort of in between a thin Fender C neck (sorry, not a Fender conossieur) and a Gibson 60's. Slighty thinner than a Gibson 60's, IIRC, but not Ibanez thin. Not D-shaped either, but very C-shaped, rather. It's got a rounder fretboard sorta like a modern Fender, but it's wider sorta like a Gibson. Bigger frets than vintage for sure, but not Ibanez huge.

[Mincer]

Kinda sort of in between a thin Fender C neck (sorry, not a Fender conossieur) and a Gibson 60's. Slighty thinner than a Gibson 60's, IIRC, but not Ibanez thin. Not D-shaped either, but very C-shaped, rather. It's got a rounder fretboard sorta like a modern Fender, but it's wider sorta like a Gibson. Bigger frets than vintage for sure, but not Ibanez huge.

thanks! i think i would really like that.

[Rex_Rocker]

Yeah, it's a very comfy thin neck profile. I used to have one in a Paul Allender SE. That guitar looked beautiful and played great but sounded super dead. Great neck, though. That one was special in that it had a flatter board radius. Pretty sure it was either 14 or flatter.

I can live with the 10" radius, though. I used to think not, but I can play my Squier with a 9.5 no issues. I would prefer flatter... but if the rest of the guitar is nice, it's not a deal breaker.