banner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wiring problems

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cyrus
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    I've found a similar wiring diagram on the ibanez site:



    Its not exactly what I want but I'm gonna try it out anyway because I'm not sure if i'll use the bridge single coil much so it might be a nice idea to have the both hum / both single option on there.

    Was I right in thinking that if I want to change which coil I'm using for the split i just change which wire I use as hot (Green / Black)?
    Last edited by Cyrus; 10-22-2004, 10:53 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kent S.
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    Originally posted by ArtieToo
    Normally, and I use that term loosely, that switch would work like this:
    (1's connect together, and 2's connect together)

    #1. [1]...[0]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[2]...[0]...[0]

    #2. [1]...[1]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[2]...[2]...[0]

    #3. [0]...[1]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[2]...[0]

    #4. [0]...[1]...[1]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[2]...[2]

    #5. [0]...[0]...[1]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[0]...[2]

    Notice that the middle two terminals, (4 & 5), are the "commons", that connect progressively from left to right on either side. First, one terminal, then two, then one, etc.

    Also, I have seen variations of this arrangement, which is why its always better to test each position with a meter.

    Artie

    Edit: btw - when I get home, I'll update that text version drawing with a "real" pic.
    Artie, the RG320 has that damn SC/2502 N switch ...
    I did a theoretical layout for a guy over a year and a half ago, with no guarantee ... that set up uses a real odd ball of a switch, never had one in my hands so I couldn't verify it's contact pattern. It's meter time for the guy that has it ...try the Ibanez site again, the image worked just fine for me (their site does do that sometimes).

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyrus
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    Ok thanks
    In the mean time I'll see if I can get it working with that in mind. I think the old setup was like this:

    [Br]...[L]...[N]...[V]...[L?]...[G]...[W (L?)]...[]

    Br = Bridge Hot
    N = Neck not
    L = Linked
    G = Grounded
    W = Wire (Dont know what It was)

    Something like that anyway. There were 2 wires on the 'W' terminal, one was linked to something else, and one was from a pickup. I cant remember which terminal it was linked to though. Maybe it was W linked to the other link with the ?.

    Thanks again for the help

    Edit: If anyone has wiring diagram for an Ibanez RG320 that would help alot The pic on the ibanez site doesn't work for some reason.
    Last edited by Cyrus; 10-22-2004, 08:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ArtieToo
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    Normally, and I use that term loosely, that switch would work like this:
    (1's connect together, and 2's connect together)

    #1. [1]...[0]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[2]...[0]...[0]

    #2. [1]...[1]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[2]...[2]...[0]

    #3. [0]...[1]...[0]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[2]...[0]

    #4. [0]...[1]...[1]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[2]...[2]

    #5. [0]...[0]...[1]...[1]...[2]...[0]...[0]...[2]

    Notice that the middle two terminals, (4 & 5), are the "commons", that connect progressively from left to right on either side. First, one terminal, then two, then one, etc.

    Also, I have seen variations of this arrangement, which is why its always better to test each position with a meter.

    Artie

    Edit: btw - when I get home, I'll update that text version drawing with a "real" pic.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyrus
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    Ok thanks alot,
    Though it was working like that with the stock pickups (2 pups, 5 way, splitting)

    Its hard to tell with these switches whats happening because you cant see any of the contacts or anything so I just got a bit lost.

    Leave a comment:


  • ArtieToo
    replied
    Re: Wiring problems

    Ouch . . . you have a bunch of problems here. The biggest one is, you're trying to use a 5-way switch, (made for 3 pups), to select two pups. Where you have the bridge and neck red/white wires attached to the middle terminal, they will always be shorted, somewhat bypassing the switch.

    Ideally, what you need, is to get a 3-way switch for pup selection, and then a push/pull pot for splitting.

    In the mean time, I'll see what I can "doodle up" with what you have now.

    Stay tuna-ed!

    Artie

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyrus
    started a topic Wiring problems

    Wiring problems

    Hey all,
    I got a pair of 4 wire hummers and a cheap crappy selector switch, and I'm having trouble getting them wired so they work like:
    Neck / Neck Split (outside coil) / Neck + Bridge split / Bridge split (outside coil) / Bridge

    I had them wired up okay (I think...) but when the neck split it was using the inside coil, so I changed the hot wire to green and put the black to ground.
    For the splitting, I've put red+white cables from each pup onto the middle terminal.
    Heres the weird part; when I plug the guitar in, and touch the terminals the pickups are soldered to, no matter where the switch is it gives buzzing sound (Example; I'm touching the bridge terminal, but switch is in neck position, it still buzzes). Shouldn't it be silent because the terminal isn't selected?

    And also, positions 2 and 4 sound exactly the same. (Sound much more like the bridge split on both).

    I dont know what I've done wrong but it seems like I might have killed the selector switch.

    Switch layout (all terminals stick out on the same side of the switch):

    B......B+N....N.......V......*1.....G......*1..... *
    [].......[].....[]......[]......[]......[]......[].....[]

    B = Bridge Hot
    B+N = Bridge + Neck red+white wires
    N = Neck hot
    V = To volume pot
    G = To ground
    * = nothing

    With the old pickups (Same setup...Actually worked) there were wires on the terminals with *1 marked above them. These terminals don't seem to do anything (dont make any live buzzing in any switch position when touched) so I let them be, but I guess that might be part of my problem? The colour codes on the old pups were different, and I tried putting the new ones in the same (or what I assumed was the same) but they didn't work.

    Thanks in advance,
    Sean
    Last edited by Cyrus; 10-22-2004, 07:20 AM.
Working...
X