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And just to clarify, Jack is correct. There's more than one way to "skin a kat", so to speak. Ultimately, what needs to be understood, is that if you want to "kill" the stud coil, you short out black and white. And if you want to "kill" the screw coil, you short out red and green. It doesn't matter, electrically, how you accomplish that. (Talking Seymour Duncan pups here. Others may be different.)
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Originally posted by WDeeGee View PostCoil split to activate the adjustable screw coil. Wiring is incorrect, not sure what the correct way is, but this is not it.
Top drawing is correct, bottom is wrong.
Both are valid methods, just different ways of going about the task. I have used each one successfully in different projects previously. Sometimes because of limitations imposed by the other design elements of the circuit you're working on, you're not able to route the Series Link Pair to Hot like in Method 2 BUT your circuit allows you to route it to Ground, so you employ Method 1 to achieve the end result.
Please see the attached summary "slide" I created in quick-and-dirty fashion, for the 2 methods and the short explanation of each I added to the left. Maybe those explanations will clear something up for you.
Why do you believe Method 1 is incorrect? Did you try it and it not worked? If yes, please start a separate thread and I would be glad to help you troubleshoot it.1 PhotoLast edited by Jack_TriPpEr; 01-23-2021, 11:58 PM.
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This is the correct way to wire the coil split to activate the screw coil.
1 Photo
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Coil split to activate the adjustable screw coil. Wiring is incorrect, not sure what the correct way is, but this is not it.
Top drawing is correct, bottom is wrong.1 Photo
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Originally posted by Mincer View PostThank you so much for adding that info to this thread.
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Originally posted by Mincer View Post
Can you explain what is wrong for others visiting this thread?
I added a Red wire that would replace the current, errant Black wire that comes off the volume pot and goes to the 5 way switch.
1 Photo
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Originally posted by beaubrummels View PostThere appears to be a number of drawings on the site like these two:
When I look at them, I would expect them to never produce sound.
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There appears to be a number of drawings on the site like these two:
When I look at them, I would expect them to never produce sound.
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We may be talking semantics. To me, "independent" is necessary for "blend." When I think of blending, I think of having one volume up, and one down. Then you can slowly bring one up to just the desired amount. You need independent to that.
But I can also see your point that if both are "up", you can bring one down just a bit, before it starts to kill the other pup. So, I guess there is some crossover here.
Edit: I just reread your post. You definitely stated that turning either down will kill both. My bad.
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50's wiring is not a blend. You're talking independent wiring.
And you can blend the pickups, just only to a certain degree as I mentioned in my post.
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Originally posted by AlexR View PostBoth.
The middle position does indeed allow for a blend....in fact this is exactly the same wiring diagram as found in a Les Paul (save for the fact they have tone controls too). And just like a Les Paul if you drop the volume of 1 pickup all the way down you shut off the whole sound in the middle position.
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Originally posted by JacobSinger View PostI assumed this wiring, with the switch in the middle position, would allow me to have a blend of each pickups volume, similar to a Les Paul.
Instead, in the middle position, each volume acts as a master for both pickups.
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Thanks very much for your reply, AlexR.
That's cleared that up!
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Both.
The middle position does indeed allow for a blend....in fact this is exactly the same wiring diagram as found in a Les Paul (save for the fact they have tone controls too). And just like a Les Paul if you drop the volume of 1 pickup all the way down you shut off the whole sound in the middle position.
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