HSS - Use S1 switch or no?

[MakerDP]

So I'm in the process of converting my Deluxe Roadhouse Strat into an HSS with a Red Devil in the bridge and some Custom Shop Texas Specials that I have had unused here in a drawer for 15 years or more. I will be taking out the active mid-boost circuit and replacing with all 250k CTS pots and either a .022 or .047 cap... (I'll play with that value. The wiring diagram that came with the CSTS's say use a .022.)

So, how should I wire this up? I also have a new S1 switch coming in with all the other parts because I'm doing an entire pickguard swap in case I want to go back quickly but I am wondering if I even really want/need to use it. I'm thinking auto-split for bridge/middle combo but then what would I use the S1 for? Bridge always on? If I do that, I'm assuming I would want it always on in split mode, correct? Can I even do this with the selector switch controlling auto split? If I end up not using the S1 then oh well... I have it for another project or as a spare for the original setup so no big deal.

Not a fan of the Vintage Noiseless PUPs with the preamp off, but I do like it with the mid-boost on quite a bit... but I figure the TS/Red Devil combo would be a really nice sounding combo for me and my style.


Of course, I am open to other options that this setup could provide as well.

[PFDarkside]

You can do the Elite HSS scheme. PDF below. Or you could use it like the other switch on the HSS, like a blower. Full
Humbucker, no volume or tone.

https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/Original/10001/Fender%20Am%20Elite%20Stratocaster%20HSS%20011411XXXX%20SM%20REV%20B%2003-01-2017.pdf

[ThreeChordWonder]

I rewired my MIM HSS Strat with no less than three push-pushes. Push-pushes in preference to push-pulls because I personally can't get a firm enough grip on Strat knobs to pull them.

The volume push-push adds the neck (S-D SSL-1) in parallel with the bridge in position 1, and by extension brings in all three pickups in parallel in position 2.

The middle tone push-push, wired as the tone control for neck and middle, inverts the phase on the middle pickup (another SSL-1).

The bottom tone push-push acts as the tone for the bridge alone, and coil splits the 59 Custom Hybrid bridge humbucker.

All three push-pushes act independently, giving me oodles of options.

[Mincer]

I don't think splitting the little humbucker is generally worth it. It will sound better in parallel. So, you can use the S1 either as a series/ parallel switch or as a 'bridge on' switch.

[oilpit]

I don't think splitting the little humbucker is generally worth it. It will sound better in parallel. So, you can use the S1 either as a series/ parallel switch or as a 'bridge on' switch.

Can you expand on this? I understand what parallel wiring means, and what it sounds like on paper, but tbh I have never actually heard one irl. How similar is it to a split HB, and a true single coil, respectively.

I have also heard conflicting accounts of whether a parallels humbucker has more or less output than one with one of the coils tapped. My initial assumption, based on your post, would be that you recommend parallel over splitting because it has more output.


Sorry for all the questions, this is one of those pickup things that I've just never learned about.

Thanks!

[Clint 55]

Use the switch as a blower, master volume, master tone, and the tone 2 knob as a neck/bridge blender.

[Mincer]

A little humbucker in parallel has 1.4th the resistance, and probably about 3/5 the output of the same 2 coils in series. Similar frequencies are cancelled, making it a clearer, cleaner sound...but, unlike splitting, it remains hum-cancelling. While I don't like most regular humbuckers in parallel, the little humbuckers sound much better in parallel than split (to me, but experiment).

[MakerDP]

Use the switch as a blower, master volume, master tone, and the tone 2 knob as a neck/bridge blender.

I am intrigued... have a diagram?

[MakerDP]

I don't think splitting the little humbucker is generally worth it. It will sound better in parallel. So, you can use the S1 either as a series/ parallel switch or as a 'bridge on' switch.

I am a heavy pos 2/4 user so to me "better" would mean the new pos 4 sounds as close to pos 4 would with SSS as possible. Which one would do that? I know it's a compromise with HSS but close enough is fine for me on this guitar.

I likely wouldn't use bridge-only in parallel. I have a Godin HSS with a P-Rail in the bridge and I never use parallel mode on that. Perhaps I should experiment with that in pos 4... but I also don't want to have to make two adjustments on the guitar on-the-fly to switch to a "bread and butter" tone.

[Clint 55]

If you don't need to toggle your bridge hum between series and parallel (or split), you could auto split or partial split your position 2. Here's the blender diagram:

https://www.fralinpickups.com/wp-con...ng-617x750.png

Here's the auto split diagram:

https://www.premierguitar.com/media-...y=80&width=700

You can use resistors in place of the ground wire if you want a thicker split tone.

I don't know how the eff to use a s1 switch.

[Mincer]

A split little humbucker can work if it is used in conjunction with another single coil pickup, especially if you wire them to cancel hum. My judgement of split little humbuckers is based on the sound itself, not mixed with any other pickups.

[MakerDP]

A split little humbucker can work if it is used in conjunction with another single coil pickup, especially if you wire them to cancel hum. My judgement of split little humbuckers is based on the sound itself, not mixed with any other pickups.

OK cool... that's why I'm going with the Red Devil to begin with... I never use the bridge alone on an SSS strat because I don't care for that tone.

I'll just wire it for self-split and then I'll have to figure out if there is any use for the S1 at all... either bridge always on or something... or maybe I'll just leave it off.

[MakerDP]

If you don't need to toggle your bridge hum between series and parallel (or split), you could auto split or partial split your position 2. Here's the blender diagram:

https://www.fralinpickups.com/wp-con...ng-617x750.png

Here's the auto split diagram:

https://www.premierguitar.com/media-...y=80&width=700

You can use resistors in place of the ground wire if you want a thicker split tone.

I don't know how the eff to use a s1 switch.

Nice. I like that blender circuit.

The S1 is just a 4PDT switch... nothing terribly fancy but can do some flexible stuff with it. I like it WAY better than a push-pull or even a push-push pot. It takes a much more deliberate action to engage so it doesn't ever get accidentally pushed. I only wish I could get some Les Paul style knobs for it... they do come in 500k.

[PFDarkside]

Nice. I like that blender circuit.

The S1 is just a 4PDT switch... nothing terribly fancy but can do some flexible stuff with it. I like it WAY better than a push-pull or even a push-push pot. It takes a much more deliberate action to engage so it doesn't ever get accidentally pushed. I only wish I could get some Les Paul style knobs for it... they do come in 500k.

I wish I could get one in 25k to use with actives!

[ArtieToo]

I wish I could get one in 25k to use with actives!

Actually, this is pretty simple. Buy a 25k CTS pot. Gently bend back the four tabs of the cover on both pots. (Red arrows.) Swap wafers, and reassemble both. The 25k becomes a spare pot of whatever value your S-1 was, and your S-1 becomes 25k.

You don't need to disassemble the actual switch part as I did. I did that because I'm doing a more extensive experiment.
(Converting it to 6PDT to parallel three Red Devils with one switch.)