Wiring questions on Fender Player Plus Nashville Telecaster Conversion...

[Teleplayer]

Thanks for your kind words. For me its a puzzle to solve when I have spare time. Even if the results are not perfect the first time, its possible to evaluate and change.

To answer your question: yes the tone control works in all positions. For the bridge pickup, using the tone control is an alternative to using a lower value load resistor, so the idea is to find a balance that gives good tone from each pickup position.

Ideally the A2P middle pickup should be run with some extra resistor as well. This issue always comes up when you mix humbuckers and single coils, but there is a limit to how many connections you can put on a standard 5-way blade switch. In the diagram the middle pickup is ONLY running with the resistor in Position 2. I wouldn't add a second resistor for the middle pickup because it will be doubling-up in position 2. You may not need the same value resistor for the middle pickup depending on how you use it.
There are some possible solutions:
1) Adjust the middle pickup height a bit closer to the strings to take some brightness away.
2) Use the tone control rolled off
3) Use a 5-way Superswitch, but only the narrow type that fits a Telecaster route. It allows more options, but be aware they do not have the same quality of action as a regular 5-way blade.

[chuck3]

Thanks for your kind words. For me its a puzzle to solve when I have spare time. Even if the results are not perfect the first time, its possible to evaluate and change.

To answer your question: yes the tone control works in all positions. For the bridge pickup, using the tone control is an alternative to using a lower value load resistor, so the idea is to find a balance that gives good tone from each pickup position.

Ideally the A2P middle pickup should be run with some extra resistor as well. This issue always comes up when you mix humbuckers and single coils, but there is a limit to how many connections you can put on a standard 5-way blade switch. In the diagram the middle pickup is ONLY running with the resistor in Position 2. I wouldn't add a second resistor for the middle pickup because it will be doubling-up in position 2. You may not need the same value resistor for the middle pickup depending on how you use it.
There are some possible solutions:
1) Adjust the middle pickup height a bit closer to the strings to take some brightness away.
2) Use the tone control rolled off
3) Use a 5-way Superswitch, but only the narrow type that fits a Telecaster route. It allows more options, but be aware they do not have the same quality of action as a regular 5-way blade.

Hello Mr Teleplayer; as before thank you for your help!

I've been thinking about your suggestions, and considering my options! And as luck would have it, I happened to have a look through my secret, hidden, and forgotten, (and well, who know's where I put that) stash, and lo and behold I have a brand new Fender 'superity-duperity' Superswitch!

So, I guess, additional possibilities have appeared? I've thought about your idea of using a resistor (as needed) for each pickup, (or would that only be needed on the single coils?), and that sounds like the right way to go! Also, as I mentioned before, I would like the tone control to work at all times.

I have been getting every thing ready for the transformation, just waiting on the resistor order to get in town, maybe another few days!

So, I was wondering if you could please make me one (1) more diagram with your ideas, using the 'Superswitch' and the resistor's (as needed/recommended) for my final effort at transforming this Hecho in Mexico Telecaster?



Just about ready to go! SH2-n Jazz neck, and RWRP Alnico Pro II middle pickups! A Jerry Donahue Tele p/u will go in the bridge.

Thanks in advance for all your help, Regards: Chuck3

PS: you're right about 'the action' on the 'Superswitch'!

[Teleplayer]

Hi Chuck, Nice to see your cool collection of parts. Unfortunately my free time disappeared recently. I'm not sure when I will be able to work on a diagram for you, but I think it may have to wait until the weekend. If you like to try the last version of the wiring, its up to you. I don't know for sure the APS-2 pickup is like with 500k, but I think it could be OK (?).
Otherwise the first step is to figure out what combinations you would like as the default with the push-pull in the down position, then I can look at the wiring design.

[chuck3]

Hi Chuck, Nice to see your cool collection of parts. Unfortunately my free time disappeared recently. I'm not sure when I will be able to work on a diagram for you, but I think it may have to wait until the weekend. If you like to try the last version of the wiring, its up to you. I don't know for sure the APS-2 pickup is like with 500k, but I think it could be OK (?).
Otherwise the first step is to figure out what combinations you would like as the default with the push-pull in the down position, then I can look at the wiring design.

Hello; thanks for your reply! Hey, no hurry, no worries... Sorry to hear your free time recently disappeared!

As far as an answer to your question about the default (with the push-pull down) pickups positions etc: 1) bridge, 2) bridge & middle, 3) middle, 4) middle & (1) of the neck humbucker coils, (I don't know which one, I guess whichever would be 'in phase' with the middle pickup? And, 5) the entire neck humbucker (both coils) only!

Also if you're too busy with life etc, don't worry about it, the last diagram you posted gets me close I guess, I will just have to figure out the differences when using the 'Superswitch' and the possible need for the deferent resistor's etc...

I will do some research and see if I can find a reference book on pickup wiring in general in the mean time!

Thanks again!

Regards: Chuck

[Teleplayer]

Hi Chuck, I've been thinking about the Super-switch wiring and hopefully came up with something to suit what you had in mind. The Push-Pull function only works in position 3, so you can select the combination of Neck(coil split) & Bridge. Its a variation on the version with the stock 5-way posted earlier. Just let me know if anything is unclear or missing.

Unfortunately its really tight for space to install this wiring into a Telecaster control cavity. There isn't much space for the wires, so they need to be roughly the correct length. Placing links across several of the lugs on the super-switch can be quite tricky to do depending on your experience with soldering. The final challenge is to place the load resistors from the correct lug on the superswitch, so they can be grounded at the volume control, without shorting out any other contact. (Its best if the resistor's leads are trimmed and bend to shape before installing). Overall I would rate it as 8/10 difficulty for installation. Its probably far from ideal as a project if you are learning to solder IMO. The previous version with the standard 5-way blade is a bit easier.

The load resistors connected for each switch position:

Position 1: 330k
Position 2: 330k
Position 3: 470k
Position 4: 470k
Position 5: None

[Aceman]

Twangalicious!!!

I don't know if a Jazz will be "vintage" Tele, but like you, I'm not a fan of that whateveritis in the neck. But - I think a Jazz will sound great, and twangy.

I'd have went for a PG in the neck, but if I had goiter, I'd have them replace it with a PG in my own neck!

Chicken' Pick on!!!!

Love to hear a clip/vid of this being played when all done.

[Butch Snyder]

Here you go:

Regards: Chuck3

Wow, looks a lot like mine, very nice.

[chuck3]

Hi Chuck, I've been thinking about the Super-switch wiring and hopefully came up with something to suit what you had in mind. The Push-Pull function only works in position 3, so you can select the combination of Neck(coil split) & Bridge. Its a variation on the version with the stock 5-way posted earlier. Just let me know if anything is unclear or missing.

Unfortunately its really tight for space to install this wiring into a Telecaster control cavity. There isn't much space for the wires, so they need to be roughly the correct length. Placing links across several of the lugs on the super-switch can be quite tricky to do depending on your experience with soldering. The final challenge is to place the load resistors from the correct lug on the superswitch, so they can be grounded at the volume control, without shorting out any other contact. (Its best if the resistor's leads are trimmed and bend to shape before installing). Overall I would rate it as 8/10 difficulty for installation. Its probably far from ideal as a project if you are learning to solder IMO. The previous version with the standard 5-way blade is a bit easier.

The load resistors connected for each switch position:

Position 1: 330k
Position 2: 330k
Position 3: 470k
Position 4: 470k
Position 5: None

Hello my friend; thanks for your reply and efforts!

I'm enclosing some photos, showing what the guitar has in it now, as far as pots etc go. Can't really tell if these are 500k pots are not? I even hooked up my voltmeter and the results were inconclusive? So, now I'm wondering if I should order some 500k pots, (the tone one with a push-pull switch) and start from the beginning on the wiring etc?

When you look at the photos, you will notice the volume pot has some kind of a printed circuit board chip on it, not sure what this does? Of course the Fender 'Noiseless' pickups are actually stacked-coil humbuckers if I'm understanding this right?

I'm just wondering if I should just get rid of all the Fender ****e and start over, as I mentioned above?

I am fairly proficient at the soldering game, as my previous experience in the 'real' world was as marine engineer, working on complete ship propulsion systems etc, and everything that entails! As far as guitars go though, I'm a novice! Only thing I've ever done on guitars is change out pickups; (not much of a soldering challenge there!), I did take apart my neck humbucker and 'flip' the magnet to get the Peter Green 'out-of-phase' sound on my Les Paul R9 ! I will go slow, and be careful!

I think your last diagram will work most excellent for what I am looking for!

Thanks again, Regards: Chuck

Ready to solder:




Good reference material:

Original Fender switch assembly:

[chuck3]

Wow, looks a lot like mine, very nice.

Likewise Butch; very nice! Is that a Fender 'Deluxe' series Nashville Telecaster? If so I believe that's the previous version to the 'Player Plus' series of the one I have? Very good guitars at the price point! How do you get on with the Fender 'Noiseless' pickups? Just curious.

Regards: Chuck

[Teleplayer]

I'm enclosing some photos, showing what the guitar has in it now, as far as pots etc go. Can't really tell if these are 500k pots are not? I even hooked up my voltmeter and the results were inconclusive? So, now I'm wondering if I should order some 500k pots, (the tone one with a push-pull switch) and start from the beginning on the wiring etc?

When you look at the photos, you will notice the volume pot has some kind of a printed circuit board chip on it, not sure what this does? Of course the Fender 'Noiseless' pickups are actually stacked-coil humbuckers if I'm understanding this right?

I'm just wondering if I should just get rid of all the Fender ****e and start over, as I mentioned above?

I am fairly proficient at the soldering game, as my previous experience in the 'real' world was as marine engineer, working on complete ship propulsion systems etc, and everything that entails! As far as guitars go though, I'm a novice! Only thing I've ever done on guitars is change out pickups; (not much of a soldering challenge there!), I did take apart my neck humbucker and 'flip' the magnet to get the Peter Green 'out-of-phase' sound on my Les Paul R9 ! I will go slow, and be careful!

I think your last diagram will work most excellent for what I am looking for!

To measure the control pot values, you need to have them disconnected from the pickups.

The PCB board on the guitar is a treble bleed circuit. That is useful to avoid losing the treble when the volume is turned down. I suggest to remove it, then if you feel you are losing too much treble, you can reinstall it. Without the treble bleed, you may benefit by having a warmer tone when you back off the volume to around 8/1oths, but that's an individual choice.

Glad to hear you have experience with soldering. I attached a photo to show the way I installed the resistors on a Tele control plate. It is only mocked up with recycled components, so it wouldn't be hard to achieve neater results. My assembly standard is poor in the pics. You will notice the super-switch in the pic has a different layout. Mine is a narrow type that was ordered from Stewmac 6 years ago. I notice yours is a Fender one. I would suggest to check if it actually fits in the Telecaster control cavity and there is sufficient space for the pickup leads to be routed beside it.

[chuck3]

To measure the control pot values, you need to have them disconnected from the pickups.

The PCB board on the guitar is a treble bleed circuit. That is useful to avoid losing the treble when the volume is turned down. I suggest to remove it, then if you feel you are losing too much treble, you can reinstall it. Without the treble bleed, you may benefit by having a warmer tone when you back off the volume to around 8/1oths, but that's an individual choice.

Glad to hear you have experience with soldering. I attached a photo to show the way I installed the resistors on a Tele control plate. It is only mocked up with recycled components, so it wouldn't be hard to achieve neater results. My assembly standard is poor in the pics. You will notice the super-switch in the pic has a different layout. Mine is a narrow type that was ordered from Stewmac 6 years ago. I notice yours is a Fender one. I would suggest to check if it actually fits in the Telecaster control cavity and there is sufficient space for the pickup leads to be routed beside it.

Hello my friend! Thanks for your reply/ideas!

I ordered a couple of CTS 500K potentiometers from StewMac, (1) with the push/pull for use on the tone pot.

I figured it would just be easier to start from scratch, and if I keep the original parts intact then I can either reinstall them; if I decide to sell the guitar, or more likely I can just sell the whole assembly on Reverb etc to someone who is looking for the entire 'noiseless' pickup setup. I think I will end up keeping the guitar, as I really like the neck: 12' radius, (like a Gibson etc) and satin finish with rolled fingerboard edges; nothing compares in the price range!

The main reason I purchased this guitar was for playing out. It's just getting to the point where if one of my other guitars is stolen or damaged it would be costly (or impossible) to replace! For instance that Jerry Donahue Custom Shop guitar I included the picture of, cost me $1608.00 new 25 years ago, and now they go for $5-7K, if you can even find one! So, not worth the chance of taking it out nowadays!

Since I play Gibson's and Fenders, that's why I am putting in the Jazz humbucker, to try and make sort of an all around workhorse guitar. Plus I like Danny (Kootch) Kortchmar's playing and he kind of uses a similar setup. Depending on how this turns outs, I'm thinking I may well end up getting another of the Player Plus Nashville Tele's and using a P90 in the neck position!

Anyway, to make short story long; thanks again for all your help! I will post some photos when I get it all done!

Regards: Chuck

[Teleplayer]

I was watching some video of Danny Kortchmar. There are some good tunes and nice guitar parts. A combination of blues lead on the neck pickup, some blues-rock and almost funk-line rhythms. His style reminded me of Clapton.

Its an interesting project when you try to combine a range of pickups together. The 500k pots and loading resistor should offer enough flexibility to make it work. The 500k volume control will loose more treble compared to a 250k when the volume is turned down. However adding the treble bleed circuit may have the opposite effect. Choosing to include the treble bleed will depend a lot on how you use the volume control. If you want a tone that is bright and snappy like a Stratocaster you probably want the treble bleed included, or otherwise keep the volume control set to 10/10ths to avoid the issue.

[Butch Snyder]

Likewise Butch; very nice! Is that a Fender 'Deluxe' series Nashville Telecaster? If so I believe that's the previous version to the 'Player Plus' series of the one I have? Very good guitars at the price point! How do you get on with the Fender 'Noiseless' pickups? Just curious.

Regards: Chuck

It is a 2019 Deluxe Nashville. I've owned about six Delixe Nashville Teles, dating from 1994 (which I still have) to this one. This one is the second of this version. It has changed since my last post in this thread. It now has a Jerry Donahue Tele bridge pickup, an Alnico 2 Pro Strat pickup in the middle, and a Pearly Gates in the neck position. The wiring is still Strat style.

[Teleplayer]

I experimented with splitting the jazz neck (fitted with an Alnico 4 magnet) since my last post. The screw coil was bright and thin. I found the tone of the slug coil was closer to what I expect from a Strat pickup. How do you like the Pearly gates?