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Wiring Question: HH split coil with import style 3 way blade switch

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  • Wiring Question: HH split coil with import style 3 way blade switch

    Hello everyone!

    I am working on my first guitar build and I have a wiring question. I plan to use 2 humbuckers with 1 push/pull volume pot to split the coils, 2 tone knobs, and a 3 way blade switch. I found the diagram on the SD website but the diagram has the standard style 3 way switch and I bought an import style.

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    I found the diagram that explains how to wire the import switch compared to the standard:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	importstyle.png Views:	0 Size:	70.9 KB ID:	6216786

    But looking at my switch, there are jumpers between posts 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 6 and 7

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    From the wiring diagram it doesn't look like I need the jumpers in these positions so do I just snip them out and then wire per the SD diagram?
    Last edited by WildBil52; 01-24-2023, 12:59 PM.

  • #2
    i havent seen a switch like that before. id take a meter to it and see how its connected. im assuming there is a reason for the jumpers? who makes the switch?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by jeremy View Post
      i havent seen a switch like that before. id take a meter to it and see how its connected. im assuming there is a reason for the jumpers? who makes the switch?
      It's a Kaish. I'm just noticing that in the pics on the product page some pictures have all the jumpers I mentioned and some only have pins 4 and 5 bridged, so I'm guessing they want you to clip the bridges you don't need

      Approximately 40mm distance between mounting holes Gold screws 6 32 x 3 16 designed to upgrade the cheap and replace nasty stock switches that come with most guitars and basses Nice durable sturdy switch with metal body one piece shell to minimise flexing damage from any knocking on the switch tip Solid construction w

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      • #4
        I would definitely do as Jeremy suggested...take meter readings on each of the lugs. You have to start with an assumption that probably lugs #4 & #5 are the commons. So set your meter on 20k ohms and test between lugs 1-4, 2-4, 3-4, etc.

        Also, it looks like there is a jumper wire missing in the SD diagram:



        I could be wrong, but I don't see how you will get any output from the neck pup in position #3 (neck only). It looks like the bridge pup should not be connected to the right bottom lug of the switch and there needs to be a jumper wire from the right bottom lug of the switch to the third left lug on the switch (the one that's empty on the diagram).
        Originally Posted by IanBallard
        Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

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        • #5
          4 & 5 are the common terminals. As you move the handle, 4 connects to 123 and 5 connects to 678. When 4 is connected to 1, 5 is connected to 6.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the advice, everyone. After reading this and speaking to a local guitar tech who told me that he has found the CRL style connector to be more reliable that the import style, I am returning the import style switch and have ordered a CRL.

            Also I decided that I don't want 2 tone controls and I am moving the coil split to the single tone knob where I feel it belongs. This will be the diagram that I use:

            Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              Excellent. That diagram looks perfect. Good luck.
              Originally Posted by IanBallard
              Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

              Comment


              • #8
                ive always had better luck with crl style switches, oak grigsby usually, than import style. but there are well made import switches out there, even if that isnt the norm. mv/mt works well for me too

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