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One very odd pickup switch...

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  • One very odd pickup switch...

    I have a 1982 The Strat. Details about this odd model can be found here.

    This is a 2 position switch under what would be the 2nd tone knob on my 1982 The Strat. While replacing the volume pot, I noticed that 41 years has this switch looking pretty corrode-y. Thing is, I realized that if I ever wanted to replace this, I have no idea what I'd replace it with, as I haven't come across a switch that does the same thing.

    So, with this weird switch in position 1, the regular 5 position switch works likes a normal Strat. In position 2, it does:

    1. Bridge
    2. N+B in parallel
    3. N+M in series
    4. N+B in parallel, with the middle in series
    5. M+B in series

    Diagrams online are scarce. There is a diagram in the Fender Stratocaster book, but it is small. I did manage to find this:
    Click image for larger version

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    Attached is a scan at too low a resolution to see details as well as a pic of my actual switch.

    Anyone ever seen a switch that does this? Was this some kind of strange switch made up for this model of guitar?



    Attached Files
    Administrator of the SDUGF

  • #2
    I'm only finding three options...
    1. Make this guy an offer on his $225 NOS switch - https://www.ebay.com/itm/15500478020...13330f29da304c
    2. Improvise something with a Mouser or other rotary switch, if you've figured out how the current one is wired
    3. Sell your broken switch for $13,805.02 plus $11.18 Shipping, and buy a whole nother The Strat; like this guy - https://reverb.com/item/50556319-fen...art-production

    Comment


    • #3
      FWIW I think it might be one of these series. I'd call CTS directly, give them the part number off the switch (I believe it's 0128-017862) and ask if they have a current equivalent and which distributor might have one.

      Comment


      • #4
        Wow, thanks, man! I didn't anticipate the help on this.
        My switch does work just fine, but it doesn't look great, and if something is going to fail on a 40+ year old guitar, you better bet it is going to be the hardest-to-find part there is.
        Administrator of the SDUGF

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by beaubrummels View Post
          I'm only finding three options...
          1. Make this guy an offer on his $225 NOS switch - https://www.ebay.com/itm/15500478020...13330f29da304c
          2. Improvise something with a Mouser or other rotary switch, if you've figured out how the current one is wired
          3. Sell your broken switch for $13,805.02 plus $11.18 Shipping, and buy a whole nother The Strat; like this guy - https://reverb.com/item/50556319-fen...art-production
          That listing is very weird. He lists it as "used-mint", but in his description he says that they are new production. And is that price for just one switch or is it his cost for the 25 that he is ordering? Even if it is his total cost, $550 for one switch is outrageous.

          Wouldn't the current S-1 switch do the same thing? Plus you'd get a push switch instead of a rotary (in my opinion that is a much easier switch to use).
          Originally Posted by IanBallard
          Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mincer View Post
            Wow, thanks, man! I didn't anticipate the help on this.
            My switch does work just fine, but it doesn't look great, and if something is going to fail on a 40+ year old guitar, you better bet it is going to be the hardest-to-find part there is.
            I'd hit that thing with some Deoxit and say my prayers...that's going to be a girl doggie to replace.

            Larry

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by GuitarDoc View Post

              That listing is very weird. He lists it as "used-mint", but in his description he says that they are new production. And is that price for just one switch or is it his cost for the 25 that he is ordering? Even if it is his total cost, $550 for one switch is outrageous.

              Wouldn't the current S-1 switch do the same thing? Plus you'd get a push switch instead of a rotary (in my opinion that is a much easier switch to use).
              I thought of suggesting an S1 or some other generic rotary, but then I couldn't think of how the second position of an S1 would get this on the 5-way:

              1. Bridge
              2. N+B in parallel
              3. N+M in series
              4. N+B in parallel, with the middle in series
              5. M+B in series

              Comment


              • #8
                I think Doc is correct. An S-1 switch should work here. And thanks to beau for those links. That helps to figure out the contacts.

                It appears to be a 4PDT rotary switch. An S-1 is a 4PDT push switch. Here's what I've figured out so far. The top wafer is easy to see. The bottom wafer is a little harder, but I'm fairly sure this is correct. A meter could verify.

                Click image for larger version

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                Comment


                • #9
                  I should've used a different color than yellow on that diagram.

                  On the blue switch, Cx connects to 1x in one position. Cx connects to 2x in the other.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thing about an S1 (I use a few in other guitars), is that the knobs for these guitars are pretty special and wouldn't allow the S1 to work (look at the page I linked to in the first post to see what I mean).
                    Administrator of the SDUGF

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                    • #11
                      BTW, I have a call and an email in at CTS, to see if they have anything like this still in production. I was also thinking that a switch like this might have been used for something else outside of guitars. I know Fender didn't make a ton of these instruments, so there is a chance they didn't get it custom made.
                      Administrator of the SDUGF

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I believe the CTS-212 pdf document that Beau linked to is what you want. You want the "T" style switch, and I'm pretty sure you want these parameters:

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The last number of that part # should probably be a "2", for 30-deg's rotation. That's what your switch has now. (As measured by the "blue" pic.)

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                          • #14
                            Also, while we are here, I'd like to say how much I love this switching for a Strat. I don't have another Strat now, but if I get one, I would absolutely consider trying to do this with an S1. I might need help on the wiring though.
                            Administrator of the SDUGF

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              those are some interesting options for sure. im sure id use 1, 2 & 5. how do 3 & 4 sound?


                              1. Bridge
                              2. N+B in parallel
                              3. N+M in series
                              4. N+B in parallel, with the middle in series
                              5. M+B in series

                              Comment

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