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  • Shielding question

    Hey guys, how necessary is it to shield a humbucker guitar? I get the impression it's more useful with single coil guitars, but I know it's sometimes done on humbucker guitars. I've found the foil to be kind of difficult to work with, has anyone tried using shielding paint, and is there anyplace other than Stewart Macdonald that sells it? I only need enough for one guitar, so I don't really need an entire half pint container. And finally, what's the best way to ground the shield, since you can't really solder to it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Ryan
    Originally posted by JOLLY
    I'm the reason we had to sign waivers

  • #2
    Re: Shielding question

    The paint works great as long as you use 3 coats, letting each one dry overnight. You solder your ground wire to a ring connector, then just put a wood screw through the ring and into the shielded wood.

    I don't know of any other source for the stuff though... the foil is cheaper if you're just doing one guitar.

    Don't forget shielded wire to & from the 3-way switch if it's a longer run.

    Chip
    Heritage 535 Special, Warmoth frankenstrat, MIM Strat, & Taylor 314C(no E)
    Amp Builds: Tweed Princeton (5F2-A) variation, 2 BF Princeton Reverb clones, & Super Reverb clone
    Sometimes use a Blues Jr., Tech 21 Trademark 10 & Power Engine 60
    SPG modded DS-1, TS-7 & CryBaby; Visual Sounds Rte. 66 & H2O; Guyatone Tremolo
    SD pickups: SSL-2, APS-2, tapped Quarter Pound, Custom 5 & Antiquity humbuckers

    "Conan! What are the best things in life?"
    "Girls, guitars, guns and cars!"

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    • #3
      Re: Shielding question

      Originally posted by rspst14
      what's the best way to ground the shield, since you can't really solder to it? Any help would be appreciated.
      That's exctly why I use and recomend the copper shielding tape. It' much easier to ensure everything gets grounded. I also find the copper is quicker and easier than paint because you don't have to wait around for two or three coats to dry. I used to think the copper was a pain too, but after doing a few guitars I will never go back to paint.

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      • #4
        Re: Shielding question

        I've tried the foil before, but I've actually found it to be harder to work with, especially in tight places. One thing I should mention, the pickups mount directly to the body, which means the grounded baseplate will be touching the shielding. Assuming I apply a continuous coat of shielding paint to the entire pickup and electronics cavities, will that be sufficient to ground the shielding? Thanks.

        Ryan
        Originally posted by JOLLY
        I'm the reason we had to sign waivers

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        • #5
          Re: Shielding question

          Gibson guy here...wouldn't know why anyone would even ask this question if I hadn't just seen the worst Eric Johnson show ever the other night. The only time the buzz wasn't flanging with the cymbals was when he played his SG. Great playing as always but the buzz was so bad I almost left. I kept thinking "what a pure-ist" dudes got a reverse wound mid and will only use 2 & 4 when it's tone appropriate." I stopped here cause of probably Eric, but it's funny, in the Zak thread I was beating up EMG's, in the Jazz pickup thread I was almost thinking "thatís low z enough to throw a pre amp in there, but after seeing Eric I'm sold. Kidding
          Me and Neal's stage rig.

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          • #6
            Re: Shielding question

            Originally posted by rspst14
            One thing I should mention, the pickups mount directly to the body, which means the grounded baseplates will be touching the shielding. Assuming I apply a continuous coat of shielding paint to the entire pickup and electronics cavities, will that be sufficient to ground the shielding? Thanks.

            Ryan
            bump...anyone know for sure?

            Ryan
            Originally posted by JOLLY
            I'm the reason we had to sign waivers

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            • #7
              Re: Shielding question

              The only way to know for sure is to check several points in the cavity back to the input jack ground with an ohmeter ... you should be near zero ohms at all points.

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