Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

[75lespaul]

Why would you turn a rod clockwise or counterclockwise? I know one tightens and one loosens, and I assume righty tighty, left loosy, but for what problems would you tighten or loosen?

[FuseG4]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

The way I understand it is, if your action is already where you like it and your frets are mostly level to begin with:
If you get fret buzz only at the upper frets, you can add some relief by loosening the rod (CCW), which lets the neck bow a little. This gives the string a little more clearance at those frets.

If you have the action at the upper frets where you like it but the action seems too high at the 5-8 frets, you probably have too much relief. turn CW to straighten the neck a little.

Basically, you can test the relief without special tools by using the string as a straightedge. Capo the 1st fret or fret it with one finger. with the other hand, fret the 6th string at the last fret. Look around the 8th fret or so. If the string is now touching that fret, you either have back bowing (negative relief) or no relief (dead straight). If you can get the neck dead straight, you can add relief from there to get the right amount for you.

Remember to never turn the rod more than 1/4 of a turn at a time, as that is a pretty big adjustment. Also, wait at least half an hour between making small adjustments, and if you make a big adjustment, wait a day. The neck takes time to flex and adjust fully. I can't tell you the number of times where I thought I needed to turn it again and ended up the next day having gone too far.

Fender spec is .01" or .25 mm at the 8th fret. You can use a .010 E guitar string to check it, it should barely fit between the bottom of the string an the 8th fret.

[75lespaul]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

Cool beans, Fuse. Thank you very much.

[FuseG4]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

also it's a good idea to check your relief seasonally. I have to check mine a few times a year.

[Powdered Toast Man]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

http://www.fender.com/support/articl...er-setup-guide

TRUSS ROD

There are two different styles of truss rod found on Fender instruments—"standard" and "bi-flex" truss rods.

Most Fender guitars and basses are equipped with a standard truss rod (of which there are in turn two types: one that adjusts at the neck heel and one that adjusts at the headstock; both operate on the same principle). The standard truss rod can counteract concave curvature in a neck that has too much relief, for example, by generating a force in the neck opposite to that caused by excessive string tension.

Fender also uses a unique bi-flex truss rod system on some instruments. Unlike standard truss rods, which can only correct a neck that is too concave (under-bowed), the bi-flex truss rod can compensate concave or convex (over-bowed) curvature by generating a correcting force in either direction as needed.

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

Adjustment at headstock (allen wrench): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Adjustment at neck joint (phillips screwdriver): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

[Aceman]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

It's not exactly that simple...but;

Tightening increases tension in the neck. This decreases the amount of 'bow' and flattens the fretboard out. It can help lower the action.

Lossening allows the neck to bend from string tension more. Adds bow. This can eliminate buzzing.

As with all things, it's really a preference.

General rule: Never turn more than a quarter turn at a chop, and don't force it. Most people are way more afraid of it than they need to be.

Also a note - you generally can't "just" adjust the truss. If you have changed the truss, you may need/want to lower/raise the action as well.

For example: You had a loose truss, with lots of bow in the neck. You then tightened the rod and removed the bow. But now there is lots of buzz - you will need to raise the action.

And the truss generally does not effect the bow after the neck meets the body.

[Bludave]

Re: Truss rod adjustments; which way and why?

Why would you turn a rod clockwise or counterclockwise? I know one tightens and one loosens, and I assume righty tighty, left loosy, but for what problems would you tighten or loosen?

The way I always remember it is if you look at the center of the neck (7 to 9). If the neck has to much relief you want to raise it so turn the rod to the right. If the neck does not have enough relief you want to lower it turn the rod to the left. It's easy to remember Right to Raise, Left to Lower