How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

[El Supremo]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

Well, found a 250K push/pull pot. Measured it at 220K. A bit low, but installed it anyway since I'm only using one volume control in a bright guitar and am primarely interested in the differences with the 500K pot.
Just finished soldering and tried it out over a ADA-MP1 and Marshall 9100.

Sound is definitely a lot drier.
Pickups stay as tight as they were, so no negative effect as far as bass response.
The spec'd EQ curve of the pickups becomes more apparant. That slightly nasal high mid spike that's annoyed me at flat eq settings is gone.

As stated by blueman335 and other posters: a bit less high end output shrillness. The B mode and Presence Control of the 9100 are now a lot more useable for me (not just for reaaally true black metal anymore). Also noticed less buzzing/inteference than I'm used to.

So far, I think it's an improved over the previous tones I was getting. Might try a 300K push/pull pot in the future, but have to try it with my other amp first though.

[Quencho092]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

I recommend 280k's for low output PAF's or single coils, chunkier or higher output buckers are good with 500k. When I first installed seth lover in my formerly ant 2 loaded strat, 500K was way too shrill, 250K was extremely nice and fat but lost some top end.

RS guitar works makes extremely solid 280K pots for strat that feel much better than CTS, and will give you a bit more chime on top, giving you the option to go pleasantly bright wide open, or tweak your tone to get the perfect sound.

[El Supremo]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

Apart from a certain pot value for a certain pickup, do anyone of you choose specific volume pot values for certain guitars?
Some woods project more highs than others, so I strongly suspect that might also be something to consider when choosing a volume pot.

[blueman335]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

Apart from a certain pot value for a certain pickup, do anyone of you choose specific volume pot values for certain guitars?
Some woods project more highs than others, so I strongly suspect that might also be something to consider when choosing a volume pot.

Yes, and it's also dependent on tastes, and you rig. You get more low end and a fuller sound with a lot of mahogany, like an LP, so you can use brighter PU's with it. The warm body and bright PU's moderate each other.

For me, CC's are too dark in any mahogany guitars of mine (even with 500K's), except for a Hamer SATF, where a CC is just right. I like UOA5 magnets in bridge PU's (HB's and P-90's), they're usually just what I want tone-wise, combined with 250K's. I've got an UO C5 in an LP that is magic. But in a 498T in a LP, a UOA5 was too dark, so I switched it to an A8, which is what it needed.

If you have done some of this, you have a feel for what PU/mag/wood combination works to your satisfaction. Occasionally the wood or guitar design will do something different to the tone, and you'll have to adjust another component to get where you want to be.

If you like bright bridge PU's, you'll want to stick with 500K's for bridge HB's and P-90's. If you're treble sensitive, like me, you'll probably like 250K's or 470K resistors. Dial it in with magnets if need be. Tweak it till your happy. Some guys say you have to use 500K's with HB's! but not if your ears tell you otherwise. You're getting your ideal tones, not theirs. And your guitar and amp are probably different anyways. Whatever tones inspire you to play your best, those are the ones to get.

[El Supremo]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

I like both 250k and 500k, but for different applications. With the 250k volume pot I also experienced some more compression, and more prominent lower mids which I love for soloing. For tight metal riffing I need the dynamics and clarity though.

So far, I prefer the 250K for getting more classic rock and jazzy tones. 500k for the faster metal stuff.

But now for one more question. Would wiring 1 500k volume and 1 500k tone be the same as using just one 250k volume pot? Since the 2 pots would be wired in parallel, that would theoretically be correct me thinks. Or does the capacitor value play a role, even with the 500k tone at 10?

[El Supremo]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

I was wondering about this because I suspect:

if 1 500k volume + 1 500k tone are NOT the same as 1 250k volume

you could keep the reduction of resonant peak and dynamics of a 250k volume pot, but bring back the high end by using a 1meg tone pot.

don't know for sure, but sounds like a nice experiment anyways.

[avanteguarde]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

Humbuckers don't have as much treble as single coils so 500K is usual to resist treble getting lost.

The JB is one pickup that actually sounds good with 250K pots. With 500K it's pretty trebley.

then..pls help me out too.. what pot would i use for a p-rails trembucker is it the usual 500k? thanks

[uOpt]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

I was wondering about this because I suspect:

if 1 500k volume + 1 500k tone are NOT the same as 1 250k volume

you could keep the reduction of resonant peak and dynamics of a 250k volume pot, but bring back the high end by using a 1meg tone pot.

don't know for sure, but sounds like a nice experiment anyways.

No, that won't be the same thing.

The tone pot is a high pass filter that does it's thing having no knowledge of the resonance peak, the vol pot influences only the resonance peal and nothing else (no other treble).

[verbotenco]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

The JB is one pickup that actually sounds good with 250K pots. With 500K it's pretty trebley.

Not exactly right. The volume of the guitar wood also affects the treble intensity. My JB sounds duller in an Epiphone LP than the JB in a Kramer LP of which the wood volume is less.

[CookSDR]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

LOVE THIS POST!!

HUGE HELP!

[Elias Graves]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

My SSS Strat has all 500k pots. Dunno what the previous owner was thinking.

I usually keep the volume around 8 and the tone pots around 6 or 7.
Sounds nice like that. Can't be bothered to change the pots.

Am I really missing on something here? Should I?

You're only missing something if ou run out of range. 6-7 ain't bad. That gives you some room to move I you need that little extra oomph. As for me, a guitar that only sounds good on 10 is missing out on a lot of cool sounds. I'll take a well executed circuit over extra pickups any day.

[Elias Graves]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

I was wondering about this because I suspect:

if 1 500k volume + 1 500k tone are NOT the same as 1 250k volume

you could keep the reduction of resonant peak and dynamics of a 250k volume pot, but bring back the high end by using a 1meg tone pot.

don't know for sure, but sounds like a nice experiment anyways.

At least pots are cheap. But it's amazing what moving and changing pots around can do to the sound.

[dvanburen]

Re: How do the values of a 250k pot vs. 500k pot effect performance?

Yes, and it's also dependent on tastes, and you rig. You get more low end and a fuller sound with a lot of mahogany, like an LP, so you can use brighter PU's with it. The warm body and bright PU's moderate each other.

For me, CC's are too dark in any mahogany guitars of mine (even with 500K's), except for a Hamer SATF, where a CC is just right. I like UOA5 magnets in bridge PU's (HB's and P-90's), they're usually just what I want tone-wise, combined with 250K's. I've got an UO C5 in an LP that is magic. But in a 498T in a LP, a UOA5 was too dark, so I switched it to an A8, which is what it needed.

If you have done some of this, you have a feel for what PU/mag/wood combination works to your satisfaction. Occasionally the wood or guitar design will do something different to the tone, and you'll have to adjust another component to get where you want to be.

If you like bright bridge PU's, you'll want to stick with 500K's for bridge HB's and P-90's. If you're treble sensitive, like me, you'll probably like 250K's or 470K resistors. Dial it in with magnets if need be. Tweak it till your happy. Some guys say you have to use 500K's with HB's! but not if your ears tell you otherwise. You're getting your ideal tones, not theirs. And your guitar and amp are probably different anyways. Whatever tones inspire you to play your best, those are the ones to get.

This. Is a great post! I can't say much about pots as im not an expert and have learned a thing or two from this thread. but in a LP that i played that has 300k pots, it sounds a bit "choked" to me vs 500k pots in my other guitars. I play hard rock and metal most of the time so i prefer the 500 pots.

Blueman is absolutely correct. there are soooo many variables in tone and once you start messing with different components like tonewood, pickups, pots and magnets you will turn into a mad scientist and start swapping stuff around until it sounds right to you. its a lot of fun but can get overwelming until you find that sweet tone your looking for.. or just get tired of swapping stuff around