What do the ohms mean on both the amp head, and the cab? What amp head ohms go with what cab ohms?
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If it's a tube head, matching the ohms is important. Example- If you don't have a 4 ohm out on your head, and the cab is 4 ohm, I wouldn't. Some say you can go one way, up or down....can't think of which, and you'll only wear out tubes quicker.
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Technically, the cab needs to be equal or lower ohms rating.
If the cab is higher resistance than the amp, you'll wear out your amp fast. If the cab is lower resistance than the amp, there's a possibility you might blow out some speakers or shorten their life. The wattage rating and RMS also matter as to whether damage will occur.
It's wiser to match both amp and cab with the same values all around.
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Originally posted by alex_dorsten View PostDoes the wattage between an amp and cab matter?
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Originally posted by beaubrummels View PostTechnically, the cab needs to be equal or lower ohms rating.
If the cab is higher resistance than the amp, you'll wear out your amp fast. If the cab is lower resistance than the amp, there's a possibility you might blow out some speakers or shorten their life. The wattage rating and RMS also matter as to whether damage will occur.
It's wiser to match both amp and cab with the same values all around.Originally posted by crusty philtrumAnd that's probably because most people with electric guitars seem more interested in their own performance rather than the effect on the listener ... in fact i don't think many people who own electric guitars even give a poop about the effect on a listener. Which is why many people play electric guitars but very very few of them are actually musicians.
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Originally posted by dystrust View PostI'm pretty sure you've got that backwards. For example Mesa Mark series amps don't have a 16 ohm tap on the output transformer, but their manual states that it's perfectly safe to run a 16 ohm cabinet on one of the 8-ohm outputs. OTOH it also says to never hook it up to a load less than 4 ohms.Originally posted by LesStratmake sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.
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Re: Amp Question
Originally posted by dystrust View PostI'm pretty sure you've got that backwards. For example Mesa Mark series amps don't have a 16 ohm tap on the output transformer, but their manual states that it's perfectly safe to run a 16 ohm cabinet on one of the 8-ohm outputs. OTOH it also says to never hook it up to a load less than 4 ohms.
as for the wattage rating , if the amp in question is a tube amp, then the rule of the thumb is to use a cab with rated wattage that is almost twice as the output wattage of the amp to handle high operational transients.
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I'll stand by my earlier assertion:
Originally posted by LesStratmake sure that you own the gear, not vice versa.
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Originally posted by aleclee View PostAs a general rule, BB had it right. The way to remember is that it's not safe to run a tube amp with no load (infinite impedance). Higher is less safe for tube amps and the opposite for solid state.
Then I realized that amplifier designs with output transformers (like tube amps) function in a different manner. The output transformer "reflects" the load presented back on the power tubes. As the speaker impedance decreases, effective load on the power tubes increases. Conversely, as speaker impedance increases (toward the proverbial "open" or infinite ohms) the reflected load on the power tubes goes to 0 (short) which is the damaging case.
That's an incredibly simplified version, power tubes don't function like power transistors, even considering the output transformer. However, it's a good way to understand the rule of thumb not to present a tube amp with no load.
That all said, I still only match amplifier to load impedance.Last edited by PFDarkside; 10-12-2015, 08:34 PM.
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Concerning multi-speaker cabs, if you have a 2x12 with each speaker rated for (hypothetically) 50w, does the method of connecting them (i.e. series or parallel) affect their power-handling capability? Say, 2x50w in series = 100w, while 2x50w in parallel = 50w max?
My Carvin 2x12 states a 300w power rating (though I'm sure that's maximum sustained burst, and not recommended to have 300w running into it for several minutes at a time).Originally posted by Brown NoteI'm soooooo jealous about the WR-1. It's the perfect guitar; fantastic to play, balances well even when seated and *great* reach for the upper frets. The sound is bright tight and very articulate. In summary it could only be more awesome if it had b00bs and was on fire!
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Total power handling always sums. Two 50W RMS 8ohm speakers will always add to 100W RMS, regardless of if you wire them in series (16ohms) or parallel (4ohms). Your 300W figure could be RMS or Peak Wattage, best to check the actual speakers.Last edited by PFDarkside; 10-17-2015, 03:46 AM.
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