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Neck Bowing at Joint?

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  • Neck Bowing at Joint?

    I have an MIM Strat that appears to have a fairly odd issue. The two screws closest too the headstock on the neck plate are stripped, and this is making the tension that is created by the strings force the neck too bow.

    Does anyone have any solutions that don't involve glue?

  • #2
    Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

    Not really. You can redrill/drill out and install machine screw inserts intead of wood screws.....but I probably would want to epoxy in the inserts for added security.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

      Would wood filler be suitable for this application?

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      • #4
        Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

        Would wood filler be suitable for this application?
        Wood filler is NEVER suitable on guitars. Leave that to the cabinet makers.
        aka Chris Pile, formerly of Six String Fever

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        • #5
          Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

          Originally posted by '59 View Post
          Would wood filler be suitable for this application?
          it wouldnt harden properly
          a hardwood dowel on the other hand
          drilled and glued in would be like new
          start your holes all over again

          in fact this process can be repeated til the neck rots away
          EHD
          Just here surfing Guitar Pron
          RG2EX1 w/ SD hot-rodded pickups / RG4EXFM1 w/ Carvin S22j/b + FVN middle
          SR500 / Martin 000CE-1/Epiphone Hummingbird
          Epiphone Florentine with OEM Probuckers
          Ehdwuld branded Blue semi hollow custom with JB/Jazz
          Reptile Green Gibson Custom Studio / Aqua Dean Shire semi hollow with piezo
          Carvin Belair / Laney GC80A Acoustic Amp (a gift from Guitar Player Mag)
          GNX3000 (yea I'm a modeler)

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          • #6
            Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

            Just out out of curiosity, could you insert a threaded insert say like a heli coil or something similar and then bolt it?
            Never mind AlexR got it covered.
            Last edited by PS412; 11-06-2017, 11:19 PM.

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            • #7
              Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

              Originally posted by ehdwuld View Post
              it wouldnt harden properly
              a hardwood dowel on the other hand
              drilled and glued in would be like new
              start your holes all over again

              in fact this process can be repeated til the neck rots away
              What could I use as a dowel? And is titebond a suitable glue?

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              • #8
                Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                Hardware store - maple or oak
                Hardwood dowels whatever size you need
                5/16 probably plenty big
                Match it to the size you drill the holes out to

                Be careful not to drill too deep

                Cut the towel a bit long
                Slather with glue
                Slather hole as well
                Tap firmly into hole

                Wait a day to set up

                Trim excess dowel flush

                Titebond is excellent
                EHD
                Just here surfing Guitar Pron
                RG2EX1 w/ SD hot-rodded pickups / RG4EXFM1 w/ Carvin S22j/b + FVN middle
                SR500 / Martin 000CE-1/Epiphone Hummingbird
                Epiphone Florentine with OEM Probuckers
                Ehdwuld branded Blue semi hollow custom with JB/Jazz
                Reptile Green Gibson Custom Studio / Aqua Dean Shire semi hollow with piezo
                Carvin Belair / Laney GC80A Acoustic Amp (a gift from Guitar Player Mag)
                GNX3000 (yea I'm a modeler)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                  Okay thanks, I can do that. Two last questions, what should I use to trim it flush and what size whole should I drill the second time to put the screws in?

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                  • #10
                    Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                    Depends on the screw size. I think they are #8's but not sure. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...Hole-Size.aspx

                    The dowels wont need to be large diameter. Small flush cut trim saw would work to flush the dowel up. Barring that, you can probably score them deep and close to flush with a razor knife and snap them off. Then flush them up carefully with a small, sharp wood chisel, by hand. But you have to be careful not to get into the surrounding wood.

                    But hang on, I'm sure the luthiers have some better ideas.
                    Last edited by Darg1911; 11-07-2017, 07:13 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                      I saw this on another thread:

                      Originally posted by SabbathFan0220
                      If the issue is that the neck wood isn't holding the screws tight enough, Dan Erlewine's Repair Guide has a trick...you fill the neck mounting holes with super glue, let it soak into the wood, and repeat a couple times. It tightens up the holes a little and firms up the wood. I did it to one of my old MIM Strats and was really impressed with the results.
                      What do y'all think?

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                      • #12
                        Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                        The super glue trick only works if your screws are starting to get a little loose, but if the holes are totally stripped it will not do the trick.

                        Drilling out the screw holes and gluing in dowels is the best solution, but not the only thing. The simplest way to fix the problem is to use round hardwood toothpicks glued in with Titebond. Add as many toothpicks as it takes to completely fill the hole...the last toothpick should have to be hammered in. Just break off the toothpicks as they are inserted in to the holes. If they break off slightly below the surface, that is OK. If there is some wood still sticking up, just trim it with a sharp chisel or Exacto knife.

                        There is bound to be someone who will badmouth me for suggesting toothpicks, but if they are tightly filling the hole, this works just fine. It is a very quick and simple way to fix stripped screw holes and you eliminate the risk of drilling too far when doing the dowel fix.
                        Originally Posted by IanBallard
                        Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                          I think I might go the dowel route. How deep should I drill into the neck to place the dowel?

                          But the holes aren't totally stripped, they are just loose to the point of the neck bowing about 1mm out of the pocket, so would the glue work then?

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                          • #14
                            Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                            I'd still use toothpicks...1mm means that the wooden threads in the neck ARE completely stripped.

                            I forgot to say that with the toothpick fix, after hammering in the last toothpick into the screw hole, you can screw the neck back in place immediately (no need to wait for the glue to set as with the dowel fix or to redrill the hole). And I guarantee that this fix will be stronger than new...especially after the glue hardens.
                            Originally Posted by IanBallard
                            Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?

                              I'm having trouble understanding how the toothpick fix works in my head. If you glue the toothpicks into the the holes drilled for the screws, aren't you sort of glueing the neck to the body?

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