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Best way to shave the heel joint of a roasted ash body . . .

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  • #16
    Re: Best way to shave the heel joint of a roasted ash body . . .

    In a semi-related note, grain filling ash is turning out to be a giant *****. You could drive a car down the canyons in this wood.
    Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!

    Originally posted by Douglas Adams
    This planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.

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    • #17
      Re: Best way to shave the heel joint of a roasted ash body . . .

      Originally posted by GuitarStv View Post
      In a semi-related note, grain filling ash is turning out to be a giant *****. You could drive a car down the canyons in this wood.
      what filler did you use? If you start with Zpoxy finishing resin, you should have it filled after 3 or 4 turns, with sanding in between the layers. That's the most natural looking filler I've come across. Otherwise, a 400ml 2K clearcoat finish will work wonders as well. That fills and seals the pores quite well. Then 800 ml of 1k and then... sanding.

      Or, rustin's grain filler but that stuff has a bit of a color and I don't like that under a clear finish. If you want to use a transparent color, I'd go with the 2K route (color/dye first, then the 2K). If it's gonna be opaque: 2K epoxy primer/filler. Done in one evening, ready to sand the next day and ready to be coated with a new application.

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      • #18
        Re: Best way to shave the heel joint of a roasted ash body . . .

        Originally posted by orpheo View Post
        what filler did you use? If you start with Zpoxy finishing resin, you should have it filled after 3 or 4 turns, with sanding in between the layers. That's the most natural looking filler I've come across. Otherwise, a 400ml 2K clearcoat finish will work wonders as well. That fills and seals the pores quite well. Then 800 ml of 1k and then... sanding.

        Or, rustin's grain filler but that stuff has a bit of a color and I don't like that under a clear finish. If you want to use a transparent color, I'd go with the 2K route (color/dye first, then the 2K). If it's gonna be opaque: 2K epoxy primer/filler. Done in one evening, ready to sand the next day and ready to be coated with a new application.
        I'm using Aquaclear grain filler . . . chosen because:
        - it was at the local store
        - it was the least toxic grain filler they had


        Never used grain filler before. I was expecting that after one or two applications it would be done - which seems to have been optimistic. :P
        Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!

        Originally posted by Douglas Adams
        This planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.

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        • #19
          Re: Best way to shave the heel joint of a roasted ash body . . .

          never used that; not available on my side of the pond.

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