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Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

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  • Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

    Hi,
    This is my first time re wiring a guitar, I am ordering some parts now and I was wondering if you must solder the cap and or grounding right behind the actual potentiometer even when is a push - pull one. There is not much space back there, at least from what I can see in the pictures of the real pots, can the connections also be soldered on the back of the pot casing (the box in the back) This is the diagram and a couple of pictures of the potentiomters, thanks!

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    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

    Solder to that little tab at the lower-right-most part of that pic. That's what it's there for.

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    • #3
      Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

      Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post
      Solder to that little tab at the lower-right-most part of that pic. That's what it's there for.
      Oh!! That little single tab, okay. Thank you!!!

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      • #4
        Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

        Originally posted by ArtieToo View Post
        Solder to that little tab at the lower-right-most part of that pic. That's what it's there for.
        I've always just soldered to to the metal box. Never thought of using the tab, but it's probably a much better way to do it. :P
        Join me in the fight against muscular atrophy!

        Originally posted by Douglas Adams
        This planet has - or rather had - a problem, which was this: most of the people living on it were unhappy for pretty much of the time. Many solutions were suggested for this problem, but most of these were largely concerned with the movements of small green pieces of paper, which is odd because on the whole it wasn't the small green pieces of paper that were unhappy.

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        • #5
          Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

          That same switch box is used for on/off switches in electronic equipment. Normally, that tab would slide down into the circuit board into the ground plane, and be soldered to provide rear support for the switch.

          Notice that it sticks down the same distance as the terminals.

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          • #6
            Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

            Yup. That little tab is nice to have with those.

            When all I am doing is splitting, I like these CTS pots better: https://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_...Pots_SPST.html
            They are the same that Gibson uses in their Trad Pro LP's and probably the Modern Series now.

            They CTS DPDT are nice too: https://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_...Pots_DPDT.html
            Never used those yet but I'd use the tab that would be designated as ground for that point.

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            • #7
              Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

              Based on the diagram, I thought it would have been easier to solder the capacitor to the side of the side of casing of the box or the side of the actual pot but we'll see how it goes.
              Last edited by Edward203; 02-21-2020, 06:03 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                For soldering the cap, that's probably not a bad idea. I was thinking more in terms of a general ground. When I do tone controls, I usually don't solder the cap to ground. I solder the pot lug to ground, and then solder the cap between the tone and vol pots. Same thing electrically. It's just a question of what technique you're more comfortable with.

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                • #9
                  Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                  Actually, no. This diagram is correct. The other diagram that you are referring to is incorrect...it had the lead from the vol pot going to the middle lug of the tone pot (where the cap was soldered).
                  Originally Posted by IanBallard
                  Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                    Originally posted by GuitarDoc View Post
                    Actually, no. This diagram is correct. The other diagram that you are referring to is incorrect...it had the lead from the vol pot going to the middle lug of the tone pot (where the cap was soldered).
                    Oops, yes, i will delete the last post. I was operating off memory, knowing the OP started with the other diagram. Forgot he switxhed over. I should have checked first. Thanks GuitarDoc!
                    Sanford: "The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware."

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                    • #11
                      Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                      One more question about the same diagram. Does it matter if the switch goes the other way? I noticed the same exact 3 way switch is the other way in my 2 other ESP Ltd, in that way the little soldering connectors that are sticking out are not right against the inside wall of the cavity. Thanks!

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                      • #12
                        Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                        If I understand your question . . . the switch is symmetrical. That is, you can rotate it 180 deg's and it's electrically the same.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                          You can rotate the switch anyway you like, but if you rotate it 180 degrees, you'll have to reverse and resolder the input wires or when you think you're switching to the bridge pup, you'll be playing the neck pup.
                          Originally Posted by IanBallard
                          Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Soldering caps and ground on Push-Pull pots.

                            Thanks, I'll rotate it before I solder anything. I'll follow the diagram but with the little tabs sticking out on the other side, since they're electrically the same as ArtieToo mentioned.

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