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Thread: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

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    Default Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Hello all, first post here. Not too far back I purchased an Ibanez PWM100 and while I love the look and feel/playability of the guitar, I have not been exactly blown away by the tone. I find the stock Mojotone Hornets to be kind of dead sounding and even muddy given the stock dropped tuning of C# standard and the heavy gauge strings required for it.

    After doing a lot of homework and comparisons I selected an Alpha/Omega set because of the clarity it has and the fact that it is tuned to retain that clarity with dropped tunings.

    My question is this - the guitar comes with a 3-way selector switch, and a coil split mini-switch. I would like to replace the 3-way with a more versatile 5-way switch (which one, is why I'm here) and open up a wider range of tones from the new pickups. There seems to be endless options for HH wiring and I am open to suggestions but my initial thoughts were:

    1 - Bridge
    2 - inner coils
    3 - Bridge + Neck
    4 - outer coils
    5 - Neck

    Ideally with all of these "default" positions being hum canceling. "Default" meaning unmodified by the micro-switch (thoughts on that below).

    While I am not set in stone on that, what I want to avoid is buying a switch that will not let me at least TRY that, as well as other combinations - like how some megaswitches seem to only do one thing. If there is a pretty strong consensus that this actually doesn't give much variety in tone, I'm happy to try something else after I can test this out first. But I'd prefer to buy one switch to rule them all, as it were if at all possible. it seems like many megaswitches for a PRS-style setup do exactly this except for position 3, but I don't know if they can be wired to give both humbuckers.

    Further, I'm not sure what to do with the micro-switch. It's an on/off as far as I can tell, so I was thinking it could maybe be a phase switch? or is there a more inventive use for it to give a broader range of options? Flipping coils? Flipping series/parallel for certain positions? Again, very much open to suggestions and not opposed to buying an on/off/on or on/on/on or whatever (assuming it fits) if there is a good reason to change it.

    Another challenge here is the S-series body from Ibanez being very shallow. The PWM100 is slightly thicker than a typical S-series allowing a bit more clearance but I know it's going to be a challenge to get a superswitch in there. I know some of the Schaller megaswitches would probably fit (they're about 30mm or 1 3/16" vs the 1 3/8" of many others I've looked at) but none of them do exactly what I want above and I don't have the skill to know how to wire them differently.

    A bit about me - I can solder, have done plenty of hobbyist-level eletronic projects but mostly all digital stuff, so while I have the skills to physically do the wiring, every pickup wiring diagram I look at just looks like spaghetti to me. So the "talk to me like I'm 5" rule applies here - nothing should be assumed, talk to me like I'm an idiot please, and provide as much detail as possible for diagrams or resources that might help.

    It's an absolutely lovely instrument, I just want it to sound as good as it looks and feels. Thank you so much!

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    Administrator Mincer's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Welcome to the forum!

    A Super Switch allows this, although you'd have to flip a magnet on a pickup for everything to remain hum-cancelling. I wrote a blog about my version of this wiring.
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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Thanks for the quick response. I went to the blog post but I don't see any images at all aside from the cropped wiring diagram at the top. Is there anywhere to get the images from that post?

    Also, did you have any thoughts on options to do with the mini-switch?

    I'm fine swapping the magnet, I did see a few posts on that but I was wondering how to properly orient the pickups. There aren't screws and slugs on these pickups, it's all screws. Is there a suggested way to determine the proper orientation?

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Don't do any wiring or mess with pickups myself, but may I suggest you use the mini switch to get series/parallel wiring on tne neck pickup? Cuts the bass and a bit of volume compared to parallel, but does wonders for clean tones. All my Duncan loaded guitars are wired that way, no matter what pickup configuration they have.
    Guitars:Gibson LP Trad ('57 Classics), PRS SE CU 24 Flametop (TB5/PGn), Ibanez RG870RWZ (PATB set), Jackson DK2M1H (TB4) & DK2 (TB10/VRn/CRn), LTD MH-1000HS (TB-15/Lil59n), ST213A (HRb/STK-S4 m&n) & TE212 (Hot Stack/A2Pn), Dean Cadillac 1980 (59 set) & Old Skull V (TB6/JazzN), Squier VM JM (SJM-1 set);Effects:Korg Pitchblack Poly, Digitech Drop, MXR CAE MC404 & EHX Wailer wahs, L6 HX FX & Stomp, Fender FVP-1, EHX Volume Pedal; Amp & Cab:H&K GM 40 Dlx, L6 DT25 cab;

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    Administrator Mincer's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Here is the diagram:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The rest of the pics were product pics. They are working on the site now, and many of the blogs are screwed up right now.

    The magnet flip is easy, and it will make sure that all positions are hum cancelling and the right coils get selected. Depending on what kind of switch it is, it might be able to select which coil of one humbucker is active (I'd pick the neck), but you will lose hum-cancelling. A phase switch would work too, but I don't particularly like that sound. Maybe a series/parallel switch for one humbucker?
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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by RexRemus View Post
    Hello all, first post here. Not too far back I purchased an Ibanez PWM100 and while I love the look and feel/playability of the guitar, I have not been exactly blown away by the tone. I find the stock Mojotone Hornets to be kind of dead sounding and even muddy given the stock dropped tuning of C# standard and the heavy gauge strings required for it.

    After doing a lot of homework and comparisons I selected an Alpha/Omega set because of the clarity it has and the fact that it is tuned to retain that clarity with dropped tunings.

    My question is this - the guitar comes with a 3-way selector switch, and a coil split mini-switch. I would like to replace the 3-way with a more versatile 5-way switch (which one, is why I'm here) and open up a wider range of tones from the new pickups. There seems to be endless options for HH wiring and I am open to suggestions but my initial thoughts were:

    1 - Bridge
    2 - inner coils
    3 - Bridge + Neck
    4 - outer coils
    5 - Neck

    Ideally with all of these "default" positions being hum canceling. "Default" meaning unmodified by the micro-switch (thoughts on that below).

    While I am not set in stone on that, what I want to avoid is buying a switch that will not let me at least TRY that, as well as other combinations - like how some megaswitches seem to only do one thing. If there is a pretty strong consensus that this actually doesn't give much variety in tone, I'm happy to try something else after I can test this out first. But I'd prefer to buy one switch to rule them all, as it were if at all possible. it seems like many megaswitches for a PRS-style setup do exactly this except for position 3, but I don't know if they can be wired to give both humbuckers.

    Further, I'm not sure what to do with the micro-switch. It's an on/off as far as I can tell, so I was thinking it could maybe be a phase switch? or is there a more inventive use for it to give a broader range of options? Flipping coils? Flipping series/parallel for certain positions? Again, very much open to suggestions and not opposed to buying an on/off/on or on/on/on or whatever (assuming it fits) if there is a good reason to change it.

    Another challenge here is the S-series body from Ibanez being very shallow. The PWM100 is slightly thicker than a typical S-series allowing a bit more clearance but I know it's going to be a challenge to get a superswitch in there. I know some of the Schaller megaswitches would probably fit (they're about 30mm or 1 3/16" vs the 1 3/8" of many others I've looked at) but none of them do exactly what I want above and I don't have the skill to know how to wire them differently.

    A bit about me - I can solder, have done plenty of hobbyist-level eletronic projects but mostly all digital stuff, so while I have the skills to physically do the wiring, every pickup wiring diagram I look at just looks like spaghetti to me. So the "talk to me like I'm 5" rule applies here - nothing should be assumed, talk to me like I'm an idiot please, and provide as much detail as possible for diagrams or resources that might help.

    It's an absolutely lovely instrument, I just want it to sound as good as it looks and feels. Thank you so much!
    Wcome to the forum!

    FYI: there is an alternative where you don't have to flip the magnet on one of the pickups, which requires the pickup to be partially disassembled. The alternative simply wires the pickup in a different way, *and* has you rotate one of the pickups 180 in its pickup mounting ring. An example of this is the wiring diagram below (although it does not have either of the pickups rotated, but just try to imagine one of them rotated for now). It does achieve hum-canceling in the coil-split positions. The "S" and "N" refer to South and North magnetic polarities, FYI. This diagram doesn't match your guitar 100% (it has a Tone Control vs your guitar does not, and it does not have a 2 way switch like your guitar), but I could tweak this diagram for you to match your guitar if you like the general idea.

    Name:  PicsArt_03-31-02.35.42.jpg
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    Regarding which superswitch to purchase, since you said you don't want one that limits the potential wiring options, you definitely don't want the 3PS1SC5. Also, regarding choosing a switch whose height will fit in the control cavity of your guitar: a typical superswitch is quite tall compared to a normal (i.e. 2 pole) 3 way and 5 way switch - - for example, the height of a typical superswitch like the Dimarzio EP1112 superswitch, is 31mm tall. So first measure the available height dimension in your control cavity. If it cannot fit a 31mm switch, then the Ibanez VLX91 superswitch would be a workable option for you. Pic of it below.

    Name:  IBANEZ-5-Wege-Schalter-fuer-RG-S-Serie-3PS1VLX91_1aa5263_600x600.jpg
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    Finally for now, some ideas for how to use the existing 2 way switch could be: a phase switch like you said, a Master Series/Parallel switch (i.e. combines the two pickups in series instead of in parallel), a killswitch, or a series/parallel switch for a single pickup of your choosing. For the last option, your current OEM switch cannot do both pickups at once because it doesn't have enough poles. If you wanted to do series-parallel for both pickups at once, you would need to replace your current OEM 2PDT switch with a 4PDT switch.

    Let me know.
    Last edited by Jack_TriPpEr; 05-05-2020 at 09:30 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Good diagram Shadowfire90, but it isn't what the OP wants.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanford View Post
    The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware.
    Quote Originally Posted by blueman335 View Post
    I've been slammed here a few times myself for not going with the crowd. I'd rather go in a different direction, and know why, then follow everyone else and not know why.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack_TriPpEr View Post
    FYI: there is an alternative where you don't have to flip the magnet on one of the pickups, which requires the pickup to be partially disassembled. The alternative simply wires the pickup in a different way, *and* has you rotate one of the pickups 180 in its pickup mounting ring.
    What do you suggest is accomplished by rotating a pup 180 degrees in its mounting ring?
    Originally Posted by IanBallard
    Rule of thumb... the more pot you have, the better your tone.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    What do you suggest is accomplished by rotating a pup 180 degrees in its mounting ring?
    To accomplish the OP's stated goal of having the active coils be physically located such that Position 2 is "both inners" and Position 4 is "both outers".

    The wiring at the switch accomplishes the hum-canceling goal in Positions 2 and 4. The rotation just places the active coils where the OP wants them. If one pickup is NOT rotated, Positions 2 and 4 remain hum-canceling but the active coil combinations will be "one inner and one outer".
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Good diagram Shadowfire90, but it isn't what the OP wants.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanford View Post
    The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware.
    Quote Originally Posted by blueman335 View Post
    I've been slammed here a few times myself for not going with the crowd. I'd rather go in a different direction, and know why, then follow everyone else and not know why.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Thank you again Mincer and thanks Jack Tripper!

    Jack: I really appreciate the depth of your reply. I'm going to include a few pics that might be helpful. They'll at least show what we're working with if nothing else as far as the cavity and the measurements of the current switch.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/nyM1HhEdxvYuZRhK7
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ay36NcLEWjNAA6rd8
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/zEpoHh8Yv6tjLuaW9

    So it's not easy to see in the last pic but "tops" of those terminals + wires & solder do get up to 30mm or maybe 31mm. So I know a 31mm switch would end up a bit higher, though it might be possible to bend the tabs down a touch after soldering them. That being said there is still some additional clearance under the coverplate since it sits on top of the body and the switch mounts at an angle which allows a little extra distance before it would extend beyond the cavity, plus the PWM100 is just a bit thicker than a typical S-series - all of those little things add up to me thinking I might be ok with a 31mm "tall" switch, maybe even slightly taller even, I'm not opposed to taking 1-2mm out of the cover plate over the switch area either if I need the extra clearance, or even 3D printing a replacement that's a little chunkier with an appropriate recess - current is about 1.5mm, I could print something 2.5mm and take 1.5-1.75mm out as a recess.

    Anyway... That's a long way to say, I think a switch around 31-30mm could be made to work. I could not find dimensions for the VLX91 to save my life, but I do know it has been used in S-series the default slightly thinner ones, so that's probably the "safest" choice, but from everything I see those tend to be hard to get(?)

    I may just order one of each to be safe and just how fitment goes once I get them physically here.

    Tha being said, Jack, if you're willing to provide wiring diagrams for either or both I would be hugely thankful. And if there's a better/different switch to allow more interesting combinations I'm open to getting it.

    I like the suggestion of serial/parallel wiring from Mincer and Synapsys. Would there be a significant benefit for doing that for both pickups vs just the neck? if it's only one the neck is the choice for sure, but I'm curious how flipping to parallel and going through positions 2-4 would be, for one or both pickups. honestly might be terrible which would be fine lol, or might not change much as far as the split positions (2,4) but 3 might get weird.

    So yeah if being able to swap both to parallel requires a new switch, but tonally is worth it, I'm totally game to buy one, but I don't think I'd be unhappy with just the neck. I just feel like if I'm tearing this all out I'd rather do it once, so if a new switch is more flexible and gives more options - even if I'm not currently using them all - I'd rather just get it now, and have options later by just adding/moving a few wires later on.

    Thanks so much for the helpful responses all!

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Ok, I have a VLX91 and an EP1112 ordered and will hopefully see them in a few days. As you can see from the pics the mini-switch is actually a 3PDT - I don't know if that makes much of a difference or if a 4PDT is still the minimum required for the more exotic options. I can definitely try and get something ordered for that as well if it's worth it. And open to an on/off/on or whatever if it provides tonally meaningful options.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by RexRemus View Post
    Ok, I have a VLX91 and an EP1112 ordered and will hopefully see them in a few days. As you can see from the pics the mini-switch is actually a 3PDT - I don't know if that makes much of a difference or if a 4PDT is still the minimum required for the more exotic options. I can definitely try and get something ordered for that as well if it's worth it. And open to an on/off/on or whatever if it provides tonally meaningful options.
    Since the lugs are positioned differently on a VLX91 and an EP112, I will wait for you to tell me which switch you decided on before I make an updated diagram.

    No, a 3PDT switch is also insufficient for the task of changing btw series/parallel for 2 pickups at the same time.

    Regarding the type of switch you get, it all depends on what you want it do. I suggest you use the Search feature of this forum to find posts through history on this forum about each option, see what people had to say about each one after they tried it for themselves, and compare that to your needs and wants based on your playing style and goals, to determine which switch function/option you yourself would like to pursue. Also, looking each one up on Youtube and listening to demos there is also helpful. Then let me know and I will add it to the diagram.
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Good diagram Shadowfire90, but it isn't what the OP wants.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanford View Post
    The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware.
    Quote Originally Posted by blueman335 View Post
    I've been slammed here a few times myself for not going with the crowd. I'd rather go in a different direction, and know why, then follow everyone else and not know why.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Thanks Jack, I will report back in a little while. This'll give me time to record some DIs of the "before" to have a reference once this is done.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by RexRemus View Post
    I like the suggestion of serial/parallel wiring from Mincer and Synapsys. Would there be a significant benefit for doing that for both pickups vs just the neck?
    You'll need a second switch the get both humbuckers in series/parallel switching. Or keep the existing on and use a push/pull on a volume or tone pot.
    Guitars:Gibson LP Trad ('57 Classics), PRS SE CU 24 Flametop (TB5/PGn), Ibanez RG870RWZ (PATB set), Jackson DK2M1H (TB4) & DK2 (TB10/VRn/CRn), LTD MH-1000HS (TB-15/Lil59n), ST213A (HRb/STK-S4 m&n) & TE212 (Hot Stack/A2Pn), Dean Cadillac 1980 (59 set) & Old Skull V (TB6/JazzN), Squier VM JM (SJM-1 set);Effects:Korg Pitchblack Poly, Digitech Drop, MXR CAE MC404 & EHX Wailer wahs, L6 HX FX & Stomp, Fender FVP-1, EHX Volume Pedal; Amp & Cab:H&K GM 40 Dlx, L6 DT25 cab;

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Thanks Synapsys - I'm looking at 4PDT switches per Jack's suggestion to see if I can squeeze one into that cavity, I may wait till I get the superswitches in and see how those work (if at all) so I can have actual measurements and not have to buy a bunch just to see if they'll fit. But I'm excited about having so many tonal options, even if some are absolute misses, it's still nice to have such a flexible setup if I want to change anything afterward.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Just a quick update - if all goes well I'll have both switch options in-hand on Monday and I'll be able to see if either of them will fit and/or which one fits best. I actually worry neither will fit but I think I can file down the 2nd PCB a bit on the EP112 and it'll fit. But either way, I'll know in a few days and I'll report back then.

    On a personal note, it'll be good to have this info as looking around I've seen this asked (can I use a superswitch in a S-series body?) on multiple other sites with no real definitive answers, so I like knowing this post can serve as a reference for anyone else looking for an answer to this question going forward.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by RexRemus View Post
    Just a quick update - if all goes well I'll have both switch options in-hand on Monday and I'll be able to see if either of them will fit and/or which one fits best. I actually worry neither will fit but I think I can file down the 2nd PCB a bit on the EP112 and it'll fit. But either way, I'll know in a few days and I'll report back then.

    On a personal note, it'll be good to have this info as looking around I've seen this asked (can I use a superswitch in a S-series body?) on multiple other sites with no real definitive answers, so I like knowing this post can serve as a reference for anyone else looking for an answer to this question going forward.
    Great, although I don't quite understand the concern with the height on the VLX91. I mentioned that switch because it is considerably shorter than a EP1112, and you were saying after looking at your control cavity that it might even fit a EP1112. If it *might* fit an EP1112, then it *definitely* can fit a VLX91.
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Good diagram Shadowfire90, but it isn't what the OP wants.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanford View Post
    The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware.
    Quote Originally Posted by blueman335 View Post
    I've been slammed here a few times myself for not going with the crowd. I'd rather go in a different direction, and know why, then follow everyone else and not know why.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack_TriPpEr View Post
    Great, although I don't quite understand the concern with the height on the VLX91. I mentioned that switch because it is considerably shorter than a EP1112, and you were saying after looking at your control cavity that it might even fit a EP1112. If it *might* fit an EP1112, then it *definitely* can fit a VLX91.
    It's actually not the height, it's the width I'm worried about - the way the switch mounts on the S-series is that there is a hole routed entirely through the body the size of the switch, this is covered by a plastic "shroud" and the switch mounts to THAT. The way it is routed through the body is only as wide as a... "single-width" switch - if that makes sense. So there's a hole all the way through that's only like 12mm wide and then there's a "lip" where it goes back "up" to the normal cavity height. Hard to explain in words, so I made this which is a little oversimplified and not to scale, but hopefully shows what I'm talking about

    Click image for larger version. 

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    As far as I know both switches are "wider" than a normal switch which leads me to be worried about them clearing the "lip". The difference between them is that the VLX is fully encased along the "top" (bottom in the drawing) where the EP112 has an exposed PCB and what seems to be no critical traces or connectivity in that area. So if that one hits the lip, I feel like I can shave down the "extended" PCB a bit to make it clear the lip:

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    vs the VLX:

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    Can't really "shave" anything off that.

    Hopefully that makes sense. I think I'm actually ok on height, especially on the VLX, but my fear is the width, so then it's down to the EP1112 which I think I can fix the width on, but is borderline on height... Either way, I'll know on Monday and report back.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Quote Originally Posted by RexRemus View Post
    It's actually not the height, it's the width I'm worried about - the way the switch mounts on the S-series is that there is a hole routed entirely through the body the size of the switch, this is covered by a plastic "shroud" and the switch mounts to THAT. The way it is routed through the body is only as wide as a... "single-width" switch - if that makes sense. So there's a hole all the way through that's only like 12mm wide and then there's a "lip" where it goes back "up" to the normal cavity height. Hard to explain in words, so I made this which is a little oversimplified and not to scale, but hopefully shows what I'm talking about

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	S-series super switch.jpg 
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    As far as I know both switches are "wider" than a normal switch which leads me to be worried about them clearing the "lip". The difference between them is that the VLX is fully encased along the "top" (bottom in the drawing) where the EP112 has an exposed PCB and what seems to be no critical traces or connectivity in that area. So if that one hits the lip, I feel like I can shave down the "extended" PCB a bit to make it clear the lip:

    Name:  S-series EP1112.jpg
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    vs the VLX:

    Name:  S-series VLX91.jpg
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    Can't really "shave" anything off that.

    Hopefully that makes sense. I think I'm actually ok on height, especially on the VLX, but my fear is the width, so then it's down to the EP1112 which I think I can fix the width on, but is borderline on height... Either way, I'll know on Monday and report back.
    Ok, that is an interesting switch route configuration in your S series guitar there. Good luck and let me know when you're ready for a diagram - and which switch it'll be.
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarDoc View Post
    Good diagram Shadowfire90, but it isn't what the OP wants.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanford View Post
    The hardest part about tone chasing is losing the expectations associated with the hardware.
    Quote Originally Posted by blueman335 View Post
    I've been slammed here a few times myself for not going with the crowd. I'd rather go in a different direction, and know why, then follow everyone else and not know why.

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    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Well, Santa came early which made me very happy but Mrs. Claus was not amused.

    I've been able to do a quick comparison and grabbed a few pics for those who might be interested:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/aq1uQX4TrGao2cz48

    The first pic in that album shows the "lip" I was trying to illustrate previously and a few comparisons between all the switches just for relative size comparisons.

    A few observations:
    - The VLX91 really is an extremely compact "super switch" design. Without the "lip" problem I'd absolutely choose that switch (might still "work" see below) as I think it would be a very neat and tidy install, though soldering to it seems more like neural surgery
    - The EP1112 is pretty large compared to the VLX and stock switch, it's funny seeing how compact the VLX is when compared to it.
    - The EP1112 will likely be MUCH easier to wire up
    - This cavity is very snug The EP1112 ends up actually really close to the volume pot, though the VLX does as well, there just wasn't much space to work with there from the get-go
    - The EP1112 will definitely fit if I shave the "extended" PCB down a little bit. I can mount it now but it doesn't sit fully flush so I do need to trim it. The good news is that even sitting a little off kilter (which makes it "higher" in the cavity) the backplate still slides over it without hitting it - but there's like 1 atom of space between them. So if I can get it sit flush against the switch ccover I'll gain a tiny bit of extra clearance, and I can also slightly bend the top-most tabs down a tiny bit to add a bit more clearance which I' think I'll need to do once actual wires and solder are in there.

    With regards to the VLX - I'm going to see if I have any longer screws and I'd like to try and shim against the back of the switch plate and see if I can't make it work. My concern then shifts to the "knob" being too short to clear the front of the switch plate in the extreme positions (1/5) but if it's long enough then the VLX might be viable. Again my hope is that in doing this someone else might find this thread in the future and it can give them options and useful info rather than making them redo all the work I'm currently doing.

    I'll also post measurements of each switch a little bit later as I found those hard to get in particluar for the VLX, I literally couldn't find dimensions anywhere.

    @Jack_TriPpEr - I think things are probably going to end up with the EP1112, but I'll report back once I try shimming the VLX and make a final call.

  20. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Posts
    65

    Default Re: Help with HH wiring in Ibanez S-series

    Ok, I tried shimming the VLX, didn't have everything I needed to do it properly, but close enough to see how it would work, and it definitely would work, but positions 1/5 have the switch arm/pole/stick/lever (what's the right term?) sitting very close to the switch plate on the S-series style guitar. It works, and it will click in, but you really have to kind of dig your finger under the edge of it to flip it to the other positions. This is because we're basically recessing it deeper into the body so a few mm of "throw" length is now inside the body. It works, it just doesn't feel good. If you're comfortable taking a little wood out of the cavity (in this case, I am not) I think it's the best option as I know a standard S-series is even thinner than mine is and it is a very compact super switch.

    So, next, I tried shaving down the EP1112 (new pics added to the album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/aq1uQX4TrGao2cz48) and I really didn't need to take much off at all, like 2mm or slightly less. Did a fitup and it mounts perfectly flush, the switch "throw" is as expected at positions 1/5 and there's enough clearance in the cavity when it's sitting properly that I don't think I even need to bend the leads down to clear the backplate. Again, YMMV on a standard S-series but I think this can definitely work, even if you had to bend the leads down just a touch.

    Dimensions:
    VLX91:
    48mm wide at screw plate
    44mm wide at PCB(s)
    25mm high
    18mm deep

    EP1112:
    48mm wide at screw plate
    40mm wide at PCB(s)
    32mm high at PCB(s)/35mm high at wiring lead ends
    19mm deep at PCB/20-21mm deep at wiring end leads

    All measurements are rounded up to the nearest mm as I figured this is more valuable when sizing - if these numbers fit, it should fit with at least some small gap remaining.

    @Jack_TriPpEr - I think the winner is the EP1112. Do you think you can assemble two diagrams - one with the current mini-switch to flip neck to parallel, and one with a 4PDT switch that can flip neck and bridge to parallel?

    Thanks so much, I hope others find all of this information useful someday.

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