New Idea for a Strat Build

[ItsaBass]

I almost picked that Hipshot, too, but eventually went with a Bladerunner. Let us know how the Hipshot turns out.

Funny, the same guitar that the neck is coming off of has a nickel plated Bladerunner on it. I thought about using it just to save money, but I dislike the thing so much. Spent $160 + on it eight years ago, and can't really get rid of the thing very effectively (used market stinks, and no one wants to trade), so it has stayed in place. But when I thought about putting it on this new build, I decided I'd rather spend $110 on a Hipshot instead. It's not a very good sign when someone would rather spend $110 on something different than to re-use you, even when you're in like-new condition.

[Mincer]

My Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.

[ItsaBass]

My Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.

The Bladerunner works for me, as in it is not total garbage. But its build quality and materials are not very high end for the price. You can get better built vibratos, built by hand in the U.S.A., out of clearly specified materials, for less. E.g. Callaham or Hipshot. Bladerunner are made in China, and – at least when I ordered mine – the Bladerunner materials used were not specified.

I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).

Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.

And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.

I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.

Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.

[ArtieToo]

I was wanting to try one of these ever since Mincer first mentioned them. And I was thinking of offering you a trade for a Hipshot. But now, you've talked me out of it. Sorry.

[ErikH]

I almost went for one for a Bladerunner when they first came out but after a while I realized I don't even use the trem to begin with. I have the trems decked and with 4 springs tight to keep it down. So in the end, it would've been a waste of money for me. The Gotoh 6-screw vintage trem from Warmoth suits me just fine.

[Mincer]

The Bladerunner works for me, as in it is not total garbage. But its build quality and materials are not very high end for the price. You can get better built vibratos, built by hand in the U.S.A., out of clearly specified materials, for less. E.g. Callaham or Hipshot. Bladerunner are made in China, and – at least when I ordered mine – the Bladerunner materials used were not specified.

I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).

Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.

And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.

I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.

Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.

Interesting...I have mine set to float, but didn't encounter any problems with its use. It is a very smooth bridge, and looks good. I don't know if it is 'better' than others, but mine does work as advertised, and I've never had issues with it.

[Lewguitar]

How about a Coodercaster? Lollar will make the pickups.

[ItsaBass]

Well, I am bumping this because there has been a development. I have set aside the idea of using my MIM Strat neck, and purchased this two-piece rosewood neck for the project. 10" radius, medium frets, thick U profile (almost 1"), "vintage" slab style, with a heel adjusting rod and the smooth, uninterrupted headstock transition that goes with it. Not yet sure of the finishing process that I'll use, but it might involve a light burgundy dye and an oil finish to make it warmer, darker, and more even. But if it is a good match to the celluloid tort pickguard material, I'll likely just oil it.

[jeremy]

great looking neck!

[ErikH]

That's nice. You may not even need to oil it. Rosewood necks don't usually require any finish at all because the wood has a natural oil to it. I played a Tele with an all rosewood neck once and it felt so smooth.

[Mincer]

Beautiful neck! Is it heavy? I've played a few rosewood necked guitars, and some were perfect, and a few were neck heavy. I do like the idea of some light dye on it, as it isn't as dark as some rosewoods. I am also curious about that trem, as I keep seeing it pop up on other guitars, but haven't tried one yet. I am planning out a build in my head right now, and that trem is on the top of the list.

This is going to be a great project.

[ItsaBass]

Not sure about the weight of the neck yet, and that’s a stock photo, so I don’t know what my neck‘s grain will look like. They adjust their photos a tad too bright to be realistic, but at the same time, it will need to be a bit darker to look its best in my opinion. It would be great if I could also introduce a little more burgundy while I am at it. I will have to see it next to the pickguard to know for sure, but I’m thinking a light black/burgundy dye mixture, followed by a thin clear finish of some sort. Maybe rubbed on light oil or a semi gloss lacquer.

[ItsaBass]

Neck came today. It's nice. It's not the one in the pic. Needs a nut, and the finishing fret work. The board is darker than the main shaft of the neck. Still bouncing around ideas.

If you've ever wanted an all rosewood neck, grab one of these from the Stratosphere. The price is right for what you get, compared to any other all rosewood neck on the market. They have Strat and Tele ones, and two styles for each (vintage or modern). The "vintage" isn't really typical vintage Fender neck specs, because it has a 10" radius and medium frets. But at least it's a nice, chunky neck profile, it's well made, and it's under $300 delivered.

Oh, and it doesn't feel particularly heavy to me.