2 humbucker, 1 vol, 1 tone, 5 position four pole superswitch wiring diagram

[casoder42]

I searched the forums but did not find quite what I am looking for. There is a stock diagram on the Seymour Duncan site but it does not list what pickups are "hot" for each switch position.

What I am trying to setup is:

Full Bridge
Outer coils ( neck north, bridge south)
Both full (I assume in parallel)
Inner Coils (neck south, bridge north)
Full neck

I am using an APH-1n and a SH-1b.

 

[GuitarDoc]

What you want is "Mincer's Do-It-All Wiring". It works great. Super great tones with the right pups. I have been using this as the default wiring on all of my custom guitar builds for several years now.

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/do-it-all-2-humbuckers-and-a-5-way-switch

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

^ This, with a couple of "buts":

1. If you buy SD bridge and neck pickups, not two bridges or two necks, you'll end up with the screw coils being on the "outside" on both pickups. That's because SD swaps the two coils over for what I can only presume are aesthetician reasons. So by coil splitting to "inner" and "outer" you'll be splitting to either the screw coils (souths) or slug coils (norths). OTOH if you use two bridge pickups or two neck pickups you'll be splitting to one north coil and one slug coil in each case. That will be hum canceling without any other mods.

2. If you DO buy a bridge and a neck, and you split to the "insides" (slugs) or "outsides" (screws), be aware you may need to take one pickup apart, flip the magnet over and put it back together. Now it's reverse polarity (RP). You then need. to solder it in "backwards" so it's reverse wired (RW) as well. This gives you a RWRP pickup and thus hum canceling in your splits.

3. You can check your pickup polarities with a map reading compass. The points to north end of the needle will point to the SOUTH pole of the pickup, as the Earth's magnetic south pole is actually closest to its geographic north pole.

 

[casoder42]

I had seen Mincer's and saw the note about the bridge being RW/RP. I did not know if the pickups came that way or not.

Thanks for the explanation on how to "make it so."

I had seen a diagram for something similar on another site and it looked nothing like Mincer's setup. I assumed it was due to Mincer's RW/RP bridge setup.

If I run into trouble I'll ask. I think I get what you are talking about. I've never taken a humbucker apart before. I have what I took out to practice with.

 

[Mincer]

Keep in mind either the neck or bridge can be rw/rp. I think most of the time I have the neck's magnet flip. I love that all positions are extremely usable and also hum-cancelling.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

^ Check your pickups first in case one is already RWRP.

Just go gently and try not to disturb the wires. Put a piece of tape or something on the magnet so you know which way up / round you started with.

 

[jeremy]

1. If you buy SD bridge and neck pickups, not two bridges or two necks, you'll end up with the screw coils being on the "outside" on both pickups. That's because SD swaps the two coils over for what I can only presume are aesthetician reasons. So by coil splitting to "inner" and "outer" you'll be splitting to either the screw coils (souths) or slug coils (norths). OTOH if you use two bridge pickups or two neck pickups you'll be splitting to one north coil and one slug coil in each case. That will be hum canceling without any other mods.

for almost all pup makers, the bridge and neck pups are the same other than number of turns and winding pattern. so if the screw is south on the bridge pup, it is on the neck pup as well. flipping it so the screw coil is "inside" for the neck pup will only change the physical location of which coil is active, it wont change the polarity unless you change the wiring. for duncan for example is screw = south and red/green wires, stud = north and black/white for all buckers. i dont think using two necks or two bridges would be any different than using one neck and one bridge. or at least it has not been in my experience.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

SD neck and bridge designated pickups have the physical locations of the screw and slug coils swapped over for, presumably, aesthetic reasons. The screw coils are always, well nearly always, souths and the slug coils norths, however.

This is my HH Strat. It has a 59/ Custom bridge and a Jazz neck. If you look closely you'll see the screw coils on each (cream bobbins) arre on the outsides of both.

FWIW I flipped the magnet in the Jazz and wired it in backwards to give me a RWRP neck, and I'm using a 5-way superswitch to auto coil split to the screws in P2 and the slugs in P4. The only real difference to the OP's idea is that I have two volumes and one tone.

 

[casoder42]

So with an SH-1b, is flipping the magnets actually removing them from the bracket, or is it just mount the pickup with the screws towards the neck and change the wiring?

unless the goal is for the north (screws) in the bridge to be "Souths" by actually flipping the magnet the screws pass through over. Another question, do I just reuse the tape or get some new from a Luthier's shop?

Removing from the bracket seems odd with the way the screws are installed.

 

[casoder42]

Found a video about the magnet. It's starting to come together.

Loosen the bobbins from the mounting plate so I can slide the magnet out on the side away from the wires and flip along the short edge. The the reverse winding comes from using the north in as out (and so on for the other inputs/outputs).

This is my first "upgrade" of an existing guitar. Pardon the newbie questions.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

You have to unscrew the four little brass screws from the back. These hold the two coils in place relative to each other. You also have to unscrew all six screw pole pieces from the front / top. Then gently prise the thing apart.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

FWIW here's my version of the circuit diagram with two volumes and a single tone.

For a single volume single tone setup you would wire the pickups to the switch the same way, but link all four commons together then wire this to the master volume and master tone Telecaster style.

https://forum.seymourduncan.com/filedata/fetch?id=6149727&d=1644015926

 

[casoder42]

OK, sorry to post again...

The magnet is flipped. After that I am working to rewire as I believe if I wire as is (since the leads have not been reconnected to the coils) The coil polarity and the magnet polarity will be reversed (canceling).

Someone posted to use black/green wired together for the coil split. In the diagram:

https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/l...a-5-way-switch

This shows black and white flipped, assuming that the "posts" on the coil are the same (I can't tell if the pups used for Mincer's post were purchased RW/RP - they are not labeled).

So normally you wire:

Gound -> S start (green)
Coil split -> N finish (white) shorted to S finish (red)
Hot -> N start (black)

As diagramed:

Ground -> S start (green)
Coil split -> N start (black) shorted to S finish (red)
Hot -> N finish (white)

As someone posted "close but no cigar" with their recommendation:

Ground -> N finish (white)
Coil split -> N start (black) shorted to S start (green)
Hot -> S finish (red)

So which of the second two is correct if I switched the magnet (I have tested that magnetic polarity has switched)?

Personally what makes sense is that hot and ground should flip. If you want to switch more than that (i.e. inner end of wire on a bobbin with outer wire) I would expect that you would then flip black/