Aftermarket bridges for Epiphones?

[ThreeChordWonder]

Bought a Gotoh for the Epi V, but I'm not sure the saddle nothes are deep enough and I don't like the way the intonation screws work. I have two Chinese Vs on the way, plus the Epi V, plus (possibly) the Epi LP to think about.

Suggestions under $50 please?

 

[Tubes]

https://stratosphereparts.com/new-t...for-gibson-les-paul-tuneomatic-metric-chrome/

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

Can someone explain the differences between a Nashville, an ABR-1, etc.?

Which is "best"?

 

[uOpt]

Can someone explain the differences between a Nashville, an ABR-1, etc.?

Which is "best"?

The ABR-1 is the TOM that stands on poles that screw directly into the guitar top.

The Nashville TOM stands on posts that have separate anchors in the guitar top.

 

[Rex_Rocker]

The saddle notches on Gotohs are supposed to be made deeper. The notches that come with them are just guides. It's pretty common for tune-o's to be that way. Schallers don't even have notches at all. You're supposed to make them yourself.

Graphtech Resomax bridges come pre-notched, and are killer-sounding. It just *barely* fit my Epi LP Custom, though.

TBH, I like the Gotoh bridge in my Epi 1959 better. It fits much more naturally, and it looks better quality, TBH. You can get them with brass or zinc saddles too, and even fancy titanium.

 

[beaubrummels]

Can someone explain the differences between a Nashville, an ABR-1, etc.?

Which is "best"?

There isn't best, but pros and cons.

ABR-1, since they screw directly into the top, are reputed to transfer vibrations into the guitar better and make it more resonant (personally, I have a reverse theory on that, but it doesn't matter. I haven't done scientific testing to say what actually happens). The con is there's less travel on the adjustment so sometimes you can't intonate the guitar, and I've had the experience on a hollowbody where a screw pole bent in the top while trying to adjust it and put the bridge out of alignment.

Nashviles have more travel to adjust the intonation, but that also causes the string to sometimes contact the back edge of the bridge if you have a steep break angle to the tailpiece. Also some guys believe the threaded inserts in the top don't transfer vibration or tone the same way and don't sound the same.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

^:beerchug:

 

[hamerfan]

https://faberusa.com/product-category/faber-tone-lock/master-kit/epiphone/

​​​​​Look also at Tonepros

 

[Tubes]

Did you see my first post? That tonepros locking Nashville metric version for 42 bucks...

Nashville is the better/updated version of the vintage abr1. I have both on les Pauls and can't tell a difference tonally but the Nashvilles are easier to intonate and adjust. Unless I'm building a vintage spec guitar I would go Nashville over abr 100% of the time. ​​​​​​

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

Bought a Guyker GM005 roller saddle bridge - came with the correct size inserts / bushings for the Epiphone V, which had gold colored hardware i didn't / don't like. Brass is fine but fake gold? Yuk!

It also has grub screws to tighten to the mounting posts, so once youve aet the height you can tighten the grub screws and stop the bridge falling off or the bridge height changing during string changes.

Haven't modded the LP yet.

 

[maug2122]

I got a Wilkinson roller bridge, gold for a 2007 Epiphone LPC.
It was so good, that I got one for my 1971 Medallion Series Gibson Flying V and my 1974 Gibson LPC.
The sustain increased, as with the tuning stability and it handles the two and half step bends I love to do and tone improved, massively.

All my Gibsons LPC, V and my Epiphone LPC got a Schaller tailpiece with fine tuners, so I can tune with inches, instead of 2 feet, up at the headstock.

 

[ThreeChordWonder]

My V: