Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

mnbaseball91

mnbaseball91

New member
Does anybody know if the truss rod nut on this late-80's Charvel should be 1/4" or something metric? I'm about to order a special wrench because nothing I have will fit in the little tiny slot and it would be nice to get it right on the first try.

Thanks
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

No problem. I have a model 4 and a model 1a, they use the same wrenches I'm pretty sure.
Friggin' fantastic guitars man. I'd get a 6 in a heartbeat if I loved neck throughs more, but my Stagemaster does it for now, I'll stick to bolt ons unless I REALLY click with one ;)
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

I'm having a hell of a time getting this thing playable and looking good. I had to pull the frets, install new neck binding, install new frets and dress them, fill the tuner holes and install a Floyd Rose Speedloader...then I rushed the finish to try to have it ready for a couple gigs. The day before the first show, the nut popped off - I had epoxied it because the screw holes on the nut would have sent them right through the truss rod. I finally have everything ready to go, though the finish quality is questionable, but now I can't do anything until I can adjust the truss rod.

I'm getting a little pissed off at this guitar!
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

mnbaseball91 said:
I'm having a hell of a time getting this thing playable and looking good. I had to pull the frets, install new neck binding, install new frets and dress them, fill the tuner holes and install a Floyd Rose Speedloader...then I rushed the finish to try to have it ready for a couple gigs. The day before the first show, the nut popped off - I had epoxied it because the screw holes on the nut would have sent them right through the truss rod. I finally have everything ready to go, though the finish quality is questionable, but now I can't do anything until I can adjust the truss rod.

I'm getting a little pissed off at this guitar!
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@Nut: the original Kahler lock works great when set up properly + the nut itself is properly cut... but top mounted R-3/R-4 Floyd nuts work fine in my experience as well.. either way, epoxying wood and metal together can´t work becaisuse epoxy has zero "penetration" ;)

Though it seems you´re converting to a speedloader, which may be a different story.... out of curiosity, why did you have to pull the frets and install new binding??? Or were both damaged / played down? They can be replaced independent of another...
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

Pierre said:
7mm, metric ;) Good luck!
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I believe it's actually 9/32", which is very close to 7mm so the wrench would be almost interchangeable.

It's rare for an American guitar to have a metric component, unless it's a a jap subcontracted one.
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

octavedoctor said:
I believe it's actually 9/32", which is very close to 7mm so the wrench would be almost interchangeable.

It's rare for an American guitar to have a metric component, unless it's a a jap subcontracted one.
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7mm is the exact size, I just calipered my own truss nut and wrench to make sure.

BTW the guitar is a Japanese one, the Charvel Model series were the first Jackson/Charvel Imports, introduced in 1986 ;)
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

Zerb, this is actually the same guitar that I asked about here several months ago. I bought it totally trashed.

The original finish had been painted over in spots with black spray paint and looked awful. I refinished it in Reranch's inca silver. When I pulled the tape off the neck (before starting the clearcoats), I realized how awful the creme binding looked with the silver finish. I pulled it, pulled the old frets (they had grooves in them), put in the new frets (my first time on a "real" guitar, but everything went fine), and installed perloid binding with Gibson style nubs.

At that point, I had to sand down and do another coat of color because the tape I used left residue on the other coat. Then I started rushing because i wanted this to be ready for a couple gigs I had. It looks sweet from a couple feet away but looks very unprofessional up close. Of course, when the nut popped off I gave up on having it ready for the gigs.

Regarding the nut, I had to shim it anyway so I used titebond to attatch it to a thin piece of maple veneer. That joint has held extremely well. Then I tried to attatch the whole thing to the neck (as I said, the screw holes in the nut were positioned wrong). First I used titebond, but that didn't hold. Then I tried marine epoxy becuase I had it lying around - probably the worst decision I've every made because I should have known it wouldn't work. Then I tried 5 minute epoxy, but only let it dry about 14 hours before putting tension on it (rushing it for the gig, of course). It held until a few hours before I needed it, then came off. Finally, I went with 60 minute epoxy and let it dry for a full week before putting presure on it - what I should have done all along. It's held together for several days now, so I think it will be fine.


The moral of the story is that rushing a project is NEVER worth it. I made a lot of decisions on this guitar that I would never even consider under normal circumstances, and it shows. Yes, it will end up being playable, but it looks very unprofessional and it wasn't ready in time anyway. Some of the things I tried are things you'd expect from some hack, not someone who takes pride in their work.


The end.
 
Re: Charvel Model 6 truss rod nut

Zerberus said:
7mm is the exact size, I just calipered my own truss nut and wrench to make sure.

BTW the guitar is a Japanese one, the Charvel Model series were the first Jackson/Charvel Imports, introduced in 1986 ;)
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That explains it then.

I have bad memories of one of those, or rather the customer...
 
I bought one as soon as they were released in the US. Mine has a Kahler which I'm very happy about because I do not like Floyd Rose trems. It is a Japanese made guitar. Really nice playing guitar, and super versatile sounding pickups and electronics. I would love to find the exact same guitar today with a traditional trem and headstock.
 
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