magicfingers
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Can I replace the tuno-matic bridge on my Hardtail with a "standard" tuno-matic bridge ? TIA
Dean Hardtail Bridge Replacement
- Thread starter magicfingers
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Re: Dean Hardtail Bridge Replacement
I've done it on the imports. But you may want to stay clear of the wider, Nashville style. That proprietary tailpiece is meant to be screwed down tight to the body. You cant raise it like a regular stop tail. Depending on the bridge height and saddle adjustments one or more stings may not clear the back of a Nashville. I tried it once. So you may want to stick with the narrower ABR style. And do measure post spacing as BTMN suggests ... but it should be a standard import bridge. I think I have a Gotoh on one of mine.
I've done it on the imports. But you may want to stay clear of the wider, Nashville style. That proprietary tailpiece is meant to be screwed down tight to the body. You cant raise it like a regular stop tail. Depending on the bridge height and saddle adjustments one or more stings may not clear the back of a Nashville. I tried it once. So you may want to stick with the narrower ABR style. And do measure post spacing as BTMN suggests ... but it should be a standard import bridge. I think I have a Gotoh on one of mine.
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Re: Dean Hardtail Bridge Replacement
I'm not sure where you got that piece of mis-information, but it is entirely not true. You may screw it down tight to the body if you like or if you want the strings to rest on the frets, but it is designed to be height adjustable just like the ABR so you CAN adjust your action.
First of all...trying it "once" should not give you the confidence to make such bold previous statements.
It IS true that the Nashville is wider than the ABR and that (depending on your guitar and how you have your bridge and stopbar setup) some strings MAY hit the back of the bridge. That can be corrected either by raising the stopbar (which I have done with great success on several guitars) or by filing the back of the bridge right under the strings that are touching it. Relieve the bridge just like you would relieve the back of your nut (toward the tuners) so the strings only touch a small spot at the front of the nut, or only on the saddle of the bridge. This is really quite easy and completely effective with no negative consequences on tone. And I have not only "tried it once" but have successfully DONE it MANY times.
I much prefer the Nashville because of its greater range for intonation which is necessary on some guitars with certain strings, and so I am willing to spend the extra time and effort to get my guitars "right". However, if you are lazy and just don't want to bother or don't care about your tone/tuning/intonation, then by all means stick with the ABR. And, admittedly, sometimes the ABR is all that you need to get perfect intonation on your instrument. But don't discount the Nashville just because you tried it once and it didn't work out for YOU.
I'm not sure where you got that piece of mis-information, but it is entirely not true. You may screw it down tight to the body if you like or if you want the strings to rest on the frets, but it is designed to be height adjustable just like the ABR so you CAN adjust your action.
First of all...trying it "once" should not give you the confidence to make such bold previous statements.
It IS true that the Nashville is wider than the ABR and that (depending on your guitar and how you have your bridge and stopbar setup) some strings MAY hit the back of the bridge. That can be corrected either by raising the stopbar (which I have done with great success on several guitars) or by filing the back of the bridge right under the strings that are touching it. Relieve the bridge just like you would relieve the back of your nut (toward the tuners) so the strings only touch a small spot at the front of the nut, or only on the saddle of the bridge. This is really quite easy and completely effective with no negative consequences on tone. And I have not only "tried it once" but have successfully DONE it MANY times.
I much prefer the Nashville because of its greater range for intonation which is necessary on some guitars with certain strings, and so I am willing to spend the extra time and effort to get my guitars "right". However, if you are lazy and just don't want to bother or don't care about your tone/tuning/intonation, then by all means stick with the ABR. And, admittedly, sometimes the ABR is all that you need to get perfect intonation on your instrument. But don't discount the Nashville just because you tried it once and it didn't work out for YOU.
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Re: Dean Hardtail Bridge Replacement
Sorry Doc, I generally respect your input and opinions, but you are misreading what I've written and you apparently are not familiar with the guitar in question.
I NEVER stated that the Nashville bridge is not adjustable. I stated that the proprietary tailpiece of the Dean Hardtail is not height adjustable. Dean Hardtail Tailpiece ... NOT Nashville tune-o-matic bridge.
The Dean Hardtail does not have a Stopbar tailpiece. It has a proprietary tailpiece that cannot be raised like a Stopbar. Surely, you can file relief into the back of the Nashville if string contact is an issue, but my thinking was that the OP was looking for a drop in solution, so to speak. I am familiar with this guitar, I own two of them. My advice was sound.
Sorry Doc, I generally respect your input and opinions, but you are misreading what I've written and you apparently are not familiar with the guitar in question.
I NEVER stated that the Nashville bridge is not adjustable. I stated that the proprietary tailpiece of the Dean Hardtail is not height adjustable. Dean Hardtail Tailpiece ... NOT Nashville tune-o-matic bridge.
The Dean Hardtail does not have a Stopbar tailpiece. It has a proprietary tailpiece that cannot be raised like a Stopbar. Surely, you can file relief into the back of the Nashville if string contact is an issue, but my thinking was that the OP was looking for a drop in solution, so to speak. I am familiar with this guitar, I own two of them. My advice was sound.
