Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Monsta-Tone

New member
I've been wanting another PRS CE (bolt on maple neck) for a while now.
My neighbor called the other day and told me that he was finally ready to part with his 1994 CE22 for $900. Not a stellar deal, especially because the very next day there was an all mahogany CE22 (2001) for $750. But....with shipping to Maui, I would have been out over $1,200 if I got one anywhere else and this one has a super nice maple top!

Here are the specs:
1994 PRS CE22
Wide Thin neck - maple - bolt on - rosewood fretboard
PRS tremolo - aluminum block (super bright with tons of clarity)
Duncan Full Shred (C-10 not the C-10n) in the neck
Duncan Dimebucker in the bridge
500k push/pull pot for volume (coil splitter on the push/pull)
500k stock PRS tone pot
Not sure of the capacitor, the numbers are turned down, so I have to remove the pot to get to it. I'm guessing that it's the stock PRS cap.

These pickups sound HUGE in this guitar, almost like active pickups with better range. It's super aggressive with gobs of sustain and output, and massive low end.
BUT.....
With the aluminum block, they are a little shrill. I can use all of my other guitars with my amp and my ears are just fine afterward. With the same amp settings, this guitar makes my ears ring! It's not much louder than my JS1000, but has WAY more upper frequency range.
I plan on experimenting with the Volume pot value a little today, and the cap and Tone pot. I've never been a fan of 250k pots in a humbucker guitar though.

When I turn the Tone pot all the way down, the guitar's tone is much warmer on the upper frequencies, but it also looses a lot of the sizzle too. If it weren't for that, I would just always play it with the tone turned down and not worry about it. I am thinking that I want to take out some of the highs, but not all of them.

Here is what I plan on trying today, but wanted to have some input in case I missed something:
1. parallel resistor with Volume pot to find the correct value where I tame the ice pick, but do not loose clarity and aggression
2. parallel resistor with Tone pot for the same reason
3. change tone cap
4. change function of push/pull to change Tone caps instead of coil split. I never use a split coil.
5. treble bleed cap w/parallel resistor?


If I decide that this guitar is just too aggressive with this pickup combination:
I also have a P-Rails neck pickup that I might try with the Full Shred in the bridge. Not sure how that will work with the Full Shred being standard spacing though.
I usually lean more toward medium output pickups so that I can have stellar clean tones and then just crank the gain on the amp (Mesa Rectoverb) for the amount of overdrive I want.

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

I forgot to add:
I am also thinking about changing the block to brass, which should really help, but I am trying to do things that I can afford for now.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

I'd start with a 300k or 250k tone pot, and change the tone cap to match.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

What do you think a good value for the cap would be? .033, .047?
Most PRS guitars I have seen have a .022.

Also, does the tone cap make a difference when the volume and tone are up at 10?
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

I don't know about cap values; that's something I've never played with much.

But the tone cap is always in the circuit and will affect the tone regardless of the position of the volume and tone knobs. The tone circuit usually sits in parallel with the input ("top") of the volume pot and with the output of the switch, on a 2-H, 1-Vol, 1-Tone guitar. The capacitor is in series with some portion of the value of the tone pot -- anything from 0% to 100%, and the values of the pot and the cap will always be factors.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Hmmm.....
Interesting. I always just assumed (yeah, I know...) that when the tone cap was up all the way that it was out of the circuit for the most part.
I know that guys like EVH don't normally even have a tone pot, but I thought it was just because they never used it.
 
That's surprising about the aluminum tremolo block, I thought original PRS were steel. Aluminum tailpieces compared to the cast zinc on Les Paul's tend to brighten things up, so if you switch to a brass block that should help to warm up the guitar.

Also, if I recall, the 94 CE's still were made with Alder bodies, sometime after 2000 they switched to mahogany bodies- so the pickups you have may be too shrill altogether for an alder body guitar
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

I was really surprised too! It is definitely machined aluminum.
I found this on PRS's website, guess my guitar does have an Alder back, I thought it was Mahogany:
BOLT-ON MODELS

CLASSIC ELECTRIC (CE BOLT-ON): 1988 - Current. 24-fret maple neck, unfaced headstock, dot inlays, alder body, PRS Vintage pickups, tone control, and 3-way toggle selector. Rosewood fretboard, wide-thin neck options by ’89. Black headstock face and 5-way rotary switch by mid-’89. HFS Treble/Vintage Bass finalized by ’91. Maple top version- the CE Bolt-on Maple Top- added in ’89. Mahogany body/ back from ’95 as well as stop-tail option. Solid Mahogany body discontinued in 2000, stop tailpiece & regular neck profile discontinued in 2001. Offered as wide thin, tremolo only from 2001.

CLASSIC ELECTRIC 22: 1994 - Current. 22-fret versions of CE Bolt-on and CE Bolt-on Maple-Top. Mahogany body/ back from ’95 as well as stop-tail option. Solid Mahogany body discontinued in 2000, stop tailpiece & wide thin neck profile discontinued in 2001. Offered as wide fat, tremolo only from 2001.

And got this info from the PRS Forum:
But as far as the bridge material goes, yes when PRS went from using one piece Mil-Com bridges to the two-piece Excel bridges they experimented with a stainless bridge with a brass block that was later changed to aluminum. This was around `92 or `93. They weren't real popular and they resumed use of brass pretty quickly.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Ok, so I scraped a tiny bit of paint off inside the tremolo cavity. The body is definitely Mahogany.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

The tone cap that was in the guitar was a .022 chicklet (small green crappy cap).
I replaced it with a .047 716P series Orange Drop.
This made the neck pup sound fantastic!

The bridge is still way too bright though.....

So now, I am looking for a high output humbucker that has the harmonics and attack of the Dimebucker, but with more solid bass (or less treble) and more pick dynamics.
Any suggestions?
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Lower the resistance on the volume pot first. Through a few different resistors in parallel, and work out which one suits you the best. Cheapest way to to it.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Check the answer 22 here:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/faq/seymours-q-a/125/

I'd personally recommend a small cap somewhere between 150pf and 1n, in order to shift down the resonant frequency without making it too middy... Unless you use a different cable with a difference capacitance between your axe and its first "host".

FWIW: I had a Dimebucker in bridge pos in a bright guitar, whose pickups were buffered by a GK transducer just after the output.
Hence an extremely bright sound.
I've tamed it with an added resistor accross the vol pot + a 800pf cap between ground and hot point (800pf = the capacitance of 5 or 6m of average cable).
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Take out the Dimebucker.

Go Custom 5 in the bridge.
 
Re: Dimebucker & Full Shred in a PRS w/Aluminum Tremolo Block = SHRILL!!!!

Thanks guys!
I'll try a low value cap (from the pickup hot wire to ground) like it said to do in the Duncan FAQ's.
If that doesn't work, then I'll just replace the Dimebucker.
I'm not that partial to it yet anyway.

I like for my bridge pickup to sound like a souped up neck pickup. Don't like bright tones at all!
 
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