Do I really need string trees?

[Rex_Rocker]

OK, so you know my Strat, right? It has a string tree right now for the E and B string (feels so odd calling strings a note they're not tuned to, but whatever).

I've got a replacement neck on the way that doesn't come pre-drilled for a string tree. Do I really need a string tree there? I'll be keeping the Fender modern non-locking tuners made by Ping. You know, the standard squared back ones. So they are not staggered or anything.

But what would happen if I don't drill the string tree? Will my high top strings pop out of the nut slot?

 

[Securb]

Maybe, maybe not. It really depends on your playing style. If it becomes a problem add a tree if not don't sweat it.

 

[Chistopher]

I've never had any issues without them. I think they look a little better though

 

[JMP/HBE]

Yes, i play medium guage.

 

[Rex_Rocker]

Yes, i play medium guage.

I play 11's.

So you think the higher the gauge, the I would need them? Or the more?

 

[solspirit]

Totally depends on string guage, as far as I know. But do not take my word for it. I've put them on a few Strats, but I've had the same experience with or without and never noticed a difference. If you have graduated height tuners, you don't need them.

 

[JMP/HBE]

I play 11's.

So you think the higher the gauge, the I would need them? Or the more?

String trees whether Fender or Floyd are on guitars for a reason.

 

[ehdwuld]

If you have a reverse headstock then NO

The string angle from the nut to the far inline tuner
Is too shallow
When bending the high E will slip out
The thick bass strings dont do that with the reverse headstock

Alternatively
If you have deeper grooves in the nut
you may not see the issue
But it may vbrate in the slot due to not enough downward pressure

Tilt back headstock eliminates this too

 

[Rex_Rocker]

Yeah, well... I guess I'm going to have to install one then, just to be safe. Or maybe get the locking tuners.

 

[solspirit]

Yeah, well... I guess I'm going to have to install one then, just to be safe. Or maybe get the locking tuners.

Locking tuners and graduated tuners solves the problem.

 

[Securb]

Yeah, well... I guess I'm going to have to install one then, just to be safe. Or maybe get the locking tuners.

Locking tuners are always a great idea but I would hold off on the string tree and see if you have a problem first. I have a very aggressive strumming attack sometimes so I need the tree even with staggered tuners. If you do get a tree I highly recommend the roller trees.

 

[ehdwuld]

Floyd retaining bar

 

[Clint 55]

It has a string tree right now for the E and B string (feels so odd calling strings a note they're not tuned to, but whatever).

1st and 2nd string?

 

[GuitarDoc]

Locking tuners and graduated tuners solves the problem.

A big "NO".

 

[GuitarDoc]

Floyd retaining bar

Oh, gross!

 

[GuitarDoc]

I've never played a Strat type headstock that didn't sound better with string trees (even with staggered height tuners).

 

[Napthol]

The E string is the E string. The B string is the B string. Unless you are tuning flat. Then the E string is still called the E string, it's just tuned to E-flat.

 

[Mincer]

I will add that I've never had a problem having them. All my Strat-ish guitars have them, and having them doesn't cause any issues.

 

[Rex_Rocker]

The E string is the E string. The B string is the B string. Unless you are tuning flat. Then the E string is still called the E string, it's just tuned to E-flat.

E double flat and B double flat, I guess, then.

 

[marcello252]

I have staggered locking tuners on my strats (vintage bridges) and I need a tree for E and B, for the D and G, it depends on many factors, nut, strings gauge, type of picking. I'm a steel worker hitting the strings but I don't need it, who knows , other may feel the urge .

I do agree anyhow that even with locking trems the trees, or a bar, make difference in tone, unless you have a tilted headstock that already has a angle
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