Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (me)

BluesGuyJ

New member
So I have realized that the way I have been wrapping strings around the tuning posts has been very sloppy and is probably contributing to tuning instability much more than I have been giving my technique credit for. I've tried looking up different videos/tutorials on how to restring a guitar and lock the string at the tuning peg, but it's all demonstrations, there is little to no detailed explination given. I am hoping you guys can help me out here...

I'd like to try testing new techniques on my SG, which has locking tuners that seal from behind the headstock.

For example, how do you bend the string to get it to lock in the hole of the post? People mention this 3 finger measurement of the string, is that measure with the slack of the string once it is fed through the hole of the post? Do you then make a 90 degree bend so that the string is facing horizontal or vertical with that bent portion of the string? Any help would be deeply appreciated. Again, I am low vision enough so that I can not make out videos or pictures.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

Wrapping would defeat the purpose of locking tuners. You pull through until tight, then lock. The wraps allow slack which can cause instability. By eliminating them, you increase the tuning stability.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

Loosen the lock knob. Pass the string through the hole in the tuner post, pull the string tight, then tighten the lock knob. Then you tune up the guitar. Stretch the strings, retune, and repeat until the guitar holds tune when you stretch the strings. The point of locking tuners is to eliminate or minimize wraps, as wraps make the string more unstable. You should not go any more than half a wrap or so around the posts, or you are defeating any tuning advantages given to you by the locking tuners.
 
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Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

Which exact make and model of locking machine head is under discussion here?

Some lock with a thumbwheel below the gear housing. Some lock from the top of the post downwards. Old PRS 'heads have a wing collar release mechanism. It is necessary to align this collar relative to the milled flat on the post before threading each string.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

As others mentioned if you're using locking tuners with a typical thumb wheel on the back to lock the string you don't want to wrap the strings at all, the locking part of the tuner takes the place of the wraps. Pass the string through the unlocked tuner hole (keeping the string hole in the tuner aligned with the nut slot helps but it's not crucial that it be perfectly aligned) and pull the string as tight as you can by hand as you use your other hand to tighten the thumb wheel to lock in the string. Then cut off the remaining tail of the string and tune up the guitar. Next stretch the strings like mad pulling them up off the board pinched between your index finger,ring finger and thumb. It helps to have your other hand resting over the nut so you don't pull them out of the slots but just pull the slack out of them working down each string from around the bridge pickup up to around the 3rd fret or so stretching them. Then tune up again and possibly repeat the stretch one more time.

Properly stretching new strings is really one of the big keys to tuning stability. Once strings are stretched to their relaxed point (I guess you could call it) they usually stay stable unless there's a nut issue pinching them, a tuner that slips or a climate change that makes the neck bow one way or the other.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

As others mentioned if you're using locking tuners with a typical thumb wheel on the back to lock the string you don't want to wrap the strings at all, the locking part of the tuner takes the place of the wraps. Pass the string through the unlocked tuner hole (keeping the string hole in the tuner aligned with the nut slot helps but it's not crucial that it be perfectly aligned) and pull the string as tight as you can by hand as you use your other hand to tighten the thumb wheel to lock in the string. Then cut off the remaining tail of the string and tune up the guitar. Next stretch the strings like mad pulling them up off the board pinched between your index finger,ring finger and thumb. It helps to have your other hand resting over the nut so you don't pull them out of the slots but just pull the slack out of them working down each string from around the bridge pickup up to around the 3rd fret or so stretching them. Then tune up again and possibly repeat the stretch one more time.

Properly stretching new strings is really one of the big keys to tuning stability. Once strings are stretched to their relaxed point (I guess you could call it) they usually stay stable unless there's a nut issue pinching them, a tuner that slips or a climate change that makes the neck bow one way or the other.

Hi XXSIVE

I recently switched to Locking tuners and found something interesting. After installing all strings (.09 gauge) I started to pull them up (out of the fingerboard) to stretch them and unfortunately snapped the high E

I have a theory as of why this happened but I would like to confirm with you since you seem to have experience with locking tuners.

Ok, what I think happened was that since the string is locked in place and there's no extra wrapping if I pull the string up and down I would be effectively twisting it at the tuner thus I end snapping it. Pretty much like when you have a piece of wire and bend it multiple times until the material fails.

Is that the reason?... So with locking tuners you SHOULD NOT pull them up and instead you should bend the strings either by playing bends or pinching in a horizontal way. Is that correct?

Thanks a lot for your insight on this.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

Bending them across the board is acceptable, though some may claim the nut slot may get worn excessively as opposed to pulling away from the board.

If you're breaking the string, you're pulling too hard.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

What everyone else has said, with locking tuners you just insert, lock it down, then tune and stretch.

On a side note, wrapping the strings with that extra little twist or bend or loop at the end causes breakage at that point. Then it just takes you longer to change that broken string. The only place I've ever broken strings has been at the point where my pick hits them.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

Put your left index finger on the 12th fret with the guitar laying flat in your lap , with your right hand put 2 fingers under the string and pull up straight away from the fretboard. I will do it on the 5th fret too then just tune it and do a bend normally to see if it stays in tune. Lather, rinse and repeat on all strings.If you break strings you pulled too hard period , just use common sense and some restraint.
 
Re: Explaining how to restring and wrap a string in locking tuners, to a blind guy (m

I recently switched to Locking tuners and found something interesting. After installing all strings (.09 gauge) I started to pull them up (out of the fingerboard) to stretch them and unfortunately snapped the high E.

At what point along the length of the string did it break? More importantly, what sort of guitar and what hardware does it have?

Extreme overtensioning of strings can tear off the ball ends. This is why some Kahler users apply solder to the wrapped end of each string. Sharp edges on metal hardware are the likeliest cause of breakage on freshly fitted strings.
 
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