Inflames626
New member
Hi guys,
I posted a thread months or maybe even over a year ago about putting a FR on some of my import 90s Jacksons. They all use the Takeuchi JT580LP, which is like a Floyd Rose Pro--the saddle screws do not come out the back--but it uses OFR dimensions (I've tried an FR Pro in the route. It didn't work.)
The bridge looks like this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/391362252507-0-1/s-l1000.jpg
The reason for the swap is 1) I didn't know when I bought the guitars that there were so many small variations in FR bridges 2) no flutter effect due to lightweight block--brass Takeuchi blocks seem to be hard to find and 3) tuning stability--OFR saddle blocks would probably solve this but I still wouldn't get the flutter.
I tried an OFR and it works in my 2000 Japanese KV3 (although with a small gap on the side left side or upper side in playing position). The problem is that the saddle screws sometimes stick out too far when the guitar is low tuned and intonated properly, preventing a full pull up. I don't want to route out more body wood.
I'm also looking at the Schaller and the Gotoh ge1996t. I can see the size differences in the diagrams but I'm not sure which has the shortest screws.
Can anyone recommend the bridge with the shortest saddle screws when fully extended?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Also, another issue I had is the OFR nuts are too tall for my import nut shelf. I solved this by taking the nut to a machinist and having them use a surface grinder to match the OFR nut to the import nut (using a rasp just takes off the finish). But it's about an extra $10 each time I do that. The import R3 nut height at the D string is about .233" or 5.9 mm; the OFR is .278" or 7.1 mm.
OFR:
https://www.wdmusic.com/media/floyd_rose_chart.html
I noticed Gotoh's GHL-2 R3 nut is 5.6 mm. Do you guys think I could get away with using a Gotoh nut and an OFR bridge if both are R3?
Gotoh:
http://g-gotoh.com/international/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/GHL-2-Dim2-1.jpg
The problem is the radii--the Gotoh is about 400 mm and the OFR is 304 mm.
I could probably just leave the import nut on and just use the OFR clamps (the import zinc clamps begin to form grooves after a while), but I want to use the better parts--I'm already leaving the import bridge posts in so I don't have to redrill larger post holes for the OFR posts.
I don't think leaving the import nut in would make a difference, but I think it would eventually start to wear as well and allow the string to slip.
All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
I posted a thread months or maybe even over a year ago about putting a FR on some of my import 90s Jacksons. They all use the Takeuchi JT580LP, which is like a Floyd Rose Pro--the saddle screws do not come out the back--but it uses OFR dimensions (I've tried an FR Pro in the route. It didn't work.)
The bridge looks like this:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/391362252507-0-1/s-l1000.jpg
The reason for the swap is 1) I didn't know when I bought the guitars that there were so many small variations in FR bridges 2) no flutter effect due to lightweight block--brass Takeuchi blocks seem to be hard to find and 3) tuning stability--OFR saddle blocks would probably solve this but I still wouldn't get the flutter.
I tried an OFR and it works in my 2000 Japanese KV3 (although with a small gap on the side left side or upper side in playing position). The problem is that the saddle screws sometimes stick out too far when the guitar is low tuned and intonated properly, preventing a full pull up. I don't want to route out more body wood.
I'm also looking at the Schaller and the Gotoh ge1996t. I can see the size differences in the diagrams but I'm not sure which has the shortest screws.
Can anyone recommend the bridge with the shortest saddle screws when fully extended?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Also, another issue I had is the OFR nuts are too tall for my import nut shelf. I solved this by taking the nut to a machinist and having them use a surface grinder to match the OFR nut to the import nut (using a rasp just takes off the finish). But it's about an extra $10 each time I do that. The import R3 nut height at the D string is about .233" or 5.9 mm; the OFR is .278" or 7.1 mm.
OFR:
https://www.wdmusic.com/media/floyd_rose_chart.html
I noticed Gotoh's GHL-2 R3 nut is 5.6 mm. Do you guys think I could get away with using a Gotoh nut and an OFR bridge if both are R3?
Gotoh:
http://g-gotoh.com/international/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/GHL-2-Dim2-1.jpg
The problem is the radii--the Gotoh is about 400 mm and the OFR is 304 mm.
I could probably just leave the import nut on and just use the OFR clamps (the import zinc clamps begin to form grooves after a while), but I want to use the better parts--I'm already leaving the import bridge posts in so I don't have to redrill larger post holes for the OFR posts.
I don't think leaving the import nut in would make a difference, but I think it would eventually start to wear as well and allow the string to slip.
All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
