Fretboard cleaner and oil

[solspirit]

What do you use?

 

[GuitarStv]

I have a stiff bristled nylon brush and a rag. Works great on ebony, rosewood, and maple for getting rid of crap. I used to use a small amount of dunlop freboard conditioner after cleaning my rosewood board because it would start to look lighter and unevenly dry. Eventually I figured out that a coat of Danish oil every three or four years works better.

 

[formula73]

Gerlitz Guitar Honey after I clean the crap off/polish frets with 0000 steel wool.

Yes, I put masking tape over my pickups.

 

[solspirit]

I have a stiff bristled nylon brush and a rag. Works great on ebony, rosewood, and maple for getting rid of crap. I used to use a small amount of dunlop freboard conditioner after cleaning my rosewood board because it would start to look lighter and unevenly dry. Eventually I figured out that a coat of Danish oil every three or four years works better.

Yeah almost the same here but no Danish oil.
. I've always used lemon oil on all fretboards and if they were really dry some mineral oil. Lately I've been seeing a lot of people saying that lemon oil is not good for your fretboard in the long run. I'm pretty sure the Dunlop stuff you're talking about is lemon oil or has lemon oil.

 

[Chris Pile]

Howard Feed'N'Wax and a microfiber cloth.

Howard Feed-N-Wax Oil-based Wood Polish and Conditioner (1-Pint) in the Wood Conditioners department at Lowes.com

 

[eclecticsynergy]

Yeah almost the same here but no Danish oil.
. I've always used lemon oil on all fretboards and if they were really dry some mineral oil. Lately I've been seeing a lot of people saying that lemon oil is not good for your fretboard in the long run. I'm pretty sure the Dunlop stuff you're talking about is lemon oil or has lemon oil.

Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use.
I wouldn't put anything food-based on my guitars anyway. Risks rancidity and might even attract pests.
Most so-called lemon products for wood (furniture or fretboards) actually are lemon-scented mineral oil which is fine.

I used Formby's Lemon Oil for furniture on my guitars over a period of decades without any ill effects.
Mineral oil based; not sure it's made anymore. Still have half a bottle somewhere on the back shelf.
A few years back I switched to Fret Doctor bore oil; it absorbs quickly.

Today most players understand that oiling a rosewood board is really more a cosmetic treatment than a matter of maintenence.
And you don't need to do it very often, maybe every year or two, or when a board actually starts to look dry.
Ebony needs it even less often. Some say not at all.
I do my ebony boards with Feed N Wax anyway, but only at intervals of three to five years.

One thing about ebony is, it really needs to be kept well humidified. All guitar woods need this, not just acoustics.
But ebony is particularly sensitive - it shrinks more than rosewood if it gets dried out and that can cause serious problems.
Regrettably, I know this from costly personal experience.

Every guitar is happier when it's well-humidified.
IMO staying on top of that is more important than oiling your fretboards.
Of course those who dwell in humid climes don't need to worry much about it.

 

[Mincer]

I use the Ernie Ball wipes, which seem to work well, as long as you wipe off the excess.

 

[solspirit]

I used to use Formsby's but I ran out the last time I used it. After seeing what I did about it damaging the wood, I posted here to find an alternative.

 

[Demanic]

I've used Dunlop's for years and never had a problem. If there is a lot of buildup on fretboard, I use a credit card to scrape it off.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk

 

[PFDarkside]

I've used Dunlop's for years and never had a problem. If there is a lot of buildup on fretboard, I use a credit card to scrape it off.

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk

Same, and it’s pretty infrequent.

 

[ehdwuld]

Old English lemon oil

 

[solspirit]

I use oil from the eyebrows of runway models.

Ha.. I would double like this if I could.

 

[solspirit]

I use oil from the eyebrows of runway models.

Brunettes are better aren't they?

 

[GuitarStv]

I use oil from the eyebrows of runway models.

I've only got runaway models in the freezer. Will that work too, or no?

 

[solspirit]

I've only got runaway models in the freezer. Will that work too, or no?

How did you become the forum slasher? There must be a story behind it, self admission?

 

[beaubrummels]

I use Gibson fret board cleaner/treatment. Darkens at first, dries to normal color afterward. Can't tell if it's helping or not. Probably would take 10 years to tell.

 

[dave74]

Actual lemon oil contains solvents which can actually harm your instrument with prolonged use.
I wouldn't put anything food-based on my guitars anyway. Risks rancidity and might even attract pests.
Most so-called lemon products for wood (furniture or fretboards) actually are lemon-scented mineral oil which is fine.

I used Formby's Lemon Oil for furniture on my guitars over a period of decades without any ill effects.
Mineral oil based; not sure it's made anymore. Still have half a bottle somewhere on the back shelf.
A few years back I switched to Fret Doctor bore oil; it absorbs quickly.

Today most players understand that oiling a rosewood board is really more a cosmetic treatment than a matter of maintenence.
And you don't need to do it very often, maybe every year or two, or when a board actually starts to look dry.
Ebony needs it even less often. Some say not at all.
I do my ebony boards with Feed N Wax anyway, but only at intervals of three to five years.

One thing about ebony is, it really needs to be kept well humidified. All guitar woods need this, not just acoustics.
But ebony is particularly sensitive - it shrinks more than rosewood if it gets dried out and that can cause serious problems.
Regrettably, I know this from costly personal experience.

Every guitar is happier when it's well-humidified.
IMO staying on top of that is more important than oiling your fretboards.
Of course those who dwell in humid climes don't need to worry much about it.

Yes ebony really hates low humidity for long periods. I've seen many ebony boards with splits in the wood because of being in constant dryness.
They really do split in a brittle fashion too. I suppose if one has an ebony board out in dryness all the time it's a good practice to lightly oil it often.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

Howard Feed'N'Wax and a microfiber cloth.

Howard Feed-N-Wax Oil-based Wood Polish and Conditioner (1-Pint) in the Wood Conditioners department at Lowes.com

Same. I got turned onto that by Warwick bass owners. Many Warwicks only have oil finishes on the body and neck. Howard’s was recommended as a several times a year protectant, and I’ve started using it on my fretboards, as well.

My skin doesn’t like most of the fretboard conditioners, and I end up with dry and peeling hands after using them. No such issues with the Howard’s.

 

[solspirit]

Well I looked this morning and no Ebony fret boards. It looks like 4 rosewood, 1 maple, 2 that I have no idea. One of them looks like it may be rosewood but I have my doubts and another one on an old Harmony that looks like it's dyed.
oh yeah, I live on the plains in NM, so it gets pretty dry here.

 

[eclecticsynergy]

Yes ebony really hates low humidity for long periods. I've seen many ebony boards with splits in the wood because of being in constant dryness.
They really do split in a brittle fashion too. I suppose if one has an ebony board out in dryness all the time it's a good practice to lightly oil it often.

Agreed. But my point was that oil and moisture are two separate issues.

Woods can tolerate lack of oil just fine; it only affects the look.
Drying out from lack of moisture can actually cause problems or even do actual damage.


Acoustic owners tend to be aware of this, but those with electrics need to keep it in mind as well.

EDIT: I suppose a good coating of oil might help ebony lose its moisture more slowly, sort of a protective barrier. Still, after my '74 Guild dried out too much and needed a complete refret plus crack repairs where the fretboard had actually pulled away from the guitar's top, I'm careful to keep all ebony boards in cases with humidification myself.