Frets cutting thumb?
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GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
It depends on exactly what the problem is.
First check if frets are properly seated (if they raise up a bit from the wood they're super sharp). If no, then they need to be clamped (and maybe glued) down. Doing this might solve 'frets sticking out' problems.
Next check if the fretboard is dehydrated and has shrunken (fret ends properly seated but poking over the edge of the fretboard). If this is the case, it's probably not a bad idea to file/sand the frets down a bit but you will want to condition the fretboard with some mineral oil afterwards so that it expands back and the frets stop sticking out.
If the frets themselves are rough feeling, then it's a judgement call. You might want to slightly round off the fret ends with a file, or you might be able to get away with just using some sandpaper to smooth them out. I usually start out with 150 grit, then move to 200, 250, 300, 400, 600, and finally 800. If you take a thin strip of sandpaper and glue them to popsicle sticks they work pretty well for doing this sort of fine work and you can set the sandpaper just a little bit back from the edge of the popsicle stick so it's less likely to scrape the fretboard.
For any fretwork it's probably a good idea to use masking tape to cover the fretboard because you'll occasionally slip with your tools. There are metal fretboard guards that you can buy which are probably less fiddly and better than working with masking tape, but I've never used them. Also remember that you usually only want to take off a VERY TINY BIT of the fret when working. It's easy to overdo things and make 'em worse (especially with a file). The work itself is very simple, but it can be time consuming.
First check if frets are properly seated (if they raise up a bit from the wood they're super sharp). If no, then they need to be clamped (and maybe glued) down. Doing this might solve 'frets sticking out' problems.
Next check if the fretboard is dehydrated and has shrunken (fret ends properly seated but poking over the edge of the fretboard). If this is the case, it's probably not a bad idea to file/sand the frets down a bit but you will want to condition the fretboard with some mineral oil afterwards so that it expands back and the frets stop sticking out.
If the frets themselves are rough feeling, then it's a judgement call. You might want to slightly round off the fret ends with a file, or you might be able to get away with just using some sandpaper to smooth them out. I usually start out with 150 grit, then move to 200, 250, 300, 400, 600, and finally 800. If you take a thin strip of sandpaper and glue them to popsicle sticks they work pretty well for doing this sort of fine work and you can set the sandpaper just a little bit back from the edge of the popsicle stick so it's less likely to scrape the fretboard.
For any fretwork it's probably a good idea to use masking tape to cover the fretboard because you'll occasionally slip with your tools. There are metal fretboard guards that you can buy which are probably less fiddly and better than working with masking tape, but I've never used them. Also remember that you usually only want to take off a VERY TINY BIT of the fret when working. It's easy to overdo things and make 'em worse (especially with a file). The work itself is very simple, but it can be time consuming.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Don't wrap your thumb around the neck. It's ergonomically bad form and will eventually cause your hand muscle problems. Ask me how I know.
Other than that, file 'em down. I'd consult Dan Erlwine videos for how.
Other than that, file 'em down. I'd consult Dan Erlwine videos for how.
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
How do you bend?
Chistopher
malapterurus electricus tonewood instigator
Where else are you supposed to put it?
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Tip of thumb on the center of the back of the neck. Only the tips of your fingers should come in contact with the neck; on the strings on the fretboard. In practice, some of your hand will contact the neck from time to time, e.g. with barre chords, but the proper position, which gives the maximum flexibility to reach frets and strings, is fingertips only touching the neck as much as possible.
Same as anyone, push your fingers one side or the other on the fret to push/pull the string to whatever note you want. It's much easier to do if all the real estate of your hand isn't consumed by the back of the neck. You have way more travel for the fingers if only the tip of your thumb is in contact with the center of the neck on the back.
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
I've never seen anyone effectively bend a string on a guitar without placing their thumb on the top of the neck. You don't need to hook the thumb way over into the strings, but it's 100% necessary to move the thumb off the middle of the back of the neck - because you have zero leverage to control the bend otherwise. Don't get me wrong - thumb in the center of the neck is the right way to play a lot of stuff (maybe even most stuff . . . legato, barre chords, any kind of wide fret stretching, most classical style finger picking). But it's not correct technique for bending a string at all. Most players I see and know will alternate between thumb up top for bending and thumb to the middle of the back of the neck for other stuff.
Are you a classical guy or do you play a style of jazz or something where bent strings are uncommon?
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Yes, I was trained in classical guitar at the San Francisco Conservatory of Music. But to the contrary, ever since then for the last 40 years, I've played rock, country, folk, pop, funk, some metal, you name it, and I bend all over the place; boomer bending like crazy and have no problems bending a .009 - .011 string at standard tuning with my fingers using classical technique. Part of the reason is in addition to hand position, the set up of the guitar and having a light touch, just enough downward pressure to get a clear note from the fret, leaves you with plenty of muscle dexterity to bend the strings. It isn't like do one thing and everything is solved. There's a combination of hand techniques and guitar set up that enable you to perform.
Do what you have to, if you need to grip the neck, hey whatever you gotta do. I'm just saying it's not ergonomically good for the hands and that over time, you may sustain some injury to your hands in the form of tendonitis, pulled muscles or other issues. But rock on however you need to.
Chistopher
malapterurus electricus tonewood instigator
Yeah, now that I think of it most of the time my hand is floating, but I do wrap my thumb onto the high e string a lot.
Clint 55
OH THE DOUBLE THICK GLAZE!
Okie dokie so quick n dirty method is 400 sandpaper on a hard block and just go to town on the sprouted ends. Run the block parallel with the neck. 400 has enough cut to run down the high frets but it will leave everything smooth enough. Squier Affinities usually don't have finish on the neck.
Or you could learn some actual luthier work. Fret ends only require a 1/4 round file if you're interested.
Some of my frets with a full job including rounded ends.
Or you could learn some actual luthier work. Fret ends only require a 1/4 round file if you're interested.
Some of my frets with a full job including rounded ends.
Phantasmagoria
watch where you point that sabre
Yeah, me neither . All I do is "thumb centre of neck" for everything (and I do a lot of string bending). I can't play a thing with my thumb over the top..
And I would just file down the fret ends if they're sharp..
Chris Pile
Well-known member
This is a common thing with fretboards that dry out in the wintertime - it's called "fret sprout".... a total misnomer. The wood is shrinking, the frets are not. A competent and experienced luthier can bevel the frets ends with a file and sandpaper to polish the edge of the fingerboard and make it comfortable yet again. If you are not handy with tools, do not attempt this.
