Yeah factory Gibson pickups, in particular the 498/490, get slandered often enough on forums. Not everybody, not all the time, but enough to notice there's a group of people that express a big dislike if not hate for them.
My experience with the 498/490 is they work fine for everything, with adjustment. I mentioned in another thread somewhere that if I sink the screws below the covers and raise the pickups, they're like a scooped heavy metal monster; in the realm of Distortion, Super Distortion, etc. But if I raise the screws above the cover and lower the pickup almost below the rings, it gets the mid bump of a PAF, but it's just not quite as clear and chimey, but it works and is pretty competitive to most PAF types out there. Through a good amp, the 498/490 are not the weakest link.
But because it's a do-all utility pickup, there's a cluster of players that malign it because it didn't do the one thing they wanted well enough.
For me, I totally see why Gibson designed that pickup set and puts it in so many guitars - they can't predict what music their guitars will be used for so they successfully designed a pickup that can be adjusted to get a wide range of sounds/EQ and perform a very wide range of music very well.
I like Gibson pickups in general, personally.
Burstbucker 2/3, didn't love, didn't mind. Just too low output for me.
Burstbucker Pros, loved them, they remind me edgier of Duncan '59's. If they made a potted Burstbucker 3 Pro, that'd be perfect.
500T, fantastic, I like it as much as the Black Winter and more than the Ducan Distortion.
498T, fantastic, I like it for being kinda like an edgier, more open JB.
490R, horrible, weak, dark, and generic.
They all seem to be as well made as Duncans, but then I guess you're paying for the premium for the company that has been makind humbuckers longer than anyone else, I suppose.
Not sure I agree with your assesment saying it's the metal pickups that are scooped and the PAF's that are middy. It's the other way around, in my experience.
But yeah, I guess I agree with your assesment of the 498T beind kind of a jack of all trades. It works for me, though. I'd rather have a 498T than a JB, personally, and that's saying a lot because I love the JB as well.