Has anyone here re-wired a MIK Sheraton II?

[Benjy_26]

Hello all. I've been putting off replacing the pots, switch, and output jack on my old Epi Sheraton II, but I think it's finally time to dive into the project.

In the interest of making it as easy as possible on myself, I was wondering if anybody here knows what size/type of pots, switch, and jack I have to use so I don't have to enlarge any of the mounting holes.

The stock switch is a crappy enclosed type and the pots are dime sized metric units (I think).

Would I be OK with a standard Switchcraft jack, a short style LP 3 way, and some Bourns short shaft 500k dime sized pots?

I'll be wiring up some TV Jones 'trons, if it makes any difference.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Aceman]

No...however some wisdom on this:

#1 String up the whole kit: Pots, pickups, switch, jack. Label the rope/color code.
#2 Remove them through the pickup holes
#3 Replace & Wire everything outside, reattach appropriate rope as you do this

Do not skimp on string
Plan on spending the whole day doing nothing but this
Take your time.

More deep knowledge: Pay someone. I draw the line at Semi Hollow.

 

[GuitarStv]

I've re-wired my Epiphone Dot three times. For whatever reason, the epi dot I've got does not have enough space in the pickup holes . . . so you're going through the f-holes. I found it easiest to cut a piece of cardboard and solder everything up outside of the guitar, do basic testing, then fish it all through.

Tape around the f-holes with some masking tape to prevent scratches as your pulling cables and string in and out of them. Pull the components and measure the length of the threads on everything BEFORE you fish them all through the guitar and then realize that they almost but don't quite reach long enough to thread the nut on (fuck that's annoying).

Expect that things will take longer than you expect. It's doable, but you want to be able to walk away from it for a few hours when you start getting frustrated. : P

 

[Benjy_26]

I've re-wired my Epiphone Dot three times. For whatever reason, the epi dot I've got does not have enough space in the pickup holes . . . so you're going through the f-holes. I found it easiest to cut a piece of cardboard and solder everything up outside of the guitar, do basic testing, then fish it all through.

Tape around the f-holes with some masking tape to prevent scratches as your pulling cables and string in and out of them. Pull the components and measure the length of the threads on everything BEFORE you fish them all through the guitar and then realize that they almost but don't quite reach long enough to thread the nut on (**** that's annoying).

Expect that things will take longer than you expect. It's doable, but you want to be able to walk away from it for a few hours when you start getting frustrated. : P

What components did you use to replace the originals?

 

[GuitarStv]

What components did you use to replace the originals?

At one point in the past I wired up coil splitting and parallel reverse with some Bournes push-pull pots . . . would not recommend though. It was a very tight fit, there were a lot of wires hanging around, and I had to fish the components into place three different times because I kept breaking connections or accidentally bridging something while jamming it all back in. Then it turned out that I didn't use the different sound options very much anyway.

Most recently I replaced the original switch and jack with switchcraft ones, and the pots with CTS long shaft. This required drilling the holes for the pots slightly larger, which I used a hand drill with a sharp bit for.

 

[Mincer]

I am re-wiring a Howard Roberts, and I've re-done the harness, and slowly thinking that I am not the person to get it into the guitar.

I put Bourns pots, Switchcraft short switch and jack, and non-aged Antiquities.

 

[Benjy_26]

At one point in the past I wired up coil splitting and parallel reverse with some Bournes push-pull pots . . . would not recommend though. It was a very tight fit, there were a lot of wires hanging around, and I had to fish the components into place three different times because I kept breaking connections or accidentally bridging something while jamming it all back in. Then it turned out that I didn't use the different sound options very much anyway.

Most recently I replaced the original switch and jack with switchcraft ones, and the pots with CTS long shaft. This required drilling the holes for the pots slightly larger, which I used a hand drill with a sharp bit for.

I'll probably just get long shaft metric pots, then. I don't really do fancy wiring on Gibson style guitars anymore.