How much difference do new POTS make?

Spirit of 76

New member
Currently running stock POTS on an Epiphone LP with WLH pickup set....sounds good. But would better quality POTS make a minimal difference or a huge difference?

I am not playing shows; just playing at home through a 20W Orange Crush amp...if the difference is huge, I'd do it...if minimal, I don't know that it's worth it.

Opinions?
 
Epiphone puts pretty good pots in their guitars these days. If it's a model made in the last 5-10 years or so, I say leave them alone. They should be full-size Alpha pots. I've used those with great results. In fact, my SG Jr still has the same Alpha pots installed in 2011.

The tolerance can have an impact as well but not so much that you really hear it, unless you go from +/- 20% to +/- 5%, then you might hear a little difference but the values would need be far apart as well. You could have a +/- 20% 500K measure 490K and a +/- 5% 500K measure 498K and you won't hear a difference.
 
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I don't take out perfectly working parts. I might change pots if they don't turn easily enough (I use mine a lot) or if they are simply not working. Most of the time they just stay there.
 
Whille i agree with the guys, I'd make a small amendemt to the above. The pot values are "nominal" with a certain amount of tolerance. I've had 500k cts pots measuring 430k and Seymour Duncan branded ones measuring 509k . That swap did make a difference! But if they measure the same, then there will be no difference, assuming both are installed with the same quality of solderjoint. ;) On a sidenote I've had the best experience with the SD branded pots: each one was within +/-3% of the nominal value, while the others were all over the place, usually below 500k.
 
Like the others said, I don't change controls to get more 'quality.' The only thing I am concerned about is the resistance as measured, the taper, and a smooth turn.
 
I dislike the feeling of the 1/2" pots in cheap guitars. The worst part is when the feeling is inconsistent on each control.

A lot of pots have poor tolerance, so its like a lucky-dip.. Often I bought twice as many pots as I needed and selectively installed the ones that were close to the spec I wanted.
 
Different values or different taper will make a difference in sound in usage only. Different quality will only affect the lifetime of a pot component, and as mentioned before, the tolerance, which is also covered by my first point about different values.
 
You've got actual (i.e. measured) value, taper, and quality to worry about. Quality is mostly about how long they'll last working as intended.

How do you know when a pot isn't good quality? When it don't work. Until that point, it's "quality" enough.

The point I'm trying to make is: Don't "fix" stuff that ain't broken. Unless you wish to change value or taper, or a pot is crapping out, leave them in place.
 
Pots can make a huge difference when you start changing values and caps. I am fairly particular. If everything "feels" right - (meaning they all turn and feel the same) I am usually fine with them if they are a quality product. I will then typically only change them as needed. If they don't turn the same from one to the other I typically replace them all. If I am replacing pickups and the guitar has been around a while I typically replace them with the pickups swap.
 
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I didn't change the POTS when I changed pickups on my LP because they worked just fine, but since I don't have a guitar tech's experience/knowledge, I kept wondering if it would have improved the sound a lot if I had changed them.

I also assumed that a SD or better branded POT would work better than a stock Epiphone POT but didn't want to invest in it if the sound difference was minimal.

Sounds like the consensus is that it won't make a big difference and really no need to fix it if it's not broken, which I can agree with since I'm not performing and just playing for fun at home.

But I do like and appreciate hearing from all of you with more tech knowledge; it's giving me a much better understanding of the instrument and it's components outside of just playing it.
 
I didn't change the POTS when I changed pickups on my LP because they worked just fine, but since I don't have a guitar tech's experience/knowledge, I kept wondering if it would have improved the sound a lot if I had changed them.

I also assumed that a SD or better branded POT would work better than a stock Epiphone POT but didn't want to invest in it if the sound difference was minimal.

Sounds like the consensus is that it won't make a big difference and really no need to fix it if it's not broken, which I can agree with since I'm not performing and just playing for fun at home.

But I do like and appreciate hearing from all of you with more tech knowledge; it's giving me a much better understanding of the instrument and it's components outside of just playing it.

Well, it is natural to think that swapping out parts with aftermarket ones will be an improvement on tone. I mean, for years, people swapped out parts on cars or bikes for a .1% difference in speed. But here, I think we have to look at how you use those knobs. If you constantly do the Eddie Van Halen/Steve Morse swelling volume (and tone) pot thing, I can see you needing a more specialized part. If not, then don't worry about it.
 
There is a quality difference, but not in the way it may matter. As mentioned, the life of the pot is one thing and the smoothness or feel is another. The tolerance to me is not much of a quality thing. The pots are made and the manufacturer provides a tolerance. 99% of the pots that are sold will be within that tolerance spec. Whether you can hear the difference between a 500k and a 460k pot is the big Q mark. I can certainly hear the difference between a 250k and a 500k pot, but I don't think I could sit there in a blind test and hear a 50k difference either way with either pot. I have trained ears, slightly above average hearing ( for my age ), and am an audio engineer, so if I don't hear an appreciable change, then it is really not worth fretting about.

Now, where I do feel makes the quality of a pot more evident is the taper consistency. Most pots taper really smoothly and well enough for about 2/3rds of their sweep. It is the last little 1/3rd between 0 and 3 that is where the quality can really be noticed. Some pots have an abrupt cutoff or a rough and unpredictable taper that just makes using that last 1/3rd very cumbersome. Not many guitarists use that portion of the pot though. To mute the guitar many will turn the dial to zero, but for most guitarists, the zone from full-on down to around what would be 3 on the dial is about all this is really used.

I use CTS pots for my guitar and amp builds, as I find them to be the smoothest you can get over the entire sweep of the pot. For amplifiers, that first 1/3rd of the pot between 0 and 3 is the most important area, and Alpha pots for me seemed to have an issue in that realm. CTS on the other hand is great all around. Probably a little stiff for most guitarists, as they seem to use some thicker grease, which is probably why Alpha is more popular for guitar use, the pots turn easily and smoothly enough. I actually use the whole range of the pot because I prefer linear taper pots for my volume controls in guitars.

Linear vs. Audio taper..... I like linear taper because it allows for larger resolution between full-on and dialed back a bit. You have to use roughly 3/4 of the pot to get the same volume change as an Audio taper pot does in 1/3rd of its rotation. With a linear pot, the last little 1/4th of rotation works just as an Audio taper pot would when it is full-on. I like the resolution ( ability to dial in precisely ) linear taper pots have when used as an actual volume control. There are some Audio taper pots that are not as aggressive in taper and work really well, but I have not been able to source them and it seems to be a crap shot. YMMV of course. For me, I like linear taper because I know it will do what I want every time.
 
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