shadowfire90
New member
Re: HSS split coil with mini switch or tone blend
A pot is a pot as long as it reads close to the specified values is a big money saver. Maybe we get more durability out of CTS or a better gamble with going name brand but either way..
question 1 - for which tone controls
it's the standard Fender type. Neck first , middle near the input jack.
the reason why is the "Autosplit" mod doing 50s wiring and a lot of other really cool mods is impossible without adding more switches. Such as mini toggles. The reason is the right side of the switch is needed to make the bridge pickup hum cancelling in position 2. If hum doesn't bother you this becomes a lot easier.
question 2 - keep everything the way it is in the latest diagram
question 3 - As long as your DPDT is a standard on/on and not momentary you'll have no issues
You'll know it's a momentary a mile away because it'll automatically return to position 1 of 2 if that makes sense
The good news is DPDT ON/ON are the most common type of mini toggle switches you usually see in guitars. Plenty of well documented mods. DPDT ON/ON/ON and ON/OFF/ON are rare in guitars
question 4 - which capacitors
if you can use the standard ones in your guitar go for it. If you need an extra capacitor use what was originally in the guitar or try something like even polyester 0.022uf tone capacitors.
here's my thought process with capacitors when modifying one of my own guitars. Quick everyone re-re-read over this and look for ways to pick measure! .. but seriously. Capacitors are like string or shoe sizes. The larger the NF in this case as it's an easier number to grasp the more extreme the effects will be.
if you like the sound of the guitar keep what is in there. Same goes for potentiometer values. If you want to do some tone chasing. Tayda2009 on ebay I highly suggest. They are based in Thailand but I've never had an issue with them in 5+ years for all my capacitors and other components they stock needs.
if you want a brighter sound with less compression go with a smaller valued capacitor such as 0.01uf (10nf)
turning the tone control towards 0 (fully on) you'll get less of an effect as it's a smaller capacitor value. If you put them side by side they'll be smaller too
want a warmer tone with more compression go with a higher valued capacitor such as 0.033uf (33nf) , 0.047uf (47nf) to the most extreme being 0.1uf (100nf).
turning the tone control towards 0 ..same as before fully on. This case since it's a larger capacitor you'll get a stronger effect. 100nf was what was used in 1950s to mid 60s Fender guitars.
now how extreme the difference at 10 (off) is depends on how extreme the jump from capacitor values. I mean going 100nf to 10nf will be night and day but capacitors are dirt cheap. That thought process you'll never buy another high end capacitor again whether it be USSR surplus to paper in snake oil. I love saying that joke. It's like the Easter bunny or Santa Clause I wanted to believe in it more than anyone. Strings, picks and adjusting pickups pole pieces and height make differences too.
A pot is a pot as long as it reads close to the specified values is a big money saver. Maybe we get more durability out of CTS or a better gamble with going name brand but either way..
question 1 - for which tone controls
it's the standard Fender type. Neck first , middle near the input jack.
the reason why is the "Autosplit" mod doing 50s wiring and a lot of other really cool mods is impossible without adding more switches. Such as mini toggles. The reason is the right side of the switch is needed to make the bridge pickup hum cancelling in position 2. If hum doesn't bother you this becomes a lot easier.
question 2 - keep everything the way it is in the latest diagram
question 3 - As long as your DPDT is a standard on/on and not momentary you'll have no issues
You'll know it's a momentary a mile away because it'll automatically return to position 1 of 2 if that makes sense
The good news is DPDT ON/ON are the most common type of mini toggle switches you usually see in guitars. Plenty of well documented mods. DPDT ON/ON/ON and ON/OFF/ON are rare in guitars
question 4 - which capacitors
if you can use the standard ones in your guitar go for it. If you need an extra capacitor use what was originally in the guitar or try something like even polyester 0.022uf tone capacitors.
here's my thought process with capacitors when modifying one of my own guitars. Quick everyone re-re-read over this and look for ways to pick measure! .. but seriously. Capacitors are like string or shoe sizes. The larger the NF in this case as it's an easier number to grasp the more extreme the effects will be.
if you like the sound of the guitar keep what is in there. Same goes for potentiometer values. If you want to do some tone chasing. Tayda2009 on ebay I highly suggest. They are based in Thailand but I've never had an issue with them in 5+ years for all my capacitors and other components they stock needs.
if you want a brighter sound with less compression go with a smaller valued capacitor such as 0.01uf (10nf)
turning the tone control towards 0 (fully on) you'll get less of an effect as it's a smaller capacitor value. If you put them side by side they'll be smaller too
want a warmer tone with more compression go with a higher valued capacitor such as 0.033uf (33nf) , 0.047uf (47nf) to the most extreme being 0.1uf (100nf).
turning the tone control towards 0 ..same as before fully on. This case since it's a larger capacitor you'll get a stronger effect. 100nf was what was used in 1950s to mid 60s Fender guitars.
now how extreme the difference at 10 (off) is depends on how extreme the jump from capacitor values. I mean going 100nf to 10nf will be night and day but capacitors are dirt cheap. That thought process you'll never buy another high end capacitor again whether it be USSR surplus to paper in snake oil. I love saying that joke. It's like the Easter bunny or Santa Clause I wanted to believe in it more than anyone. Strings, picks and adjusting pickups pole pieces and height make differences too.
