Re: IS THIS OK: plug a guitar through a bass head, into a guitar cab.
cool guys, the Gallien mb200 bass head and the Quilter guitar head both handle anything you throw at them, i.e. 4ohm, 8ohm, 16ohm. the Quilter scales wattage and I am in one band and play guitar in it so I plan on getting the guitar head over the bass head.
I play an Orange thunderverb 50 (50 watter) into 2 of the Orange 212PPC cabs. If one tube blows, does my entire amp shut down? I dont know how to change tubes or trouble shoot to find detect this problem, so maybe it is crucial that I have a backup amp. other backup amps I am considering: Orange Micro Terror, EHX Magnum .44, Orange CR120(maybe too big), maybe a Hovercraft Dwarvenaut but that is an expensive fragile tube amp.
I might make another thread out of this when I try to take a photo of the guts of the amp.
I plan to stay away from plugging in a bass amp and I might get that quilter if I save up in a month or two. I need more power than an orange micro terror. bass amps seem to be a bad idea, I am concerned about my guitar cab rated at 120 watts
I think that with my 16 ohm cab, there may be issues with the Gallien mb200 bass amp. The quilter definitely is not intuitive and DOUBLES power with 16 ohms. I am worried about the quilter 100 watt setting now...Ill call quilter with my concerns. Here is what folks on the forum reported back:
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/quilter-tone-block-with-16-ohm-cab.1632580/
i recently purchased a Quilter Tone Block 200 as an experiment in SS, and as a lightweight backup head in case one of my precious tube amps dies at a gig. The TB wants to run into 8 or 4 ohms, but most of my cabinets are 16 ohm. I contacted the company, and they informed me that running 16 ohms is fine but that the power wattage out to the speaker will be about double from running an 8 ohm cab. So that means that you'll be seeing about 80 watts out when you set the master on the 40 watt setting IF you are using a 16 ohm cabinet.
Ok, it does make sense to me .
Earlier I wrote the standard answer, which applies to 98% SS amps out there (the "normal" ones).
There is one SS amp design when Quilter answer is true, and that is that they limit power amp output by limiting power amp *current* to a preset maximum level, instead of conventional *voltage* limiting/clipping.
Or: they limit voltage, (say, a couple clipping diodes), then they feed that to a constant current power amp.
Both amount to the same end result.
Which is easy to calculate:
P=I squared * R so I=sqrt(P/R)
I=sqrt (40W/8 ohms)= sqrt 5 A = 2.24 A RMS which in practice means setting the limiter to 3.16A which would be the current peak .
Call it 3.2A limit and we're fine
That very same current setting will provide exactly twice that power into 16 ohms:
2.24A*2.24A*16ohms=5*16W=80W <-- in this case we used RMS values
Same result if we used peak values , we'd get 160W peak, which again translates to 80W RMS .
That said, the "power doubling with impedance doubling" effect will stay while we are still *within* the rated amp power, which seems to be 200W into 8 ohms (or 100W into 16 ohms) .
So the 40W setting will translate into effective 80W into 16 ohms, but, say, a 120W setting (into 8 ohms) will not translate into 240W into 16 ohms and so on.
Not a defect, quite the contrary, simply that load would be asking for a peak voltage beyond what is available at the Power Supply.
That said, a very clever design.
And I bet there must be a dozen other cool design tricks under the hood, that's for sure
