JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Soulcrusher_X

New member
A buddy of mine has a Jet City JCA50H that suffered a failed PT. He managed to get a great deal on a Mercury Magnetics PT, so I took it to my workbench to plop it in. It wasn't a direct bolt-in deal, but we went over the issue with Mercury and they will be making accommodations for the future units. I will explain the whole thing in this write up.

Here is the patient:



So I replaced this:



With this:



Now, here's where I ran into problems. The mounting feet that are supplied with the MM unit are not even CLOSE to where they should be. Hopefully the pic is clear enough that you can see the right foot is lined up with the bolt hole, and the left one is 1/8"-1/4" off.



My buddy and I both contacted Mercury about this issue, and they said they would be able to send brackets with an inward offset to correct the issue. I however, came up with another idea......

The endbells are fairly similar in size. In fact, the bolt pattern of the EI core is the same dimension.



The guts of the MM unit are a lot beefier than the JCA unit, but all I needed to do was make some spacers with the old MM mounting brackets by cutting the 'L' feet off.



Then, install them on the PT core, like this:



Then bolt the JCA endbells on like this:



Then, bolt it to the chassis like this:



The chassis mounting bolts are a bit tight, and MAY need a hair of grinding if anyone does this swap before the newer brackets are released. OR, maybe you just want something that looks stock and stealth. ;)

Next is wiring!
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Now to the wiring:



Here's the layout for the PT:

Primary one:
Black: 0v
White/yellow: 100v
Red/black: 120v

Primary two:
Black/white: 0v
White/orange: 100v
Red/white: 120v

The JCA PT has a similar layout.

Primary one:
Black: 0v
White: 100v
Red: 120v

Primary two:
Blue: 0v
White: 100v
Brown: 120v

Here is the voltage selector with some wire remaining:



If you want to hook it up completely stock, then the white/orange and white/yellow wires from the MM unit will be installed where the white wires from the primary of the PT go to. Doesn't matter which one goes where, they aren't connected to anything. They are "floating" leads and the small board is a good anchor for them, rather than just cutting/sealing them and having them hang around inside the chassis.

The wires go like this for stock configuration:

JCA PT----->-----MM PT
Black--------------Black
Red----------------Red/Black
Blue---------------Black/White
Brown-------------Red/White
White-------------White/Yellow
White-------------White/Orange

Otherwise, just follow the wiring scheme from Mercury. In this case, the amp doesn't have a passport for travel, and will remain in the states. So, the white/tracer wires were "floated" on the switch board in the stock locations. Then, the two red primary wires were soldered to one switch terminal and the black primary wires were soldered to the other switch terminal. Oh! And be careful to solder the primary leads to the terminals facing INTO the the chassis. I used those terminals for the 120v hookup and the light in the switch stays on permanently. I need to hook them up in reverse. :D OOps. So, 120v leads from the fuse block go on the terminals that face the bottom of the amp.

After that, the 6.3v heater tap, 12v switching tap, center taps, HT taps and bias tap can all be soldered up.

Like this:





So you can also note: the switch on the right is the power switch. The visible terminals are where the black and white wires from the IEC socket SHOULD go. Otherwise, the power light just stays illuminated, switch on or off. So, I need to switch those. lol

Also, the MM PT is stout enough to be able to have some 6550s punish your speakers.



Later, I'll be doing the SLO mod, and maybe I'll try and embarrass myself by posting some clips. I PROMISE I'll practice before recording.
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Okay, here's few crappy clips (I forgot to practice :()with my Nikon camera, both of 6L6s and with 6550s. Left all the knobs where they were for all clips to get a raw comparison. Clips were done on the OD channel, gain at 5, TMB and presence at 5.....mids might be a little higher...6...maybe, and volume at roughly 2~ish. Bias on the 6L6s is about 35mA, bias on the 6550s is about 45mA. Cab is a stock PV 5150 cab, guitar is a Les Paul Custom with Duncan Seth Lovers. Standard tuning. Nothing fancy. This is BEFORE the SLO mod.

NOTE: NO modifications was done to the Screen Grid resistors. In order to run tubes OTHER than 6L6s, some modifications must be done to the SGs in order to expect any kind of longevity of the power tubes. This is just for a raw comparison.

Test with JJ 6L6s:

 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Test 2 with TungSol 6550s:


A dollar to whomever can name the Sabbath song that I was butchering. ;)
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Nice job! Have you tested it out yet to hear the tone difference?

Edit: you beat me to it.
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

I didn't hear it stock, because the PT had failed. The 6550s are definitely fuller than the 6L6s and they have a little grit on the top end. I love 6550s anyway. lol Hopefully, the difference can be heard in the clips.
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Yeah, it can. I like the 6550s a lot better, man. Have you done the SLO mod yet? And what do you think of the amp?
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Was that supposed to be the speed metal version of into the void?
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

ohhhhooooo I saw your thread on GAB. nice work dude. :headbang:
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Yeah, it can. I like the 6550s a lot better, man. Have you done the SLO mod yet? And what do you think of the amp?

I finished the SLO mod up last night and I'm going to try and make some clips when I get home from work. These amps are pretty easy to work on, but a lot of the components look a bit sub-standard. Some of the workmanship could be better. I still cannot figure out why they didn't put a channel bypass switch on the front panel, though it IS an easy mod. I don't know if this amp had been to a tech for a repair already, but the filter cap for the switching supply had lifted from the board. I'm thinking that was a partial reason why the PT failed, but who knows. It looked like the "new" cap had been soldered to the leads of the OLD cap which were clipped off. Hackery at it's finest.

Overall, it's a solid platform for mods, and they do sound really good out of the box. I have heard once or twice that they aren't as loud as you would think from a 50 or even 100 watt head, though I haven't really cranked it yet to find out. For the price that these things go for used, they are a really good deal. I'm considering buying one for myself at some point to hack up and see what I can do with it.

When I give this amp back to the owner, he'll be giving me his 22H to borrow for a while and come up with some mods, so I'll be swimming in JCA stuff for a while.
 
Re: JCA50H Mercury Magnetics PT install

Okay, so I did the SLO mod, FX loop level mod and change the slope resistor from 47k to 39k on this thing a few days ago, and just got time to get it kinda loud. This thing is a monster. I should have recorded it. Even with the amount of finger rust I have, it still sounded phenomenal. The gain knob on the OD channel is usable for the whole sweep. I didn't change the gain pot, but it's still a noticeable difference. The string separation is improved, the gain has a bit more of an open grind to it and more 3d quality. The change from 6L6s to 6550s is a lot more noticable with the mods. The slope resistor change may have also helped, but with the added grind in the mids/upper-mids that the 6550s added, the JCA took on a little bit of Marshall flavor. The presence knob does a LOT for the tone/feel of the amp. Keep in mind I was using my LP with the Seth Lovers, so they may be letting the amp do more of the work, and letting the knobs actually have influence over more of the tone rather than slamming the input of the amp with a high-output bucker.

Also, I have heard from a lot of JCA50/100 owners that they did NOT like the way the FX loop level drop mod changed the tone. Most replies were that the tone of the amp because boxy and stiff. In my last SLO clone, I did not notice a severe change in playability when I did the mod, and after tonight, I'm almost certain that the mod just takes to the SLO circuit values better than the JCA/Soldano Hotrod values.

Regardless, if any JCA50/100 owners 'like' their amps, I encourage them to try the SLO mod and slope resistor mod.
 
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