Keeping Vintage Trem in Tune--Dry PTFE Lube?

Liquids

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This is an commonly discussed topic, probably as many opinions (and good options) as there are players...

In the last year or so I took to tasteful use of tremolo on my guitars, and I'm pretty hooked on tasteful use of the trem bar for phasing now (think Jeff Beck).

My main guitar was a 335-style (still love it), but my 10+ year old strat-style, and now an additional strat style guitar are seeing most of the playing time--in part because of trem.

Too much trem use just gets annoying to listen to IMO, but I'm learning how useful it can be, especially in conjunction with my ususal useof bends (pitch up) and vibrato. Pitch down (trem) adds a third element of phrasing for that vocal/slide guitar like quality with a 'sound' all it's own that goes well with the aforementioned two and other phrasing techniques.

I was theoretically a firm believer in graphite--even in the nut slots of my 335 because, why not...even the well respected local guitar repair guy said he used graphite. It's kind of hard to ensure consistent results with pencil lead and such though. I didn't use the trem at all before either, so even when not blocked off, I rarely had trouble staying in tune.

Most of the trem issues seem to be at the nut/string tree after some research and experience. I'm lefty, so roller nuts are basically not an option for me from what I've seen...

For another non-guitar project I stumbled on a "dry" 'PTFE' based bicycle product as a lube that doesn't gum up or attract dirt/dust/etc. A little searching showed that some guys tried it for guitar. Since I had it on hand I've given it a shot in the nut slots, string trees, and around vintage trem bridge screws. Before it was pretty consistently landing out of tune and needing a 'yank' on the bar to pull it back in tune, at best. But I've virtually forgotten that using the trem might cause tuning issues by now after starting to use this kind of stuff!

It's awesome not to need any mods, extra parts, etc. to have solved the problem on your "regular" strat style guitar if this stuff continues to prove reliable. Apparently many manufacturers make similar products, but the one I have is called "finish line dry." However I'm not saying one brand vs another--I was originally looking for a different brand product of "dry PTFE" based product when I called a bike shop looking for it (again, not for guitar but for another project) and that is the one they had, though most of the PTFE dry lubricants will be similar or the same regardless of brand said the bike shop. That is just the one they had. Bottles are available cheap on amazon. It was a great find!

Now, I say "dry" with quotations, because the way the product works is, it applies like it's wet, but quickly dries up, and the PTFE and a soft waxy portion remain...so it's wet on application but doesn't get gummy, and easier to apply than graphite shavings by far. At first I thought something was wrong, or I read about guys using it for guitar advocating "dry" products. It's dry--after a few minutes. Application is "wet" though, so easy to be confused.

Anyone else try this sort of thing for trem guitars? What "products" do most of you guys who don't block off your strat-trems but use the trem bar utilize? Anyone try one of these and have bad experience or experience no difference? I'm curious as to what the array of opinions and products used might be around here.
 
Re: Keeping Vintage Trem in Tune--Dry PTFE Lube?

That stuff sounds like it might work well...even though the post reads like well-disguised spam! ;)

But if lubrication makes THAT MUCH of a difference, then something else is wrong. Lubrication comes after properly installed strings, a properly made nut, and a high quality bridge in importance. It's like the final 10 percent after those two things take care of the other 90 percent. Using lubrication without taking care of those other things is like installing a new set of spark plugs on an engine with bad valve seats and worn piston rings, hoping that it will fix the engine's poor performance.

IMO/IME, graphite is one of the best lubricants for this purpose – much better than anything "waxy" or oily (e.g. some people swear by Chapstick), because graphite is super thin, super dry, long lasting, and a truly outstanding lubricant in terms of performance. But pencil lead is not really graphite, primarily. It's cakey, and over time, it can actually makes the nut slots bind more. Not to mention that it's a bit messy and hard to apply in the right spots sometimes. The best stuff I have found for this purpose is powdered graphite mixed into some sort of base that evaporates out after precise application. That product in one form is called NeoLube No. 2. I first found out about it in the U.S. Navy, where we used it for lubricating valve caps and other components in the power plant. (I remember that, "colloidal graphite suspended in 2-propanol alcohol," is how we were forced to "officially" describe it on exams.) It has every advantage of graphite, but it applies as easily as model paint.
 
Re: Keeping Vintage Trem in Tune--Dry PTFE Lube?

I use the Big Bend's Nut Sauce in the nut slots. My G&Ls use Graph-Tech string trees, and occasionally I'll use it there. On some guitars, a tiny dab under the string where it crosses the saddle. I've also used lube on the vibrato springs where they loop around the claw. Sometimes wiping the strings with WD-40, or Tri-Flow can help. And occasionally I'll use a shot of Tri-Flow on the bridge posts and the knife edge of the bridge plate. And I ALWAYS keep the backplane on. It's best to minimize any dirt, dust, etc. around that area.

The G&L's Dual Fulcrum Vibrato is one of Leo Fender's greatest designs. Most of the time only minimal maintenance and lube is required. My G&Ls always seemed to be more stable than my buddies' Kahlers and Floyds. The Big Bend's is a big part of my Vibrato maintenance.

Bill
 
Re: Keeping Vintage Trem in Tune--Dry PTFE Lube?

ItsaBass is right on. Make a slurry of powdered graphite with alcohol (or other solvent which totally evaporates away). Then just "paint" it on wherever it's need with a fine artist's paint brush. Easy, quick, accurate, and not messy.
 
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