LP bridge

TS2

New member
I'm looking for a good replacement bridge to my old 94 Epi LP. I was having very bad buzzing on the first string from the 3rd to 7th fret, and at first i thought the neck was twisted and all hope was lost, but then I looked closely at the TOM bridge and noticed it looked misshaped. I reversed the bridge to find that now the 1st string sounds good, but the 6th string has a minor buzz. Major problem found... Question is, do I get the exact replacement..which looks cheap, or an upgraded version? I see nashvilles and tp-6 styles, and also other brands besides Gibson. So, which is the way to go? Thanks.
 
Re: LP bridge

id upgrade to tonepros locking bridge. just make sure you get the one that is spaced for import models otherwise you are gonna have to fill and redrill the bridge mounting holes which just aint worth it.

im pretty sure tonepros make an import spaced one
 
Re: LP bridge

I would just forget buying a generic replacement. And while Tone Pros prob. has the best Metric replacement around. I would recommend you get the standard Gotoh Metric Bridge.

The Gotoh is the exact bridge TP uses minues the 2 locking allen screws and its $20 vs the TP which is $60.

I have one on my Agile and The TP on my SG and they are indeed exactly the same. just the TP has 2 suck allen screws that secure the bridge to the posts.

This one should be perfect:

Ebay Link!
 
Re: LP bridge

Not usually...I have not seen Black Gotoh Bridges in quite some time. But there are TPs in black in stock everywhere.
 
Re: LP bridge

+1 for the tone pros bridge. They come in metric sizes and you can get them pre-slotted. If you've got the $$ I'd even recommend the graphtech saddles.
 
Re: LP bridge

Well...playing the guitar last night I think the neck might still be slightly twisted...so I am going to take it somewhere first to see if putting money into it is worthwhile. I hope it is because even though it's a cheap guitar, it was my first real guitar, so there's that sentimental value added to it... The neck is bolt-on, so there's always that route, but most of the necks I've seen run for more than what I payed for the guitar...and it wouldn't be the same.
 
Re: LP bridge

So for those of you that upgraded bridges, did it make a noticeable difference in terms of playability and or tone? I've got an agile and an epi both with the stock bridges. Both are pretty nice guitars with upgraded electronics/pups and wonder if new hardware would be a worthwhile upgrade. I don't really have intonation or tuning issues with either axe, so I dunno if it's even worth the hassle.
 
Re: LP bridge

The Protones are the same thing as the Gotohs. Not worth the money if you ask me, you can brace the bridge by other means.

Both are good, though.
 
Re: LP bridge

So for those of you that upgraded bridges, did it make a noticeable difference in terms of playability and or tone? I've got an agile and an epi both with the stock bridges. Both are pretty nice guitars with upgraded electronics/pups and wonder if new hardware would be a worthwhile upgrade. I don't really have intonation or tuning issues with either axe, so I dunno if it's even worth the hassle.

if you arent having any issues then i wouldnt bother. I dont doubt it would make it a better guitar, but would it be worth the money for the slight improvement over something you arent really having problems with? thats your call.

if on the other hand your bridge is broken or not fucntioning right, then i think its worth the money to upgrade to something that will not have any problems with anymore.
 
Re: LP bridge

if you arent having any issues then i wouldnt bother. I dont doubt it would make it a better guitar, but would it be worth the money for the slight improvement over something you arent really having problems with? thats your call.

if on the other hand your bridge is broken or not fucntioning right, then i think its worth the money to upgrade to something that will not have any problems with anymore.

Thanks, that's kinda what I was thinking. The epi is a really nice sounding and playing guitar, esp for an import. I've upgraded a lot of stuff, the pups, electronics, nut and tuners, so the bridge would be the last thing if I did any more. I guess I can use that money to have the frets re-crowned and leveled.
 
Re: LP bridge

I got a huge improvement out of my Chinese LP when I mounted a metric Gotoh. I'd rather live with the original pickups than the original bridge.
 
Re: LP bridge

I got a huge improvement out of my Chinese LP when I mounted a metric Gotoh. I'd rather live with the original pickups than the original bridge.

Were you having problems with the original bridge tho? By probs I mean, bad intonation, buzzing, not keeping tune, stuff like that? Did the guitar play or sound better after the swap?
 
Re: LP bridge

Were you having problems with the original bridge tho? By probs I mean, bad intonation, buzzing, not keeping tune, stuff like that? Did the guitar play or sound better after the swap?

Some buzzing, yes, but then even my Protones has some buzzing (less of course). I don't think it's that simple.

Since I even kept all the posts and studs the whole thing must have been made in a way or from some material that was just eating up sound. That arc that a tone-o-matic forms has quite a bit of tension in there. Imagine one made of rubber. Now take into account how soft some "steels" are on that level where we are talking here.

Also compare with Strat tremolos where a sustain block made from a solid block of better metal is a huge improvement.
 
Re: LP bridge

This may sound WAY too obvious and you may have already checked, but....

Did you check your string height and neck relief? And did you check the string radius at the bridge to see if it is simply one saddle that is cut too low? All three of these are WAY more likely than a twisted neck, from my experience. Also Vintage TOM bridges have a retaining wire on top of the intonation screws and that wire can buzz sometimes, if its not a tight fit. You may already know all this, but it doesn't hurt to mention.
 
Re: LP bridge

Ok...this might sound like the stupidest question...but what do you mean by checking the neck relief? The retaining wire is crap though, I know that's one problem. I have not checked the string radius at the bridge though...what's the best way to do that?
 
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