My Roomba broke my guitars neck! Help wanted.

So there's probably no way you can compare and contrast but some of my buddies have sworn that their neck repaired guitars have more "umph" after they were repaired..

If true, maybe a miniscule increase in mass although that seems unlikely.
 
zionstrat said:
So there's probably no way you can compare and contrast but some of my buddies have sworn that their neck repaired guitars have more "umph" after they were repaired..

If true, maybe a miniscule increase in mass although that seems unlikely.
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I've heard people saying the exact same thing. Maybe it makes them feel better, or maybe it is real...I have no idea.
 
Awesome. Glad to see it's fixed. The case I had mine in that broke wasn't a good fit and partially why it broke. Sold the case and been using a gig bag but the guitar stays in the closet when not played. I want to find another hardshell for it but the neck angle is a lot shallower than a Gibson, 2.5 degrees vs 3.5 to 5 degrees on a Gibson, so it's been a challenge. A Junior case would probably work but dang, they are expensive.
 
ErikH said:
Awesome. Glad to see it's fixed. The case I had mine in that broke wasn't a good fit and partially why it broke. Sold the case and been using a gig bag but the guitar stays in the closet when not played. I want to find another hardshell for it but the neck angle is a lot shallower than a Gibson, 2.5 degrees vs 3.5 to 5 degrees on a Gibson, so it's been a challenge. A Junior case would probably work but dang, they are expensive.
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Gibson headstock angles are generally about 14 degrees.
 
Chris Pile said:
Titebond original squeeze out can be cleaned up with water. Most luthiers prefer it because it's repairable - something that is a long term consideration in instrument repair. Most traditions in luthiery came from violins which are taken apart regularly throughout their lives.

Titebond II is waterproof, and is not repairable. It has some usage for our concerns, but since it's more expensive - and many shops don't want to stock more adhesives than they need, original is preferred.

In my shop, original and hide glue are the most commonly used in guitar repair and fabrication. I use a variety of other adhesives as needed - CA glues, Duco Cement, etc. Leave Titebond II for the cabinet makers and so on.
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Just a couple facts:

Titebond ll is NOT "waterproof". It is somewhat water resistant but not waterproof at all.
Titebond lll is MORE "waterproof", but still should not be used for underwater use (it's not totally waterproof). Any of them can be cleaned up with a damp cloth before they are cured.
As far as strength of bond is concerned, Titebond lll is slightly stronger than Titebond ll which is stronger than Titebond l. All three of them are great for guitar building and repair...the difference in bond strength really doesn't make much difference. Titebond ll has a longer working time than Titebond l, and Titebond lll has a longer working time than Titebond ll.

Some woods used in guitar building (like Cocobolo) are oily and none of the Titebond glues are sufficient. Epoxy is best for oily woods.
 
We agree. Unfortunately, lots of dumbasses out there didn't get the memo. The evidence is on Squeebay or Treeverb often enough, and it crosses my bench more than I'd like. Of course, it costs even more to have it done the 2nd time, when the original fckup has to be dealt with.

Stupid should hurt.
 
GuitarDoc said:
Gibson headstock angles are generally about 14 degrees.
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Neck angle off the body, not headstock angle. The problem with the previous case I had it in was the neck laid down in the case with a slight upward angle towards the headstock so it was hitting the lid more than it should have. This is because of the shallower than Gibson neck angle. A Gibson or Epiphone SG would fit in the case perfectly fine and the neck would lay flat across the neck rest area.

Edit: Did some digging and it appears that the Gibson SG Junior neck angle is 2.5 degrees so my Precision Guitar Kits SG Jr is spot on. On with the case hunt. I don't want to spend a fortune on one that's for sure. Used is fine as well.
 
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Chris Pile said:
We agree. Unfortunately, lots of dumbasses out there didn't get the memo. The evidence is on Squeebay or Treeverb often enough, and it crosses my bench more than I'd like. Of course, it costs even more to have it done the 2nd time, when the original fckup has to be dealt with.

Stupid should hurt.
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I couldn't agree more.
 
trevorus said:
I saw a stew Mac video, and they were using titebond 3, and I was yelling at my screen. I only ever use original, or hide glue. The stuff in a bottle has stabilizers that actually weaken it, so the hot stuff is always better if you go that route. I've heard good things about fish glue, but since Titebond original is so good, why bother?
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Is that the one where the SG breaks at the body joint?
 
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