NGD: Double Trouble

Sirion

Well-known member
Okay, so I didn't buy these on the same day, but one led to the other, so I am posting them alongside each other.

Three weeks ago I ended up taking my chances on one of the new Kramers. As old-timers will know I love and have been known to collect old ones, but with a finite amount of time to spend on guitar I decided that I wanted to play rather than fiddle, and found that it would be nice to have a pseudo-beater guitar that I knew that I could rely on, but that I didn't have to be that careful with and that is likely to play without problem for a long time to come. So my attitude going in was that the audience is king. I could accept minor imperfections as long as I am the only one to notice, but no compomises were to be made regarding sound or playability.

As far as practical tools go, I think these are exactly what the doctor ordered. Of course they aren't as exquisite as the instruments ESP were making for Kramer 30-odd years ago, but as far as stage guitars go I maintain that there is no significant difference whatsoever between the classic guitars and these. They feel great and sound great. And, honestly speaking, they look great. Now, if you look it is obvious that the maple used in the necks isn't as nice as what was used in the originals, and there are minute imperfections in the graphic finishes, but they are small enough that you'd have to be an arse to complain about them: the audience will never notice.

Most important of all: the fret jobs are flawless, and there are no dead notes or dampened notes. The Floyd Rose 1000s are a bit less fluid than the originals, but they are the only "budget" FRs I'd trust (my experiences with the FR Special have been awful), and I doubt that I will bother shifting them unless they start malfunctioning. Most people will know how it sounds: it is a superstrat with a FR and a JB – 'nuff said.

In short, for a 1000€ guitar you can expect a fine mass-produced instrument that doesn't hold you back in any when it comes to playability or sound. Charvels and Ibanezes are ubiquitous around my parts, and I'd put the Kramers up against either dollar for dollar. Basically, they are good enough that I after getting the polka dot I ended up getting an aztec within a month. The necks feel slightly different, with the aztec feeling a hair beefier, but otherwise they are dashed near identical. If they release anything sufficiently cool in the future I would be happy to get a third one.

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(I changed the bridge humbucker from a JB to a Full Shred in the polka dot. After having A/B'ed the two I am considering switching back.)
 
Yo, way to transport oneself back to the mid-80s!

Yes, the Aztec (and holoflash) finish was kinda rare back in the day, the most common were the lightning and polka dot.
 
Nice. And they are shorter scale from the rest of the Kramer line too.

Yep. I would have expected to have some trouble adjusting to playing up by the 24th fret for this reason, and whilst I still have to woodshed to make sure that my scales across multiple strings are clean in the top positions I haven't experienced any major adjustment troubles so far.
 
Excellent grab(s).

24 3/4" (gibson scale). Mahogany body. Definitely some Gibson Les Paul influence (after all, Viv's main was a Les Paul and no doubt this was incorporated in the original design).

Some peeps are claiming that these new Nightswans sound better with a Full Shred in the bridge (the original config)...than the current 2x JB config.

AFA the Floyd 1000's go, if you decided to upgrade to an Original FR, the OFR studs fit perfectly in the F1000's stud holes in the body.

The F1000 nut, however, is not compatible with an OFR nut; screw holes are placed differently.
 
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I have seen/held/played an Original Nightswan (Aztec) in the past 5 years. Great guitar. I have played the newer ones too and concur. Great guitars.

I search/mark/watch the Aztec occasionally. Don't need one, but would really like one. Seems to be right in that Charvel pro zone. Quite a few guitars that are really good in the ~$800 zone these days.
 
Excellent grab(s).
Some peeps are claiming that these new Nightswans sound better with a Full Shred in the bridge (the original config)...than the current 2x JB config.

AFA the Floyd 1000's go, if you decided to upgrade to an Original FR, the OFR studs fit perfectly in the F1000's stud holes in the body.

The F1000 nut, however, is not compatible with an OFR nut; screw holes are placed differently.

I now have one with a JB in the bridge and one with a Full Shred. I am primarily playing through an ADA MP-1 into a Marshall solid state power amp, a Marshall SC20C and a Rockman X100 going direct these days (I have two really cool heads coming in soon!). With the ADA, the Full Shred comes to life; the two are just naturally pulling in the same direction.

I have had my suspicions regarding the F1000 nut, as it looked smaller and slimmer than the OFR to me. If it works that is fine, but it is a bit of a bummer still, and surely something FR must have done to limit interchangeability (which is a rather unsympathetic move in the best of cases). I had the same problem with a Floyd Rose Special some years back. Thankfully, whilst the Special is a system I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy, the F1000 works really well.
 
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I search/mark/watch the Aztec occasionally. Don't need one, but would really like one. Seems to be right in that Charvel pro zone. Quite a few guitars that are really good in the ~$800 zone these days.

It is, isn't it? That is what you realistically need to spend these days to get a 100% gigworthy guitar. Anything below 800$ is likely to have corners affecting playability and sound, and some will need significant work; once you get over 1100$ or so you are most likely paying for cosmetics, craftsmanship and features that don't really affect the sound of the guitar that much. I can dig that, and I own a custom-built Byrd Super Avianti that adjusted for inflation would probably be a 3000$ guitar today. There are Škodas and Rolls-Royces.

(I am of course only talking about electric solid-body guitars.)
 
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