nitro finish question

jake_xms3_punk

jake_xms3_punk

New member
I'm finishing a guitar in nitro. I put about 8 coats of colour on and about 3 coats or clear, I've left it cure or a bit and started to wetsand with 600 grit paper.
I think i've pretty much sanded through most of the clear coat so my question is could I just wet sand the whole thing and buff to a gloss with just the colour coat? I dont have any more clear spray (doing a neck and stuff too) and I dont want to wait another month or so for it to cure. so is it advisable ? I wouldn't mind a semi gloss/matte finish but do I still need the clear coat to seal the colour in? or would it be fine? sorry for the long post :D
 
Re: nitro finish question

What does it look like at this point? Can you possibly leave it as is? i.e. are you sure you took the clearcoat off?
 
Re: nitro finish question

If you're wet sanding, you'll know when you go through the clear because the slurry (the wet residue from the sanding) will turn from a whitish colour to the colour you sprayed the body.

You can have the colour without the clear. The differences will be .... with clear, general wear from use and polishing will not change the colour .... without clear, usage and polishing will start to remove the colour coats. Of course even with clear over the top, the clear will eventually wear away and then the colour coat will take the wear.

If you want to achieve a worn or subtle relic look quicker, forego the clear coats. If you want to maintain a new look for a longer period, apply a few fresh coats of clear.

BTW, if you're wet sanding, i assume you're using the black 'wet'n'dry' paper ... if that's correct, i strongly suggest using 1000 or 1200. 600 would be too coarse and will rip through the nitro too quickly, not to mention leaving deeper scratches that will then involve more sanding through the finer grades, meaning the removal of more of the precious finish.
 
Re: nitro finish question

Are you checking to see if you still have surface imperfections. Thats the only reason why you need to go that heavy with the paper. I'm just in the process of finishing a lacquer guitar and after a few coats I lightly sanded so that the next few coats would go on a smoother surface. Then all you need is some time with 800, then 1200 before you go to the polishing compound.
 
Re: nitro finish question

because I put on quite a heavy colour coat I was going to start with 600 and work my way up to about 1500 to get the scratches out and level everything. Ill try it with a finer grade and try buffing, if it doesn't look that good I'll shoot a few coats of clear over the top.
 
Re: nitro finish question

I can't tell anyone what they should do, but i strongly reccomend not using 600 wet'n'dry on paint unless you want to remove the paint .... particularly nitro, which is soft. And particularly on bodies with rounded edges. Start with 1000 if there's orange peel and take your time.

You have to remember that by starting with 600 or 800 you are removing more material, but it neccessitates using more grades of paper, each one removing more material. So starting coarse guarantees that you'll be removing a lot of the finish layer. Start with a finer grade and work lightly and slowly.
 
Re: nitro finish question

Crusty's thoughts about the wet 600 grit being too coarse mirror my own, just based on my experiences with plastic models. But I have never finished a nitro guitar, so I cannot say for sure what grits would work best.
 
Re: nitro finish question

cheers guys, I just sanded with 1000 grit and there are a few shiny spots, should I sand these out? can they be buffed out? is it like sanding sealer where the shiny spots are low spots?
 
Re: nitro finish question

I wouldn't be starting with 600, seems kinda coarse for paint/clear. I'd start with 1500 then work backwards if you need to (so you don't go too deep) then go back towards 1500 then to rubbing compound/buffing.
 
Re: nitro finish question

jake_xms3_punk said:
cheers guys, I just sanded with 1000 grit and there are a few shiny spots, should I sand these out? can they be buffed out? is it like sanding sealer where the shiny spots are low spots?
Click to expand...

Yup, if you started with a glossy surface, the shiny bits you can still see are low spots. It's up to you whether you want to sand them completely out or not .... the flatter you can get the surface, the better the finish you will be able to obtain. Try not to use the paper around your fingers, use a small flat block behind the paper. If you really have to use your fingers to work on small stubborn areas, work in circular patterns and don't apply much pressure, let the paper do the work.

(if you use the paper with your fingers and simply work back and forwards you will end up with 'channels' that will appear as waves once you polish the shine back).
 
Re: nitro finish question

What color?

The point about the clear coats is to bring gloss and depth.

That might not be what you want in the first place, in particular if you go for a old style Strat sunburst.
 
Re: nitro finish question

crusty philtrum said:
Yup, if you started with a glossy surface, the shiny bits you can still see are low spots. It's up to you whether you want to sand them completely out or not .... the flatter you can get the surface, the better the finish you will be able to obtain. Try not to use the paper around your fingers, use a small flat block behind the paper. If you really have to use your fingers to work on small stubborn areas, work in circular patterns and don't apply much pressure, let the paper do the work.

(if you use the paper with your fingers and simply work back and forwards you will end up with 'channels' that will appear as waves once you polish the shine back).
Click to expand...

+ 1 (million)
Use some kind of block.
 
Re: nitro finish question

Sand with the extremely fine paper that Crusty suggested until all the dimples are gone. They will look like crap through a polished finish.

I know the frustration of waiting for coats to dry, but my guess is that ultimately you will prefer the clear coat.
 
Re: nitro finish question

Sand it if the wood fibers came up and it feels 'fuzzy' (I guess?) if it feels smooth then rock on with the clear.
 
Re: nitro finish question

For a sanding block, which is HIGHLY recommended instead of just your fingers, use a rectangular sponge like a kitchen sponge. A hard/wood sanding block can cause gouges/scratches that are hard to sand out. Work up to 2000 grit before using polishing compound if you want a nice high gloss finish.
 
Re: nitro finish question

Yeah, no sanding with your fingers backing the sandpaper. Been there, sanded through that :)
 
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